Dudes all, I'm about to get some new batteries. Both AA and AAA sized and after reading forums etc, I'm think I'll be getting the Sanyo Eneloop batteries

Amazon.com prices - 9.67 4pcs (AA) 14.99 4pcs (AAA)
I'll likely get 8 AA + 4 AAA, anyone want to tumpang the shipment? (++ service charge from me lah ++ Shipping (USA/Msia)) But should be guarantee lower priced than what you can find in LY / Shashinki.

Let me know ASAP as I need to place the order fast, so that it will reach me before I head back to M'sia. (up to 9 days shipping)

According to Amazon, it's listed at 22.99, but I don't think you will want that. I read that since it's bought from the US, it's only 110V capable, not 240V so you will also need to get a transformer/upconverter (actually it's something which I already have ~Rm30+ from Jln Pasar) and it's also a slow charger. ~7 hours++. Up to you.

How soon? Well, ASAP. But I plan to order it latest My Wednesday(Your Thursday). Should be Tax Free I believe. (My Canon Bag was also tax free from Amazon)

It's called MQN06, and if you look closely, it's not 2 AA and 2 AAA, it's dual lah.. meaning, either you fit in 4 AAA or 4AA or 2AA, 2AAA vice versa.
But this package is only offered as 110V one, which is the MQN05. You're out of luck.

BTW, I'm buying this using _my_ own money 1st, no upfront payment from you needed. So, would prefer not to buy it w/ the charger in case you don't want it and I end up with it. (besides, it's easier for me to re-sell it as well)

go DigiColor lor

No need get the original one. Cause all of them looks the same you can't tell the difference at all. I bought my omnibounce from MITMIVEC RM50+ for a replica China made version. Used for few months and it doesn't turn brown or whatever. Maybe not enough UV/sunlight exposure. Haha! But it works effectively. So no need to waste the additional RM30 for a piece of plastic.

Yeah, flash does have a steep learning curve. I struggled also when I got my 430EX. Let me help you with this: Go to http://planetneil.com/tangents/ and learn up the articles regarding controlling flash and balancing it with ambient light. It'll give you a rough idea on how to use flash.

Take note that, all the picture modes including Av and Tv utilize the external flash as fill-in mode only. In other words, they will work the same as if there is not flash attached, but now the flash works to fill in your subject only (good for daylight). In low light situations, your shutter speed will still drop and cause motion blur. The 400D has a custom function to set the Av mode to fixed shutter speed of 1/200 (sync speed). Usable but defeats the purpose of complete control.

Basically, we use the external flash in Manual (M) or P mode. This is where you can play around with shutter speeds, aperture and ISO, etc and the TTL flash will compensate. This is where it will act as the main source of light. Good for bouncing and stuffs. This is how I used mine:

1. Examine the subject and determine an appropriate aperture so that everything will be in focus and sharp. Identify ISO too.
2. Set to Av with the desired aperture and meter a few spots to check the shutter speed readings. If too low, you calculate the next best shutter speed where you can prevent camera shake (this is better if you got IS).
3. Set to M and dial in your A, T, ISO, etc.
4. Set camera metering to Average and set flash to Average TTL (from within 400D custom function)
5. Set external flash compensation to +1/3 to +2/3. (depending on your preference)
6. Identify for best bounce angle. Look at walls, or use diffusers, etc (depending on your preference)
7. Shoot away.
8. You can change any of the settings on the fly and the flash will always compensate. Watch the meter on the viewfinder closely to see how far you have deviate from standard exposure. Use it as a guide.

Mr. Neil (from his website) uses the following to control flash with ambient.

T = Use to expose the ambient and background (determines motion too)
A = Use to expose the subject and depth of field (sometimes flash is too hot on subjects, reducing aperture will expose it properly)
ISO = Use to expose the ambient and background (determines noise too)
FEV = Flash compensation
Flash = Use to artificially 'freeze' the subject

I know this sounds like a bunch of bull. I can't understand it either at first. But as I got around with experience, it kinda works together now.

Hope it helps.

P/S: Don't worry about noise or shy to go ISO1600. You can do noise reduction later. A good program to try is Noise Ninja. PM me for details. Others are welcome also.

Fungus alert..zzz
bad luck falls on my 50mm..zzzz i spotted fungus...
ah... (all the bad words, cursing words)....
If still in warraty.. can bring back to service centre a

Dare to open yourself? 50-50 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia to remove the fungus.

Tammy is 17-50mm f2.8 la. 17-55mm f2.8 is for Canon
Why not 70-200mm f2.8 L?

Requirements:
1) Small philips screwdriver
2) Hydrogen peroxide and ammonia
3) Not a faint-hearted person
4) Must be ready to accept a dead lens

Lol.. Basically, just send it back to Canon unless it's a invaluable lens, just open it and have some fun. For cheap lens, the repair cost may exceed the value of the lens. Moreover, there is no guarantee that the lens can be repaired; depends whether the fungus has eaten into the element and glass.

To avoid fungus,
1) use drybox
2) use silica gel
3) bring your camera and lens out frequently

Fungus usually occur when the lens is seldom used.

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Added on March 7, 2008, 6:04 pm
Not cheap enough.

might be something wrong with ur CF card already, or reader got problem. I been using my 2GB since i got my cam till now nvr have this problem.

try your fren reader, or transfer direct from camera using canon software see how it goes, that can help u isolate the problem
btw can u view all the photos in the camera ?

Certain batches of CF card tend to have such problem. RMA the current card, if warranty still available or buy a new card.
Oh ya, before that, just give it a format. I wonder if your 400D has low level format option. It may work.

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Added on March 10, 2008, 12:18 am
Maybe you can play around with the metering option. And maybe you could have locked the exposure towards the background and apply a tiny amount of flash instead.

I don't remember seeing such problem when using the camera's SD interchangeably with my computer.
I believe that all those problem are due to crippled file allocation table. You really need to format the CF card. If it still doesn't help, that means your card is faulty.

since you can't view the photos from the camera as well, most probably the CF card is faulty, if it's new just go back to the shop to claim warranty for it. or get another card to test out.

you can get the canon zoombrowser ex here, but I am not sure which version is that though, but should be good enough. coz the software comes together with the cam in a CD, i think that's why cannot download from the website, only have the updates.

Hmm... I am sorry to hear about your problem. Maybe you can try valho's suggestion of using a 'emergency card reader' software to read out the native data from the card. Last time I accidentally erased some important pictures, but I was still able to extract the deleted pictures. Some of them were destroyed beyond repair due to 'rewriting' over the physical sectors. At least I get to restore some pictures. Better than nothing.

It is common practice to do formatting once in awhile or before an important shooting. You should do the formatting from within the camera itself. I don't do formatting from the PC because of the said reasons too. It is believed that once in awhile the FAT structure will corrupt in CF cards. Anyway it also helps to buy from a reliable brand. If it is defective in the first place, this is likely the situation here. RMA it, get a new one and test it by loading it to the full and then reading it back. Just to check on information containment.

I tried continuous shooting with my Nissin. I shoot 10 continuous shots. It managed to cope with that.

of course all lens can use wide open or smaller aperture, 50mm f/1.8 works best a f/2 above and shaperness peak at f/5.6 and above. so depending on what  you are shooting and the distance between you and the subject, you can choose the appropritae aperture . the best way to do this is just like what you did, shoot at different aperture and see the result

yup built-in flash doesn't recycle fast enough for continous shooting, and it also use up your battery faster. An external flash will always be better than the built-in flash, join us on our next outing for flash poison hehe

Its normal because it has a safely mechanism to protect the built-in flash head. Continuous flashing will usually increase the temperature of the element. So the system will not let you flash continuously indefinitely due to these reasons. The same applies for external flash too. But external flashes will have a larger tolerances for such torture. If you shoot in the hot afternoon with direct sunlight, the external flash will cease to fire also.

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Added on March 10, 2008, 5:23 pm

Yup! The EF50mm F1.8 when stopped down slightly is the best and goes all the way to F5.6. But of course you loose a little bit of DOF by going 2-5.6. Also notice that if you do 1.8 and you stand close to the subject and focus onto the eyes. At some point, the eyes would be in focus but the rest of it will be in DOF. Hahaha! Very funny one. So the point is, you need to stand further a bit so that the effective DOF is usable. But standing away effectively makes framing with the 50mm less tight. Unless you reduce aperture and go closer to prevent the DOF problem.

That is why those 85L and 135L is useful here. Hahahaha! Finally I understand why TheVOIP and D-SKY prefers such primes focal lengths. Do correct me if I was wrong though. This is strictly personal observation.

for cheaper alternative to the 85mm f/1.2 and 135 f/2 get a 85mm f/1.8 hehe not bad also or like me use a 100mm f/2.8 macro lens can macro and portrait lol

aiseh so far, form your own photogs group there loh, thn can test each other gears

when is V3 coming??

How much would a 400D be right now? with lense kit.

400D + EF-S 18-55 kit newbie here.... Hehehe....
Hope can learn more here than from my classroom... 

Fellas, how much is a remote and where can I get it? I want to shoot something remotely *grins*