There are so many car tints in the market nowadays, I am super confused which is which?
Sputter Film? Nano Ceramic Film?
IRR, TSER, UVR?

Time for us to revisit this again in 2023 to help us fellow Malaysians to know what could be the best budgeted choice for you or for your friends and family.

Sputter is metallic based and more effective in rejecting heat, but will cut Infra signal resulting RFID Card/Smart tag hard to detect.

Ceramic usually lower in heat rejection thus no issue with transmitting Infrared tech signal.

Popular choice are 3M Crystalline Films which is high in heat rejection but will be a little difficulties using infrared transmitted device.

currently I am using IrisPro the one with 100% UV rejection, doing good so far for 1 year half

Raytech I had on my other car feel meh.. but I took FX series which is entry-mid range, but it still wasn't cheap

magic tint

I guess with RFID on headlights, 3M's product is only going to get more popular I recon.

No frills just product, and maybe a little bit of premium. That's what makes 3M sell usually.

Just have to make sure getting the authentic one from 3M Authorized Installer.
Because we as user do not have proper tools to measure if tint used are authentic, even with the meter they use to measure, any cheap tint when it is new the number will be good, what I care more are how long the tint can last before it degraded.

vkool for sure

rfid stick at side mirror can.
since d technology is rf no need line of sight

my car seller give me free tint mohawk brand.
i used 3M and Lumar in the past.

is mohawk good brand?

Have not heard of it before hahaha, you come back drop review after 3 years

mohawk is more in car audio...
suddenly now hv tinted

When biz is not really good then suddenly OEM becomes an option

Just like diversifying into selling EOs

What series of IrisPro are you using, and what windscreen/front/back VLT did you go for? How’s the heat rejection on hot sunny days? Overall quality after 1.5 years acceptable?

How u know iris pro really give 100% UV rejection?

From what I recall from their SIRIM Certification and their website, these are all tested and measured by a Window Tint Meter.

But I am just not too sure if it's marketing gimmick or what, but based on research comparing to so many big brands out there, they are considered quite reputable and credible it seems.

But Mohawk has always been only into Car Audio systems. Never have I heard of them into Car Window Tinting

It might be the typical accessory shop gimmick, where they get tint film from one of the local suppliers and just rebrand to one of the audio brands they carry. Maybe somewhere in MY there’s a shop carrying Rockford Fosgate tints also.

This post has been edited by dev/numb: Apr 4 2023, 02:29 PM

UVpro series I go for VTL 30 side and rear then 50 for windscreen.

After 1.5 years still satisfied like new, but my car parked at basement carpark, that could be one of the factor slowing the degradation

They have a meter to measure, but if it is 100% or not my eye can't tell that and I have nothing to prove

They have other lower end series that is 99% UV 380nm which measure UV able to went through more if using UV420 grade meter, while UVPro90 series able to shown block 100% at meter.

The point they trying to make is usually tinted 99% UV rejection were measure with <380nm grade meter
Theirs were measured with 420nm grade which is higher grade and although higher grade it still score 100% rejection.

But in the end of the day it is their meter that they are using, no one knows if it was rigged.

The way to really to go about whether is it going to be real or fake is to pay a higher premium price and go for Branded Tints like 3M, V-Kool, Huper Optik etc.
IrisPro if not mistaken is a local brand, but they got all the SIRIM Certified or what not. To be sure they are not giving you any cheap tints, do ask them to use the Tint Meter to measure once they done installation lar. I think as a Consumer you reserve the right to ask for it, if not how to know u didnt got scammed.

I wouldn’t reco Huper. Used it before and after abt 5-6 yrs the tint has a wavy look at certain angles. Although it doesn’t affect visibility.

Sputter is the technique to deposit tiny particles on the film. Be it metallic or ceramic or both.

Essentially all proper tinting film is sputter film.

The sputter terms became popular because the film makers wanted to differentiate themselves from the color tinting (like the one on lantern), that is for cosmetic and don't actually designed to block solar energy.
Don't think those films still exist on window tinting market, but I can't be sure.

If want absolute cooling, V-Kool is the undisputed winner. Most of their products are metallic heavy.
Like many said that block RF signals like GPS and cell phone signal also weaker.

On SmartTag, ignore all the confusing info and different versions. I can tell you all tint with IR blocking will affect SmartTag because SmartTag use Infra Red, of course depends on the actual wavelength if you want to go in depth. The better the tint, the higher the impact.
You want worry free choose the cheaper tint with no more that 85% IR rejection.

IR Rejection is another thing with most makers only publish 900-1100nm wavelength. Xpel was the only one published very details specification (too geeky for most people that have not taken undergraduate physics 1, start from blackbody radiation). But sadly it also follows the majority and no longer have those info.

Ceramic tint can be as good as Metallic based tint like V-Kool, provided the vehicle is constantly moving given similar TSER. Because the ceramic particles absorbed the energy, the glass will be hotter vs Metallic tint that reflects most energy. If read the fine print, most ceramic tint only reflect 5-10% and absorb the rest of energy.
When vehicle moving, the energy is dissipated by the air constantly move over the outer side of the glasses to cool them.
Stop vehicles, the energy absorbed by the ceramic particles eventually reach the cabin via thermal conduction. That's the cons of any ceramic based tint.

A lot of tints on the market are now hybrid.

Ceramic/Metallic particles are expensive, that primarily determine the price point. Of course the quality of sputtering, how even the particles distributed, as well as the bare film quality how clear (some brand call HD vision) etc.

UV blocking is common, like sunglasses you won't get anything not blocking 99% UV A, UV B. Also modern vehicle light green tint already block most UV anyways, some also 99%. Scientifically speaking one can put 99.99% to a point 6 sigma even 7 sigma confident level , but it will never be 100%. Take 100% claims at a pinch of salt.

Visible light carries about half of the total energy from the sun light. So a light tinted film can not get pass 50% TSER. To get over 50% TSER, the film can only be made darker.

This post has been edited by constant_weight: Apr 10 2023, 09:59 PM

kudos to ts for not using the word'tinted'.

Now I know why my ceramic tints kinda sucks after parking a day out in the sun.

Raytech sbb kedai dekat gila dgn rumah...takyah drive jauh2

any good 3M/vcool tint shops around KL/PJ?
Good in terms of pricing and services. Thx

Where is Horus?

Is IrisPro RM500 ones good? Not sure what series but should be the lowest tier of it.

I realise this is an old thread but it's the first time I'm seeing this thread, so I'll respond to your post. Similarly I wouldn't recommend Huper Optik for its price. In my experience, it's not the waviness but heat rejection. It's good for the first 3 years but after that it's downhill as the tint loses its effectiveness. In the 8th year, the vehicle feels like there's no tint installed on it as the heat rejection performance degraded to a severe level. I actually replaced the Huper Optik tint (Sech60 front and front side, C40 rear side and rear) with a cheap tint recommended here on this forum costing up to RM600 just for front and front side during the 8th year. It's also a mistake on my part to trust forum words too much as the recommended VFM tint replacement actually feels almost the same as the degraded Huper Optik's performance after installation. Anyway since it's not costly so it's not too bad. The lesson learnt is you have to experience the tint yourself as people's expectations are different. A good tint recommended on this forum turned out to be a poor tint for me.

I presume the choice of the poll will also be dependent on price as well as the tint with best heat rejection performance will be most expensive. Sometimes people just want value for money, the cost of the tint at a price point which gives the best heat rejection performance. From my limited experience, the best tint with heat rejection performance would be V-Kool Elite. The heat rejection performance of this tint is superior to the few tints I've tried, though all are cheaper tints and the V-Kool is the costliest. The performance of the V-kool tint is also long-lasting as it still feels the same from the day it was installed until the 5th year when I sold the vehicle. The price is usually higher if you ask for quotation from authorised installers but if buying new Nissan cars, the V-kool package is included by Tan Chong at a significant reduction. For a full V-Kool Elite tint to the whole car (Nissan Almera), it's only RM2.8k. If doing outside I suspect it's close to RM4k or higher.

This post has been edited by SportyHandling: Jun 24 2025, 07:39 AM

learning a new things, thanks

3M is the best and most value for money.