For Titi do the following.

1) line up at the titi, but as far back as possible without the rear tyre crossing the line. This will allow you to ramp up speed before getting on the titi.
2) focus on the (slalom) cones ahead, which usually will be in-line with the titi.. Give it throttle to get up on the titi. Immediately feather rear brake and throttle/clutch all through the titi run to keep speed and start counting down 8 seconds. As long as you are focused on going straight and moving, you won't fall off.

For the sharp corner, again feather rear brake (don't use front brake) feather clutch, counter lean (lean slightly away from the corner; while turning right, shift your body left. bike will turn easier...and sharper).

The titi test is more to test nerves than skill. I've seen completely new riders with mere hours on a bike pass the first time and see veteran riders fall off multiple times.

One more advise, when practicing, go off the titi a few times, so you won't be scared of falling off. It will make you calmer later on.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jul 31 2023, 09:48 PM

If you fail the 1st section, you just need to do the first section next time....but since the circuit is continuous, you just have to do 2-3 at the same time.

Just to add for the titi. It's ok to go faster (to gain momentum and balance) for the first 1/4 of the titi as long as you slow down enough for the rest of it. A lot of people make the mistake of going too slow up the titi. Hence leaving 1-2ft of space for you to gain speed before hitting the titi.

The test for me was fun though.... During practice did all the funny things ..like stopping in the middle of the titi while balancing, doing a slight wheelie during the run to e brake...steep lean angles during figure 8. Would be embarrassing if I didn't pass the first time out...hahahaha.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jul 31 2023, 10:13 PM

If you already have a big bike, practice counter leaning in a parking lot. You will find the bike turns more easily and sharper for tight low speed turns.

Only higher speed corners you can lean with the bike. Low speed is usually counter lean.

Just to clarify.

For the z turn, it helps to counter lean. It's not necessary. When I mean counter lean, I meant leaning your body away. The bike still leans in the direction of the turn. You are using your body to counter the bike "falling" into the turn.

Same with the figure 8. You can do it better with counter lean. But again not necessary for the test.

But low speed counter leaning is crucial for day to day riding on a big bike on the street...on sharp turns or U-turns.

Lol...that's because the dominar is harder to ride than the z650. Hahaha

But the main cause of titi failure is test butterflies. As long as bike moving and focused on where you are going, no problem.

Test for me was also easy because I had 1 year on my dominar as my test was interrupted by 2nd MCO.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Aug 2 2023, 04:54 PM

Good to hear.

For bigger heavier bikes, it's easier to turn with some counter lean on low speed, sharp corners or U turn. Something you will need to do when you get yourself a big bike.

The logic behind this is, for a big heavier bike to turn sharply, it needs to lean into the turn, the sharper the turn, the more lean it needs. But at low speed, you don't have enough centrifugal force to keep you from falling into the turn, thus you counter balance the bike, by using your body to lean away from it to balance it.

Tight u turns on a big longer wheelbase bike will be darn near impossible to do without counter leaning.

Now go buy a big bike and practice. Hahahaha

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Aug 7 2023, 05:27 PM

Yes you should be.. You need to go to jpj putrajaya hq. Had mine done 20+ years ago. So not sure if the procedure has changed

I converted my Canadian G license (equivalent D class here) back to Malaysia licence as my local licence had long expired

WTF?


Since when do they charge for damage? all of them were beat to hell already and all have crash bars. Although I didn't drop mine during practice or test, there were many who did and no one bat an eyelid.

Your test bike does not have crash bars??? I mean at those speeds, there should be only minimal damages if any if the bike has crashbars.

I had mine done at Metro.

The more you worry, the higher likelihood you would fail. Just take it easy. Plenty of people pass on the first try.

As for the e brake test. You just have to accelerate quickly to 50 and brake hard. The big bike will get up to speed really quickly. If the bike has ABS, just let the bike handle the lockup.. I don't see why you would need more than 5secs.

Likewise.

I'm always in gear, clutch in with left foot down, right foot on the brake.

This is best practice.

That said, it's a bit less than ideal for us right hand drive countries. Left foot down curbside means lots of sand and soft soil. But I know a lot of adv riders just step on the curb because kaki tak sampai....

I think there are some difference between grading for kapchai and big bike. Instructor says for B test, you get an extra point for wearing proper moto boots.

Big bike now got ABS. How to lockup? My test bike is a z650 ABS.

That's right. Get a cheap beater bike to practice.

Lots of used z250s... And even now you can find Dominar 400s for cheap.. maybe earlier 2018 models at 6k.

In fact the dominar is an even better learners bike. It's heavy , ungainly and has a long wheelbase. Making slow speed maneuvers even more difficult than the z650 test bike. If you can handle the Dominar, the z650 test bike is a piece of cake. Another plus is, parts are damn cheap to replace...if you do drop it...and it's a hardy machine..I laid mine down possibly over 50 times and not even a scratch on the coverset. Sure, I had to replace levers, foot pegs, shifters and the stock crash bar.....but none of those cost anywhere near 100.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Sep 7 2023, 10:25 PM

Not sure why you worry about the clutch. Bikes use wet multiplate clutches. They can take slipping way more than car clutches.

Yes, on slow speed, slip the clutch with rear brake.

I'm coming up to 60k on my ori clutch. I don't think you will slip the clutch in street riding any more than I do when I go off road. Its not something you need to worry. What you need to worry about is the clutch free play.

I know quite a few owners that adjusted the clutch so much it burnt the clutch in 15k. Don't adjust the clutch free play to bring the friction point nearer. Use adjustable levers.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Sep 11 2023, 05:08 PM

On low speed, you have to keep feeding power to the wheel by letting the clutch slip. Control your speed with the rear brake. Don't be tempted to use the front brake in a low speed turn or u turn.. The second you touch the front brake, it will just kill momentum and transfer weight to the front inside turn and down you go.

For tight corners, you need to counter lean some. The more lean, the tighter the turn you will be able to turn.

The first 50km when I got my bike was all parking lot drills. Low speed stuff. Figure 8s. U turns. Dropped it a few times. Only after I got my "L" 2 weeks later did I venture out. That 2 week practice made such a big difference in confidence.

Making a u turn on a steep incline/decline still mucks me up sometimes with the bike fully loaded up.

Instructors ask you to do 2nd gear for the plain reason most newer riders haven't mastered clutch slip and throttle control leading to a jerky on/off ride.

Proper way to go ride low speed is constant throttle and control power delivery with only the clutch, and speed with rear brake. Quite a lot of bikes have a very on off throttle engagement in the first 10% opening, leading to a very jerky ride. You need to use the clutch to smooth it out.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Nov 30 2023, 05:19 PM

Condo parking lot lor. Plenty of space to practice, 8s, u turns. Practice pick up the bike. ;p

I bought a dominar 400. Still have it after 2.5 years. Over due for an upgrade next year.

I just posted my 60K review on the Pulsar / Dominar thread. you can read my thoughts on it.

Assuming it actually happens...and if it does, when.

No rugi what. Taking a b full test isn't exactly expensive. It's just a right of passage. If one thinks getting a B full is cost prohibitive, then that same one might want to rethink getting a big bike...they cost a lot more to maintain. Just tyre replacement costs alone will make your eyes water. On a proper big bike, your yearly tyre replacement costs will be more than a B full upgrade test.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Dec 13 2023, 04:53 PM

I could see one thing coming out of this though. We would likely get more "world" bikes in the 300 to 400cc range having not stuck at the 250cc limit. But then again, if you have been riding for more than 10 years, chances are you'd start at the 600s anyway.

Resale value for 250s would probably tank though. If you got a b full, you are going to start at the 400 mark... Bikes like the dominars will probably sell better.