the item you mention M2 Project got sell in shopee as well, but is with local seller warranty included.

https://shopee.com.my/CHIGEE-TR100-TWO-WAY-...fe-8056ba22d4a4

Thanks.

I have personal beef with m2 boss so will rather buy from Taobao.
Have to give credit to him too for able to spot good merchandise from Taobao and bring them in.
Another example is SMNU (brand) series of motorcycle products, pretty good.

Warranty in Msia is a joke.
Taobao give better warranty due to strict platform enforcement.

These things don't fail.
In the event it does, just throw away buy new.
Blood pressure better maintained this way.

.... enough ranting now back to charger.


This charger is nice but it's not rain proof when you are using it.
It also does not come with rain proof connector for it's USB charging port.

If you search for SMNU charger, like below.
It has matching water proof USB cable to go with it.
I prefer this type.

https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?spm=a21n5...d=5151369015761

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a21n57...d=4857560208015

In the mean time, I have also purchased Loboo USB battery charger. I keep the battery hook up to an SAE adapter for ease of charging using my big ass 50,000mah powerbank at condo car park.

This post has been edited by WH4CockcooBird: Aug 8 2024, 09:27 AM

So u want the power source side aka usb port to also be waterproof while in use? Can just place the port in a more waterproof area like under the seat n route the cable out.

What exactly r u intending to do?

Coz i usually just cucuk into a powerbank n shove it in a zip lock bag

Few things.

1. Supply power to an Android headunit supporting Carplay / Android Auto. Still struggling to find a reasonable unit that don't mess up helmet comm.
2. Supply power to Quadlock wireless charging base, but since Quadlock introduced a direct to battery wireless charging base, I can skip this.
3. Supply power to action cam(s) for continuous recording.
4. Extra back up USB for charging something, but already have this in glovebox of scooter. However, I can still pull one port into underseat area of scooter.

Thing is, opening up fairings on Honda scooters is so I would try to fix all up at one go.

Considered power bank solution before but prefer something that's more permanent and forget about it later. Just start engine, twist and go.

chigee also having waterproof charging cable as well.

https://shopee.com.my/CHIGEE-DATA-CABLE-TYP...58-2a035ad2f165

Ok, when I mean waterproof cable, I mean the USB connection at source. Not the target end point at device.

Battery --> USB power supply type A or C port --> Cable --> target device

It's the connection between USB power supply and cable.
So you need a matching cable to seal the area around the connector.

Quadlock 12V adapter has this design and I learnt from there.

aiyoh....so easy....

first... get THIS. im using this to power a usb port under my seat, my motowolf phone holder that has wireless charging along with a pair of led spotlights. or u can DIY this with a 30A automotive, bosch style relay and one of those multiport fused distribution blocks. personally, id just get this, much smaller package and neater. downside is 20A which is actually more than enough based on my usage... looks to be ok with urs too. same thing i posted in 1st post of this thread. just make sure to tap the acc wire to a keyed power source so it turns off when u turn off the bike.

then connect 1, 2, n 4 to it.

for 3, wanting to get the quadlock-like cable is just over complicating things. keep things simple. a USB port in a waterproof location along with a longer USB cable (which i believe the sjcam case u mentioned has, coz my SJ4000 case cable is really friggin long)... basically u can use 4 with a long usb cable. again, i used to run this with a powerbank in a ziplock bag in my jacket pocket. lasts the whole 10 hour day ride....rain or shine

i also saw the design of the quadlock cable. i wouldnt trust it for waterproofing on the source side even if its using the target side design. why? coz the target side has a "hole" for the cable to plug. while most, if not all USB A ports are flush with the surface, so theres nothing to plug. even usb C ports as source are flush with the surface so no actual hole to plug.

also, if u plan on getting the SJCAM waterproof charging case... u cant change the cable without damaging the waterproofing. its kinda embedded in the screw on cap n kind of a tight fit. so ur stuck with that cable anyway.

for the fuse box i mentioned, connect all wires and route them where ever u need in advance. if any unused, just tape/heatshrink it off first at least itll be accessible later on when u need it. no need to open up everything n reroute new wires bla bla bla.

for carplay/ android auto... my friend bought the greenyi. he also uses a cheapo RM30 bt headset (non intercom). everything runs well together... he normally uses it for GPS while listening to music.

Remember...keep it simple. Recognize when u may be overcomplicating things and look for a simpler solution. Sometimes itll just appear

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Aug 9 2024, 03:43 PM

oh... sorry for misunderstand your question

1. Power splitter box you mentioned I had bought it last year. Recently bought another type, smaller unit. Gonna use it to supply to spotlight and USB charger.
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=726468..._u=91jml7aqd345

2. SJCAM C200 Pro. Supplied with "waterproof" cable at target side. I think workable by hiding the connector away when not in use. Also possible to use a powerbank in jacket if I wanted to mount it on my helmet.

3. Carplay / Android Auto. The default connection is Phone --> HeadUnit --> Helmet Comm. Helmet is not connected to phone. This is where the complicated part comes in. Most HU does not use proper BT profile. When connected to comm, your comm unit will turn to 1:1 connection and you won't be able to connect and talk another rider. What's prefered is Headunit <-- Phone --> Helmet comm. I am trying to test this when I have the opportunity on phone side, see if I can redirect audio through another BT device.

4. Cabling. Yeah, intend to just lay them down first.. if you know how interesting and fragile is it opening up those fairing, you won't want to do it a 2nd time

last weekend change EO and OF
pomen said my bike need to change oil every 3 months

This post has been edited by alexei: Aug 12 2024, 09:00 AM

if they don't overcharge you ok la, just laugh and pay

Ya loh I found bike shops always recommend overly short interval of service.

Some still insist 3000km. I have to change every month then if that was the case. 300+ each time. 400 if I use motorex.

Manual says 15k. I change at 10k or 3 months. Which ever comes first. I do about 3k ish per month.

I think the origin of the 3k mileage is from america where they suggest you do service every 3000 miles.. which equals to 4800 km
Some mechanic just take the figure 3000 without counting the unit.

But technically we should follow the recommended mileage on the engine oil, if it states so right?

For example, on the Mizu it says 3K KM, so even if my bike says I should only change every 12K KM I should just do it at 3K KM given that the engine oil states so. I do noticed most engine oils will not state the recommended mileage.

This post has been edited by JustForFun: Aug 13 2024, 09:03 PM

whats your milage?

myself quite very low milage one year maybe just over 1k?.
I rode in to a yamaha sc after 6 months bout 500km in, i was asked to go home, said 1 year is fine.
owners manual suggest 10k (never did mention a duration)

but when i approached an outside workshop, he said big bikes 3 bulan must change... i pun abit surprized.

70k km, due for a VC also, per year about 5k I think

It depends on the crankcase oil capacity. Bigger bikes have more oil and hence longer OCI.

The oil itself doesn't necessary degrade but the additives do and the oil gets dirty. Some engines will run dirtier than others. My NK800s 10k (factory oci is 15k, but I change at 10k) oil looks noticeably cleaner than the 5k oil in the Dominar. (2.8L vs 1.8L)

Most factory recommended oic is now 10k or 1 year. The one
year is due to a sparingly used bike that does not necessarily
get hot long enough to evaporate off moisture in the crankcase.

Sure there is no harm other than your wallet or the environment to do a short OCI

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Aug 14 2024, 06:31 PM

For your usage, do you notice an increase in vibration or gear change smoothness as your oil age, even at the rate you put in the miles?

Some people say the 'butt test' should be the indicator to when you change your oil, when the engine/gear change becomes noticeably harsher and that's when you know it's time to change the oil, but I don't think I ride it enough distance/frequency to be able to tell the drop in ride quality.

Not really. Both the KTM based motors sound like tractors anyway. No matter of oils you put in. So it doesn't really feel like anything changed.

My mileage is definately higher than your regular biker...I'm doing some 30k+ km per year. The dominar's factory OCI is 5k on normal 20w50 oil. I'm using mizu 15-50 fullsyn but at the same interval.

My 10k OCI on the 800nk is less than the factory 15k. Feels it should be ok it should be ok.