I'm using the same one. Space not an issue on my dominar.

Had it on the bike 2 years. No corrosion.

But 6x is way too many. Too bad can't find a smaller 4 way. Still got 2 auxiliary accent markers I've not yet hooked up though.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Mar 7 2023, 11:24 PM

I prefer to fuse each accessories independently. Easier to trouble shoot things in the future. Can just yank out that fuse and disable the circuit individually

Good share. This would be good. Comes with a built in relay as well. Will use this on my next bike.

20A is way more than enough. 240W is a lot. Smaller bikes might not even output that much from the stator.

A big 1250GS puts out 500W (primarily for the heated seat/grips and the range of options), the smaller 310 put out 300W from the alternator. Too bad most manufacturers don't publish any info on the electrical output.

A typical led fog light only draws like 3-5A max for the pair.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 13 2023, 01:41 PM

Nice. Small and compact.

It didn't come with extra fuses?

You mentioned 20A current limit...is this per circuit or whole box?

See colour lor.



But anyway 20A total is plenty. Unless you plan to run heated gear.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 18 2023, 03:06 PM

Those are all 5A fuses in the box. Should be enough for most things

Depends on what spotlights you use. Most spotlights runs 10W LEDs. So 20W max for the pair. Add another 20% loss, it's 24W. So that circuit only 2A.

If you got a really high wattage spotlights or multiple off, then just split the circuit lor. I prefer to split the circuit anyway so it's easy to trouble shoot in the future. But if both sets run of a 2 way switch, then you will only have 1 circuit to the switch. You will not have both sets on concurrent correct? If you have then concurrent to one switch...the. You need to run a higher amperage fuse.

Don't know about you, but my 10W spotlights are damn bloody bright already.

But a word of caution though, if you DO indeed do midnight runs, better get a wide spread floodlights..or aim your spotlight
out to the side for cornering illumination... .and don't go too bright. Because if the lights are too bright, it's easy for your eyes to adjust to the bright lights close to you and it makes the dark environment further away all that more difficult to see. Sometimes too bright lights are not necessarily a good thing.

I'm running these on my bike. Have them on all the time...even daytime. Have a switch but I just leave them on. Been on the bike 2 years now. Small and bright and can be mounted anywhere. The heatsink is good on this one. Doesnt overheat. Cheap too. About 55 to 60rm a pair. I actually have a single unit on my bicycle running of a 12V custom liOn pack.
[url=https://pictr.com/image/EnG8BZ]
[/url]

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 19 2023, 02:47 PM

I seriously doubt those little lights are 60W/6000lm a pair. these are bright but not 60W/6000lm bright. For reference a single car hid bulb is 3500lm. To me it feels more like 1000 to 1200lm per lamp.

If you have an amp meter you can probably find out the actual current draw at the 13-13.5v it runs on when the bike is running, just to be sure.

I think your use of that 4 ports are all thought out. But I won't put the 12v ciggy port on the relay/fuse box. 12v ciggy port should always be direct connect to battery with its own 20A fuse. Stuff like air compressors can easily blow out a fuse.

If you are doing all these wiring, maybe buy some quick connect SAE pigtails so you can just plug in for temp use accessories without having to get into the box

Same with cars, HID bulbs are not meant to be used in reflector lens headlamps. The beam pattern get all fvcked up... Due to the filament/arc location is different from a halogen bulb. You see nothing, and you end up blinding everyone, especially worst on bikes, because our headlamps sit so high up.

Yes HID has a separate ballast box.

Looks like a real hack job from the shop. This is why I always to do the wiring myself. Dont trust them.

As for LED drop in bulbs...have to make sure the LED beads also line up with where the halogen filamen is, or you'd still run into weird beam pattens. Again not recommended for reflector headlamps....as the reflectors are designed to work with the bulb it is designed for.

For the 12v ciggy, you can run off another relay. But don't mix the 12v ciggie with other things. Initial amp spike when the compressor turns on can burn the fuse real quick. Ideally, you should turn the compressor on B4 attaching the hose to the wheel to minimize the spike. Don't ask me how I know.

That's really odd to have 2 ballast boxes. Anyway. If you change to signal lamps from bulbs you might need a LED resistor pack or else your signals will blink like it is on speed. Dont think you need to mess with your signal relays though...unless they have special relays for LED signals that support lower resistance LEDs

You can add these in-line resistor packs ..or if me, I would just replace the entire signal assembly.

I really don't understand why people cut the stock harness. You could almost find any harness fitting online and do up the circuit better. You could find male and female H7 sockets and do it right if you are doing the wiring on your versus

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 20 2023, 02:34 PM