yeah.. share with us and poison

he already post it few page back...

Okay here's some Photo's taken with Canon EOS 350D + Kit Lens + Nissin Speedlite Di622 + Lambency Diffuser Bounced up ceiling 90 degree up

potraits i will share with you guys a little after CNY





Some shots on my Dad's New Powershot G9







added one more



This post has been edited by sherren: Jan 29 2008, 09:40 PM

so sherren, what do u think about this flash?? suitable so nite event(outside)??

to be truth its as good as the 430ex the power, Recycle time is abit slow of course 4 seconds, doesnt matter for me
basicly you need good rechargeable batteries also . well nite event yea of course.

To take Note those pics i posted were taken at night

I update with you guys more when my bro come's back next tuesday , i take a comparision two shots one using nissin speedlite Di622 and another speedlite 430ex ill try each with Gary Fong's Lightsphere and Lambency

guys, anyone of you here tried the whale tail?

sherren, your photos is nice! no shadow. powarrr of flashgun. mind take some portraits and share ?

Thanks, well there is shadow for the Tea cups but still a nice picture

after CNY i share some , plan to use 50mm f1.8 II

er.. i want to ask u guys use sRGB or adobe RGB??

i use adobe RGB shoot the pic..when transfer to pc..the color got 20-30% is no match what i see from my DSLR lcd screen.. for example..the bg is light and little medium bron...when see in comp...it become medium green and medium brown.

so strange la...

hehe...seems flashgun session more poison..

yea im still hunting for BG E3
and still deciding which telephoto lens to get budget not so high rm 800 max telephoto

im curious of the difference between RGB ans sRGB, whats the diff?

there's lots of discussion about this matter on the net....google

me still doesnt understand also....kekekeke

This post has been edited by rogerwee: Jan 29 2008, 10:34 PM

those are really complicated, i dont get it, i would prefer straight forward answers, like which is better then which?


btw, what is 1st curtain sync and 2nd curtain sync? if i remember correctly if its curtain sync...

This post has been edited by wjie20: Jan 29 2008, 10:36 PM

how about sigma 70-300 APO DG?

canon 55-250 IS?

1st curtain sync is where the flash fires right after you press the shutter button or at the starting of the exposure. 2nd curtain sync is where the flash fires at the end of the exposure.

For example like when you're taking photos of a very slow moving vehicle with its lights on, if you set your shuttle speed to lets say 2 sec and 1st curtain flash sync, the flash fires right after u press the shutter button and this will results in a image of the vehicle with front tail lights.

While if you set it to 2nd curtain sync, the flash will fire at the end of the exposure after 2 sec, and the image you will get is the vehicle with the back tail lights.

Hope this helps, wjie20. =)

time to save for 55-250 IS

the pics not bad, hmm i'll consider either the nissin or sunpak, unless suddenly i got enough money for the 580ex II

uh Adobe RGB and sRGB right, all I know is Adobe RGB encompass more color than sRGB, but it's better to use sRGB though,

er... simple fact about these stuffs...

Adobe RGB has a wider, or you can put it "hidden" color range. Colors may looked pale when u see it on monitor. Thus its meant for more advanced editing. But mess up the colors then you'll have to start over again, so careful tweaking is needed.

Its the opposite for sRGB. Has so so color range, easy during editing but you wont get the most out of your photos. Colors are "richer" on the surface for sRGB, but you wont get the most out of it.

I use Adobe RGB, then convert them with a ProPhotoRGB profile in Lightroom. Because ProPhotoRGB gives me the best almost accurate colors when i print them out. And if I want to post the photos online. I'll just convert the color profile to sRGB using photoshop once I edited everything.

Things you must know when before you do editing. CALIBRATE your monitor. Spend a few hundred on calibrating hardwares like the Spider2express or newer versions. There's a good calibrating hardware like the Huey Pro too. Cost alot more than the Spider2express. Once you finished calibrating your computer, you get more accurate colors.

Note that the internet uses sRGB, so if you post a photo online with a AdobeRGB as the color profile. Then you'll face risk of losing the colors. Here's an example:

Sample A, Using AdobeRGB:


Sample B, Using sRGB:


So basicly:

#1: if you want to get the most out of your photos. Use AdobeRGB. It may look pale on your screen, but after a few adjustments, the colors are superb.

#2: Stick to sRGB if you rarely edit your photos, or you just do basic editing like levels and curves.

#3: Invest in a calibrating hardware. It comes with its own software so you can do easy step by steps on monitor calibration.

#4: Don't ask me about ProPhotoRGB. All i know that it has the widest color range known(for me). And the color quality of the print it produced is almost what i see on my monitor.

#5: Remember, if you wanna post your photos online and you're using the AdobeRGB profile. You can change them via photoshop. Go to Edit > Convert to Profile > Under "destination space" > select sRGB IEC 61966-2.1. Then save your photos. Then post them.

Hope this little info helps.

This post has been edited by R a D ! c 4 L: Jan 30 2008, 12:38 AM