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 Any recommended water heater brand?, mechanical RCD vs electronic RCD

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Zot
post Sep 14 2023, 10:21 AM

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QUOTE(goolie @ Sep 14 2023, 10:06 AM)
u mean the reset button as highlighted? Every water heater that comes with reset button will surely a mechanical one?

user posted image
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I think if the reset is a button not push in mechanical, then the cutoff mechanism will not be mechanical but electronics. Not to be confused with Test button smile.gif
Zot
post Sep 14 2023, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(goolie @ Sep 14 2023, 10:24 AM)
How to differentiate push vs button? from the layout we can know? Do u have any good example?
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I go to the Joven link provide and I see this picture. SO, it must be mechanical biggrin.gif When the Test button is pushed, the plastic level will jot out like in the picture I believe.

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This post has been edited by Zot: Sep 14 2023, 10:29 AM
Zot
post Sep 14 2023, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(lowyat101 @ Sep 14 2023, 12:09 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


btw from the picture of the "ELCB", i see that actually it's connected to both live and neutral, not to the earth. so it looks like it's in fact a RCD and not ELCB since at this moment the "real" ELCB should be no more available in the market.

any electrical engineers here can comment on this?
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Hard to tell from picture. Perhaps it is not wired properly biggrin.gif

Originally the ELCB is voltage triggered device. Once current flow in earth circuitry, it will produce the voltage to trigger trip mechanism in ELCB. Later current triggered ELCB was developed. So, there are two types of ELCB, voltage and current triggered ELCB. The current one is renamed as RCCB or RCD.

However I doubt it is an RCD here. hmm.gif
Zot
post Sep 14 2023, 02:52 PM

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QUOTE(goolie @ Sep 14 2023, 01:03 PM)
I confirmed that it's ELCB. See the picture inside WH. So, it's not safety to use? Should I change my decision to Not To Buy?

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The house RCD has higher current trigger level to prevent false trigger due to accumulated leakage current in appliances. TNB guidelines shows 2 RCDs:
1) 100mA trip current for wires to lighting and dedicated power outlets such as for air-cond, water heater, etc.
2) 30mA tripp current for power outlets such as 13A sockets for universal use.

As for the water heater, another 10mA RCD is recommended to be install for each water heater..

For me either ELCB or RCD, both can be unsafe. Most importantly is to regularly check if they function properly. The ELCB depends on house grounding. Over years the house grounding can fail due to corrosion perhaps. There RCD can also fail to trip due to malfunctioned.

In water heater electrocution, I read that 100% is due to using conductive hose with conductive shower head, which is basically metal. Nowadays all comes with rubber/silicone hose. Many say ELCB not safe but for me, it is still okay. WH body is plastic. Metal part inside the WH which is the heater itself is grounded. If there is shorted, the ELCB is triggered. The RCD operates in different way to prevent shock which is also no problem. However, normal RCD cannot detect faulty unit. Say the WH runs at 3kW, but when the current goes to 5kW it will not trip RCD because the supply and return currents are still balance smile.gif . Once the current goes over the MCB, then the MCB in DB box will trip. So, still safe to some extend.

Like I said the most important thing to ensure that those safety device performed normally with regular testing.

 

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