Your ride still got warranty or not? If got warranty dont simply go out let other people do, if not later engine got problem they gonna blame u go out do and void warranty.
Walnut Blasting, GDI engine cleaning
Walnut Blasting, GDI engine cleaning
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Aug 12 2024, 08:52 AM
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#1
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2,712 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: Penang |
Your ride still got warranty or not? If got warranty dont simply go out let other people do, if not later engine got problem they gonna blame u go out do and void warranty. romuluz777 and ayamtriplex liked this post
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Aug 12 2024, 10:14 AM
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#2
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QUOTE(ayamtriplex @ Aug 12 2024, 11:09 AM) Dont stupid go out do extra, if got warranty go back SC and complain if engine got problem at least they help clean or claim without impacting the warranty. Once after warranty finish only go out do, if not later anything happen they gonna blame u go out do without their consent. |
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Aug 13 2024, 09:26 AM
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#3
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QUOTE(gobiomani @ Aug 12 2024, 06:20 PM) Modern GDI don't have this problem already or no where as severe as the Peugeot / VW GDIs of old. I drive a relatively newer Peugeot, 160k mileage with no walnut blasting done. If you really want to know whether there is severe carbon build-up, get the workshop to open up the valve cover and look at the valves, pistons etc. This depends, like someone said if he got a lot of start stop or short distance driving the chance of getting carbon built up is high. My mechanic place have seen Mazda Cx5 with over 200k still no issue as the owner always travel on highway high-speed driving, while another customer with 100k over already complain jerking and serious carbon built up, when ask he say he only drive in city and never really drive high speed over 110km/h The one that pampered the ride is the worse, compare to another 1 which is speed devil got less carbon built up. nebula87 and ayamtriplex liked this post
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Aug 13 2024, 03:39 PM
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#4
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QUOTE(gobiomani @ Aug 13 2024, 11:17 AM) Open up the engine top can see already whether walnut blasting is required or not, you can decide after looking at the carbon build-up. Anyway, nowadays its not too expensive do this, below RM1k I think. If open up for sure they gonna ask you to do it, is either serious or not. Coz you also need to pay for them to open up the intake also, so it is better to wait until like serious jerking or loss of power then do better. Usually recommend is after warranty ends like 100k check 1 time. ayamtriplex liked this post
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Oct 21 2025, 09:48 AM
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#5
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Oct 22 2025, 09:55 AM
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#6
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QUOTE(gogocan @ Oct 22 2025, 09:45 AM) [attachmentid=11520680] My mechanic got few CX5 & CX30 customers most after 5 years or 100k start complaining of rough idling and less power during pick up (mostly due to carbon built up in the intake). before..after 350k..cannot see anything [attachmentid=11520681] after blasting With your picture conditions this is really too serious until cake up so many carbon, not sure either your not sensitive during low speed driving or always on highway drive only? This post has been edited by littlefire: Oct 22 2025, 09:57 AM |
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Oct 23 2025, 06:05 PM
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#7
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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Oct 22 2025, 11:11 AM) Then don't do it yet. The main reason is PCV valve system that allows the engine oil fumes to return into intake. If exhaust gas itself the carbon wont stick (see your exhaust), it need oil or contamination to stick with it and solidify. Carbon build up is due to cars EGR system. It recirculates exhaust gas back into the intake at low load for the engine to run cooler and have cleaner emissions. EGR is not new, even on my old 1989 gallant has EGR but I blocked it with a blocking plate. The PCV system also may channel oil fumes back into the intake and can cause intake fouling. Turbo GDI engines generally will have higher carbon build up as compared to N/A engines. With no more port injection, the intake valves don't get cleaned hence the carbon build up. Toyota does is correctly with their own D4S engine with both port and direct injection. So if you drive a lot at light loads then you will get more carbon build up on the intake as the EGR typically functions at lower engine loads. Only way to check is to remove the intake manifold. If your carbon built up issue is not severe, sometimes you can just clean it with carb cleaner. A diy job if you are handy. Thus why it is recommend to fix oil cache tank for direct injection engine to trap those oil from going back into intake, but still it wont total eliminate (only delay). |
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Oct 24 2025, 09:55 AM
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#8
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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Oct 24 2025, 12:46 AM) I guess you've never seen a clogged up egr before. Most EGR issue seen by my mechanic are usually owners driving pattern & poor maintenance, my dads own an e90 320D until today never heard of him said about EGR stuck or blocked due to soot this is because my dad usually drive his ride outstation, on highway a lot and only pump Euro5 B7 diesel. At low rpm low load, and thus low intake velocity or in the case of GDI, improper burn, the combustion charge will turn to soot and gets re circulated through your EGR. That's what the EGR is supposed to do. Generally, GDI goes to lean burn up to 20:1 so soot is less of a problem but it does happen. Also all engines will burn a little oil through the rings. Some more, some less. I already mentioned the secondary cause which is the PCV. My mechanic place those who always complain of EGR issue can see a pattern, like to idle long period, usually city dwellers and also poor maintenance (engine oil use cheap and drag long period, (petrol engine) spark plug use low quality or wrong spec., dirty air filter etc or like to pump cheap diesel(for diesel rides)). If your ride seen a lot EGR issue, you need to check back your engine requirements like engine oil spec. spark plug types (or diesel fuel grade for diesel rides) and air filter, usually these 3 if not taken care will not help in improving combustion thus more soot = EGR faster stuck. This post has been edited by littlefire: Oct 24 2025, 09:57 AM |
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