I'm blur in ICE things.
now this is my specs.

Myvi Automatic 1.3

- stock HU
- 4 speakers component sets
- One unit of 4 channel 1200watts amp. 2 channels bridged to drive one unit subwoofer. Another 2 channel to drive 1 pair of rear components. And the front component is driven by the stock HU. Amp is using two pieces of 30amps fuse totaling to 60amps
- one unit 500watts subwoofer

Now, when i listen to songs like timbaland or something that has a lot of bass, i noticed that my headlight dims when the bass hits. But then my ICE is not those SPL double woofer or more punya setup or those with few amps installed, how come my headlight will dim?? I thought headlight dimming only applies or happens to hardcore SPL players?

And second thing, would this damage my alternator in the long run or batt?

My car stock batt has been changed from NS40 to NS60. Last time using NS40 also got this effect.

Sorry for the stupid questions posted....Just really wanna hear some feedback from experienced Sifus....

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 7 2007, 10:59 PM

It may cause by you amp.

Lack of grounding cables?

Actually NS40 and NS60 no impact in light dims, is only provide extra battery run-out before charge. I had changed mine from NS40 to NS60 for RM 20 bracket yet no differences.

Try installing voltage stabilizer to improve the electricity flow.

i had volt stabilizer installed long ago. no effect. anyway, does changing the stock battery to chassis, engine to chassis ground cable / wire to those big welding cables? feel like DIY since its very easy. but wondering if it makes any diff.

try check with your amp, seems like it absorb too much power.

VS wont help much as amplifier is high power consumption equipment. If wan, a cap will help u more than vs. but dun expect it can solve it 100%

make sure ur alternator is supplying enuff power

by the way...ur setup might not be @ its best

try to hook up ur component set which is powered by ur amp in front rather than putting them at the back

as for the back...u can use back stock speakers powered by the HU will do...in fact...i would suggest you to NOT connect any speakers at the back...

be thankful it doesnt cut off during those hard hitting bass slams...thats what happened to my kelisa when i set it up the same way u did... 2 channel bridged to a 12" sub and 2 channels for front comps.

amps is drawing too much power....hence the light dimming.

adding a monoblock for the woofer and dedicating the 4 channel to front and rear comps solved that problem for me.

imho...always best to have an amp dedicated for the woofer only.

anyway, heres another interesting one... my friend who drives a kelisa also had the same installation i did with his 4 channel (2 channel for comps and 2 channel for 2x10" woofer)...also had the same problem with the cut off...

his way of resolving it.... he added 8x80mm fans to cool down the amp. didnt really solve the problem....just reduced it by a bit. still getting the cut offs.

Hi madman... still play ICE ka?

For my kelisa old setup, I use 4 channel for drive component (passive) & sub... but never have this problem... I think this is because of the amp quality guar.
But the best way is using monoblok for sub...
But I don't have $ to buy monoblok...

@loon1031
yeah...but my setup hasnt changed la...last addition was the 12" Type R sub to replace my broken sub. everything else still the same...nowadays oso i rarely turn on my player liao....kakaka

n no need to buy monoblock la...2 channel amp oso can do the job ma...cheaper than monoblock somemore

loon... 2ch better than monoblock for the warmt and dynamics... hehe... cheaper than a monoblock as well...

craziechild... 2 channel bridge to whack the subbie is good in terms of musical wise... but if the subbie needs > 500 rms how? not many 2 channel when bridged can give that kind of power... hehehe... juz my 2 cents nia..

Got ar....

My dream amp ARC-Audio 2500-XXK， 270x2 @4 ohms, 525x2 @2 ohms, & 1,050x1 @4 ohms bridged

dun forget ur amp efficiency when u bridge it...

loon taikor... I know got 2 channel amp when bridged is more than 500 rms, audio system f2-500, TRU Billet 2110 PHD 2200 should be able to also kua... but the question is whether its more cost effective compared to mono ?hehehe... Bro ur an arc audio fan aye? So far i only saw one shop in pg (mainland) carries arc audio... got chance wanna hear ur setup can?

This post has been edited by bafukie: Nov 24 2007, 08:43 AM

hehe... my PPI also 600w rms @4ohm bridged... damping factor >400

so far so good... when i bridge it 2ohms for my sub... which is 1200w rms @ 2ohm...

cost effective or not... depends on how you view it... if 2 channel sounds better than a monoblock then to me its worth it...

if you are only looking for big power then of cuz its not worth it... power/price ratio...

so what you value most? power or sound quality???

This post has been edited by craziechild: Nov 24 2007, 10:30 AM

Should be good stuff from PPI. Its old skol stuff rite? Calvinci sells alot of good items..Hehehe.

Which shop got ARC Audio on sale?
I want pay a visit..hehe...

ARC Audio is a high damping factor amp which >2000 @ 1khz for 4150-XXK & 2500-XXK

ya... old school PPI stuff before it was bought over by DEI if i am not wrong.. hehe...

ya ARC has better damping factor... thts why i am interested with them also last time but price is going to burnt my wallet into ashes... hehe... so have to settle for PPI instead...

cheers...

loon kor... if u know bandar perda, there is a shop named extreme car audio, shop facing the main road so quite easy to spot... lots of arc there... amps and speakers included...

p/s: dun be fool by the 'ah beng' outlook...kekeke

TQ.. if free..I will pay a visit...!
Just don't price reasonable or not...

Sunday(2/12) got one TT by other forum....if u want listen my ARC Audio...u can come..hehe

is it because of my MyVi's alternator not strong enough? heck even without the amp blasting the bass causes the dim, the Ac kicking in also would cause it. All MyVis are like this.

Will changing to a bigger amp solves the problem? And does changing to bigger amp causes more engine load?

Usually bigger amps has bigger capacitor, hence less power being draw from ur battery during hard bass. So maybe it's ur Myvi's something punya problem la. Not so sure.

Just wanna ask all the sifu, if that problem occurred and I add up a capacitor to the setup. Will it solve the problem?

yes, but not totally, i oso had that problem b4, after adding cap, much better but still got dim a bit during hard bass.

oic mb. cuz i heard myvi's alternator pumps out about 40A and discover that amplifier draws 60A (Based on the fuse rating fitted on the amp).

It's all in the the configuration of your amp wiring & the impedence of your ICE-setup; the problem you're facing can be seen in most setup nowadays, adding another 5 power-caps or grounding-cables will not cure these type of 'ills'.

best long term cure is change the alternator to a bigger ampre ones...

What is the price range for this type of alternator? TQ

bigger alternator will cause more load on the engine thus reducing engine power right?

Unless you're goin for full-outdoor open-boot 'Jam-Zone' type of setup, you do not need an alternator churning out more than 80amps any in-car SQ or even full blown Techno up to 130db in the front seat. Like I've said previously it's how the wiring configuration is done to be maximum efficiencty.

personally i dun think that bigger alternator will reduce my engine power or what... my car stock was 70A now changed to 150A alternator from stinger.. FC still the same... power not much different... but mayb i havent tried to the top end power la... i am not power freak... hehe... let me drive RX8 my first comment is, "the front bass quite nice huh?" hehe...

will cause engine lose power meh? i don think so wor