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 Malaysian experts worry about dying art of kebaya, embroidery amid UNESCO bid

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TS30624770
post Apr 23 2023, 12:11 PM, updated 3y ago

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KUALA LUMPUR, April 23 — Growing up in Penang in the 1950s and 1960s, Lily Yew said there were kebaya makers everywhere.

“By 1980, there were just a handful,” the 75-year-old Nyonya kebaya entrepreneur told Malay Mail.

Many embroiderers have retired and kebayas sold today are mostly embroidered by Indonesians, she said.

“Indonesian mass production is the affordable trend now but it’s very sad that locals do not want to carry on the tradition.

“I can count on one hand the authentic sulam embroiderers left in Malaysia,” she said, adding that she learnt the technique herself to teach her embroiderers.

Kebaya expert Cedric Tan, 58, agrees that the making of kebayas is a dying art among Malaysians, saying that it was a craft learnt by women.

“Kebaya making is not a real money-making thing now, unless you are very good and fast,” he explained.

In the past, it was done by housewives in their free time so it was not possible to produce many pieces in a short period of time, he said.

“There are very few people who can sew and customise kebayas now,” he said, estimating that there are maybe four or five who can do it, some of them from the same family even.

“There is an urgent need to train young fresh embroiderers who are interested in taking up the embroidering of kebaya,” he added.

Tan, who is involved with the Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture’s initiative to nominate “Kebaya: Knowledge, Skills, Traditions and Practices” for the Unesco list alongside Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand, emphasised the importance of maintaining the traditional item of clothing for the initiative to succeed.

In a statement earlier this month, the ministry said that the kebaya represents and celebrates a shared historical legacy and is still worn by communities across South-east Asia.

“The kebaya is an item of clothing that symbolises a cultural legacy and the identification of the Malays, Peranakan (Chinese, Baba Nyonya, Chetti, Siamese, Kristang) and other communities in Malaysia as well as countries in South-east Asia.

“The kebaya fulfils the definition of intangible cultural heritage elements as it includes traditional weaving skills such as embroidery and sewing techniques to create this traditional women’s clothing,” it said.

However, Tan is concerned that nobody really wears the Nyonya kebaya anymore as they don’t come cheap.

“I’ve heard of it costing as much as RM4,000 a piece,” he added.

But there are still affordable mass produced kebayas that people can purchase, he added.

Penang Nyonya Cecelia Lim, 68, said designing and embroidering the Nyonya kebaya requires passion, interest and patience.

“It is tedious work and sometimes, the embroidery of one kebaya can take months to complete,” she said.

She said not many people are willing to spend the time to do this.

A modern kebaya top and sarong in English floral print with matching headscarf from Zaff Ben Jibby. — Picture courtesy of CollabStore

Over the years, she has taken on a few apprentices who want to learn Nyonya kebaya embroidery but they often give up halfway through.

“I have one apprentice who gave up after a few months of learning,” she said.

Former Muzium Negara curator and textile expert Zubaidah Sual, 70, is not worried that kebaya making is dying out.

“I feel that there is no lack of kebaya tailors,” she said.

Malaysia has not only local tailors, but also those who hail from other countries such as Indonesia and Pakistan, she added.

“The demand for kebayas especially from dance groups and for weddings as well as events is very encouraging,” she said.

However, it is a different story when it comes to embroiderers because of the complexity of producing kebaya embroidery, she said.

“Because of that, many embroidered kebayas are imported from neighbouring countries like Indonesia and southern Thailand as the price is also much cheaper,” she said.

https://malaysia.news.yahoo.com/amid-unesco...-230000895.html
Avex
post Apr 23 2023, 12:14 PM

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no need to preserve, let is die off.
SUSandylyc
post Apr 23 2023, 12:17 PM

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Kebaya terlampau seksi. Nanti kena kecam kaw-kaw.
spamfish
post Apr 23 2023, 12:18 PM

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fruits love arabic fashion more...
SUSrtk74
post Apr 23 2023, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(Avex @ Apr 23 2023, 12:14 PM)
no need to preserve, let is die off.
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If it's Singapore would you say the same
Starbucki
post Apr 23 2023, 12:21 PM

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If mira wear kebaya can just see her kepala besar
azbro
post Apr 23 2023, 12:22 PM

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Drills mana?
cockyboy
post Apr 23 2023, 12:24 PM

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yes , should preserve it, malaysia is unique for its culture


icemanfx
post Apr 23 2023, 12:24 PM

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Taliban is exterminating the Malay culture.

AthrunIJ
post Apr 23 2023, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(spamfish @ Apr 23 2023, 12:18 PM)
fruits love arabic fashion more...
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mrg220t
post Apr 23 2023, 12:26 PM

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Kebaya bukan budaya Melayu Islam. Tak boleh. Sekarang Abaya pakaian tradisional Melayu.
mick84
post Apr 23 2023, 12:26 PM

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Religious or race culture more important?

I’ll pick culture.
Avex
post Apr 23 2023, 12:28 PM

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QUOTE(rtk74 @ Apr 23 2023, 12:20 PM)
If it's Singapore would you say the same
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just let it die off
wawasan2200
post Apr 23 2023, 12:32 PM

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people dont understand

culture should be evolving

if culture doesnt evolve according to the needs they should die


culture is formed due to decision nenek moyang
you are nenek moyang of you anak cucu


like dynasty qin orang kahwin pakai baju hitam
later change to merah


if culture no evolve now we dont wear shirt we pakai daun or kulit haiwan cover badan
etc
quartre88
post Apr 23 2023, 12:41 PM

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some kena taliban
like makyong

then when other countries use it marah pulok

ish ish ish
ruffy_z
post Apr 23 2023, 12:42 PM

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Arabization is the in thing
Lancer07
post Apr 23 2023, 12:43 PM

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SG and Indo will preserve kebaya culture for MY
SUSceo684
post Apr 23 2023, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(mrg220t @ Apr 23 2023, 12:26 PM)
Kebaya bukan budaya Melayu Islam. Tak boleh. Sekarang Abaya pakaian tradisional Melayu.
*
With that face covering curtain thing

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 23 2023, 12:44 PM
kcchong2000
post Apr 23 2023, 12:46 PM

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Kebaya kenot coz manyak will pancut

new in IT
post Apr 23 2023, 12:47 PM

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Kalau bukan Arabic, Kasi pupus je.

Owaii... Makan lemang tu pun bukan Arabic...

This post has been edited by new in IT: Apr 23 2023, 12:48 PM
smallcrab
post Apr 23 2023, 12:48 PM

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Ketat.
Pas kata jangan.
DarkNite
post Apr 23 2023, 12:49 PM

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QUOTE(Avex @ Apr 23 2023, 12:14 PM)
no need to preserve, let is die off.
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Yup.
Indonesia is doing it so well & cheaper, earning big money from Singapore & East Asia.
RT8081
post Apr 23 2023, 12:49 PM

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QUOTE(Avex @ Apr 23 2023, 12:14 PM)
no need to preserve, let is die off.
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Malays should preserve this as this is their heritage, just like how indian preserve their sarees and chinese with cheongsam
moodswingfella
post Apr 23 2023, 12:50 PM

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Preserved pls. Ayam love awek wearing see through kebaya. Since ytd dey all keep belanja my eyes im happy.
Einjahr
post Apr 23 2023, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(Avex @ Apr 23 2023, 12:28 PM)
just let it die off
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den u prefer wat? Abaya? Burqa? lel
damonlbs
post Apr 23 2023, 12:59 PM

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dont worry peranakan baba nyonya will preserve it
SUSJulie Ting
post Apr 23 2023, 01:01 PM

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I was at a school function, those nontudungmelayteenagerswearingkebayaandhighheels look really hot and sexy.
killdavid
post Apr 23 2023, 01:12 PM

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Let it die off.
When people don't cherish their roots and prefer to follow foreign culture, then what for maintain it ?
ikankering
post Apr 23 2023, 01:14 PM

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kebaya from indon

not our problem
gaman
post Apr 23 2023, 01:15 PM

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Kebaya just like other Malay cultural performances, such wayang kulit, Mak Yong, Kuda kepang etc., are dying because of religion extremism arising in this country.
SUSceo684
post Apr 23 2023, 01:16 PM

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Kebaya user is the majority
If they dun use then who will use
FappyBird
post Apr 23 2023, 01:20 PM

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Kebaya quite sexy coz top part got abit see through iirc

It's actually quite contradicting to values in Islam...not surprised the culture slowly dies off, coz since malays themselves think their own culture has less importance than a religion. But I would say write it down in books are put the said garment in museum ...that way they can still teach the young even without having them wear it

Tbh even the younger Chinese also but ours were more to modernization that leads to skimping and skipping of certain traditions or activities like, since more and more are becoming atheist, some traditions were seen as a waste of money due to the absurd amount of preparations and steps needed were quite time consuming...all just to please whatever god but didn't have any blessings in the end
3rdEdition
post Apr 23 2023, 01:23 PM

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Kebaya comes from indo... #doneclaim
SUSceo684
post Apr 23 2023, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(FappyBird @ Apr 23 2023, 01:20 PM)
Kebaya quite sexy coz top part got abit see through iirc

It's actually quite contradicting to values in Islam...not surprised the culture slowly dies off, coz since malays themselves think their own culture has less importance than a religion. But I would say write it down in books are put the said garment in museum ...that way they can still teach the young even without having them wear it

Tbh even the younger Chinese also but ours were more to modernization that leads to skimping and skipping of certain traditions or activities like, since more and more are becoming atheist, some traditions were seen as a waste of money due to the absurd amount of preparations and steps needed were quite time consuming...all just to please whatever god but didn't have any blessings in the end
*
Inside got wear slip one wat
acbc
post Apr 23 2023, 01:31 PM

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Pointless to preserve if not commercially viable.
suicideroach
post Apr 23 2023, 01:34 PM

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Them: Too sexy, haram, aurat, blablabla

Woman: Too fat to fit in kebaya anymore
SUSNihonmaru
post Apr 23 2023, 01:35 PM

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Taliban Arab wannabe: Kebaya mengakibatkan keibaratan seks
cursetheroad01
post Apr 23 2023, 01:38 PM

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QUOTE(suicideroach @ Apr 23 2023, 01:34 PM)
Them: Too sexy, haram, aurat, blablabla

Woman: Too fat to fit in kebaya anymore
*
Exactly
People stop wearing kebaya because its hard to look good in one nowadays
sonypshomer
post Apr 23 2023, 01:39 PM

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Tak guna bertudung kalau pakaian nampak susuk tubuh. Lagi baik kau telanjang dan bersetubuh.

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TS30624770
post Apr 23 2023, 02:02 PM

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QUOTE(wawasan2200 @ Apr 23 2023, 01:32 PM)
people dont understand

culture should be evolving

if culture doesnt evolve according to the needs they should die
culture is formed due to decision nenek moyang
you are nenek moyang of you anak cucu
like dynasty qin orang kahwin pakai baju hitam
later change to merah
if culture no evolve now we dont wear shirt we pakai daun or kulit haiwan cover badan
etc
*
You are right if culture evolved to become more easy, modern and accordance to the needs of 21st century. However, what we’re seeing is the opposite. Certain people are not evolving but regressing instead.

Kebaya is the culture of Malay for centuries. It can evolve into something modern like cheongsam but letting it die is just disrespectful of Malay culture but some people prefer to adopt Arabic culture instead of protecting their own culture !
TS30624770
post Apr 23 2023, 02:07 PM

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QUOTE(cursetheroad01 @ Apr 23 2023, 02:38 PM)
Exactly
People stop wearing kebaya because its hard to look good in one nowadays
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This is just excuse. Cheongsam can evolve into something not figure hugging as well. Why kebaya cannot? In fact, there are already kebaya labuh today
fu'house
post Apr 23 2023, 02:08 PM

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Kan ada Indonesia. Ours die off that's it for us.



Pakailah kebaya Indonesia. Indonesia Indonesia Indonesia berjaya!
Mattrock
post Apr 23 2023, 02:13 PM

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Some people are a threat to their own existence or identity.

This post has been edited by Mattrock: Apr 23 2023, 02:14 PM
TS30624770
post Apr 23 2023, 02:14 PM

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QUOTE(fu'house @ Apr 23 2023, 03:08 PM)
Kan ada Indonesia. Ours die off that's it for us.
Pakailah kebaya Indonesia. Indonesia Indonesia Indonesia berjaya!
*
I think it will be kept alive by baba nyonya community in Malaysia. Baba nyonya kebaya is definitely more hgggh version 😝

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Human Nature
post Apr 23 2023, 02:18 PM

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RM4000 is because she went to high end designers. Come to Melaka, generally still between RM200-RM400 depending on the patterns and materials.
jibpek
post Apr 23 2023, 02:20 PM

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PuAS x puas
dylan_chng
post Apr 23 2023, 02:22 PM

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Just need someone to make a Brilliant.org or Udemy course on Kebaya
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post Apr 23 2023, 02:25 PM

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Say no desert culture

say no to processed diabetes food

Say yes to youth Nusantara classic beauty. Cherish it while we still can. Now all nenek already

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post Apr 23 2023, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(icemanfx @ Apr 23 2023, 12:24 PM)
Taliban is exterminating the Malay culture.
*
Harga sulam mahal Taliban juga dipersalahkan. Baca la artikel tu lain kali

 

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