Which fuse box / splitter you all install in your bike to pull power from battery (ACC) and split to your accessories like spotlight, horn, USB charging etc?

I bought a 6 way unit, it's damn big.

https://shopee.com.my/6-Way-12V-Blade-Fuse-...7827.7550471484

Why not get a smaller one then?

https://shp.ee/c576mpy

This post has been edited by muncheno: Mar 7 2023, 01:23 PM

Just use a fuse tap and direct to a relay switch , i did that to my Dominar

Fuse box in my scooter is not at a friendly location, no space.
Can't close box after install fuse tap.

I use the Healtech Thunder Box direct tap to battery, literally plug and play. It has in-built engine cutoff with delay. But have yet to install my dashcam and the usb charger as still figuring out the cable routing. Damage is 435 for the box, 135 for the charger.

The thunder box looks small and maybe meet TS's needs, but wow that pricing maybe for those bikes that costs more than an Axia.

This one got fuse?

Off topic but I want to thank TS because I was cracking my head looking for a fuse solutions for my 12V/48V backup electric system for house. I think this could work.

Why you need so many fuse for ACC?

If you use the fuse box tapping wire, you will have one fuse to serve that 6-7 split.

I am going to open up my bike and see.

Only slight concern is this connector is not water proof, and the latch might get loosen up after all the shaking vibrating in the bike.

I'm using the same one. Space not an issue on my dominar.

Had it on the bike 2 years. No corrosion.

But 6x is way too many. Too bad can't find a smaller 4 way. Still got 2 auxiliary accent markers I've not yet hooked up though.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Mar 7 2023, 11:24 PM

No la, TS was asking for fuse box ma & I was also looking for fuse box also, so asking whether that connector you shared have fuse built in or not.

I prefer to fuse each accessories independently. Easier to trouble shoot things in the future. Can just yank out that fuse and disable the circuit individually

I was asking for either fusebox or splitter ☺️

Here's what I used to use before using a Healtech Thunderbox. A lot more compact & easier to use, got 6-way version too. Just tap it into a switched 12v source and add a fuse, ground it to the batt, although you have to be mindful of your intended current draw (amperage) so that you don't overwhelm the source circuit.

This post has been edited by ZZR-Pilot: Mar 8 2023, 03:05 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

necro-ing this thread coz i found this..... looks quite interesting n cheap too.. simple wiring and probably cleaner wiring since all comes out same side unlike most other fuse boxes with wires coming out of all the damn sides.

20A though which i think should be enough........kut?

https://shopee.com.my/12V-Fuse-Box-Quick-Wi...f8-f34b59cad51e

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Apr 13 2023, 01:12 PM

Good share. This would be good. Comes with a built in relay as well. Will use this on my next bike.

20A is way more than enough. 240W is a lot. Smaller bikes might not even output that much from the stator.

A big 1250GS puts out 500W (primarily for the heated seat/grips and the range of options), the smaller 310 put out 300W from the alternator. Too bad most manufacturers don't publish any info on the electrical output.

A typical led fog light only draws like 3-5A max for the pair.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 13 2023, 01:41 PM

Gee.. this is what I dreamt for!!!

Thanks for the finding!

Hope tiongcock will come up with the smart sensor chip to detect charging (motor is running) and activate the box, rather than using the ACC wire. There's already plenty of cables accessories for spot light using this type.

the acc wire is just to send a signal to allow the power to be passed thru from the battery so shouldnt be any issue... n u can re-wire ur accesories directly to this box and itll be receiving more direct power from the battery

Yes.
It's to activate the relay so battery power can pass through, else battery drain.

ok....ordered it via this link instead.

https://shopee.com.my/NE-Motorcycle-Quick-W...318.23927833842

cheapest so far...with free shipping voucher applied total comes up to 46.21

wont be installing so soon as i have a tonne of electrical shit to re-do on the bike, so will probably do this when that happens as im still waiting for stuff.

those who also ordered n installed, feel free to leave a review ya.

Ok barang dah sampai...quite small...n unfortunately uses micro blade fuses which is not as easy to find as minis which are on our bikes.

Still can find on shoppee though so will get some as spares.

Ciggie box for size comparison

Nice. Small and compact.

It didn't come with extra fuses?

You mentioned 20A current limit...is this per circuit or whole box?

theres a couple of diff colored fuses in the bag... within the box itself there are 4 similar color fuses pre-installed ...not sure the amps coz too small to see anything.


i think 20A is max output of the whole box... i could be wrong.

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Apr 18 2023, 03:03 PM

See colour lor.



But anyway 20A total is plenty. Unless you plan to run heated gear.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 18 2023, 03:06 PM

im gonna have trouble differentiating 5A n 20A...me colorblind abit ahahhaha

Heres a pic of the internals



This post has been edited by mADmAN: Apr 18 2023, 04:11 PM

Those are all 5A fuses in the box. Should be enough for most things

5A enough for led spotlights?

Maybe even 2 sets spotlights on 1 output?

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Apr 18 2023, 11:06 PM

Depends on what spotlights you use. Most spotlights runs 10W LEDs. So 20W max for the pair. Add another 20% loss, it's 24W. So that circuit only 2A.

If you got a really high wattage spotlights or multiple off, then just split the circuit lor. I prefer to split the circuit anyway so it's easy to trouble shoot in the future. But if both sets run of a 2 way switch, then you will only have 1 circuit to the switch. You will not have both sets on concurrent correct? If you have then concurrent to one switch...the. You need to run a higher amperage fuse.

Don't know about you, but my 10W spotlights are damn bloody bright already.

But a word of caution though, if you DO indeed do midnight runs, better get a wide spread floodlights..or aim your spotlight
out to the side for cornering illumination... .and don't go too bright. Because if the lights are too bright, it's easy for your eyes to adjust to the bright lights close to you and it makes the dark environment further away all that more difficult to see. Sometimes too bright lights are not necessarily a good thing.

I'm running these on my bike. Have them on all the time...even daytime. Have a switch but I just leave them on. Been on the bike 2 years now. Small and bright and can be mounted anywhere. The heatsink is good on this one. Doesnt overheat. Cheap too. About 55 to 60rm a pair. I actually have a single unit on my bicycle running of a 12V custom liOn pack.
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This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 19 2023, 02:47 PM

THIS MDL is currently installed on my bike with a 2x30A relays harness. basically the same spotlight as urs with a different housing/heatsink. but site says its 60w. i also have the same exact design (not sure of if diff specs) on the Z9 for the past couple of years. not used often though.


i ordered 2 other spotlights to replace a bulb based spotlight currently on the bike (which is on another 30A relay harness) as it sux so bad. not sure which one to install yet as space constraints may come into play. basically i ordered THIS 9W and also THIS 20W. both look more like flood lights to me.

basically i plan on powering these off the fuse box.

- 1 port for TPMS (with USB out) + 12V ciggie port + DIY gate remote
- 1 port for the MDL
- 1 port for one of the flood lights
- saving 1 port for now just in case i plan on adding more electronics like DVR or something

the unlisted floodlights may still be installed n was thinking of sharing with the other floodlight port for power source. all auxiliary lights will have their own separate switch.

for usage, i wanna be able to turn on all 3 auxiliary lights safely at the same time. though the likelihood of that happening is gonna be rare tbh...but u never know.


actually i was thinking of building my own fuse box which uses standard blade fuses and hooked up to a 30W or 40W relay but then i found this 20W prebuilt. but now, come to think of it, not sure if its a good idea to run all those lights off a single relay. perhaps each light may need their own relay to run safely

I seriously doubt those little lights are 60W/6000lm a pair. these are bright but not 60W/6000lm bright. For reference a single car hid bulb is 3500lm. To me it feels more like 1000 to 1200lm per lamp.

If you have an amp meter you can probably find out the actual current draw at the 13-13.5v it runs on when the bike is running, just to be sure.

I think your use of that 4 ports are all thought out. But I won't put the 12v ciggy port on the relay/fuse box. 12v ciggy port should always be direct connect to battery with its own 20A fuse. Stuff like air compressors can easily blow out a fuse.

If you are doing all these wiring, maybe buy some quick connect SAE pigtails so you can just plug in for temp use accessories without having to get into the box

I only have a multimeter...which i mainly use for voltage n connectivity checks. No idea if it has amp meter or even of i know how to use it to check power draw ahahah.

Interesting abt the 12v ciggie port....ex owner installed it n its always live even when the bike is off. Dont really like that but u make a good point. Guess ill leave that as is since he also gave an air compressor when he sold me the bike.

The box will be under the seat....so easily accessible. Ill just use some of the bullet or spade connectors i have for any quick connections i need.

Speaking of HIDs...ex owner also had hids installed but they are sooo bad i cant see anything. The wiring is also a horror. A quick look through and there isnt even the h7 sockets anymore. I think the installer chopped them off and spliced them directly into the ballast.....odd thing is the hids has the ballast n some other small black box per bulb. N they r osram brand.

I already have some cheap 4300k led bulbs on hand. Pending some other stuff to arrive before i can open up the bike n do all in 1 go. Versys isnt fun to constantly dress n undress the bike...

Same with cars, HID bulbs are not meant to be used in reflector lens headlamps. The beam pattern get all fvcked up... Due to the filament/arc location is different from a halogen bulb. You see nothing, and you end up blinding everyone, especially worst on bikes, because our headlamps sit so high up.

Yes HID has a separate ballast box.

Looks like a real hack job from the shop. This is why I always to do the wiring myself. Dont trust them.

As for LED drop in bulbs...have to make sure the LED beads also line up with where the halogen filamen is, or you'd still run into weird beam pattens. Again not recommended for reflector headlamps....as the reflectors are designed to work with the bulb it is designed for.

For the 12v ciggy, you can run off another relay. But don't mix the 12v ciggie with other things. Initial amp spike when the compressor turns on can burn the fuse real quick. Ideally, you should turn the compressor on B4 attaching the hose to the wheel to minimize the spike. Don't ask me how I know.

So, how you know?



kidding...

Really jealous you fellas can easily fix wiring matter on your bikes.
For scooter is a PITA with all the covers.

what i meant was, aside from the ballast, there is another small black box...dont know why it has 2 boxes per bulb...both has osram's labels on them.

yeah gotta clock the LEDs properly with the chips facing 3 n 9 oclock. if its still shit, ill probably buy some nightbreakers.

anyway... the bike is a 2013 bike so previous owner added mods that were more popular during that period i guess. i just wanna modernize it a bit with LED stuff...even LED signals but i cant figure out where the damn signal relay is on this Mk1 V1K.... all info i find is either for the 650 or the Mk2 V1K.

versys isnt that easy either with the fairings. even worse if its something u wanna do that involves removing the fuel tank.

naked bike still the best...still have to remove some small covers here n there but theyre so easy to remove n put back on.

That's really odd to have 2 ballast boxes. Anyway. If you change to signal lamps from bulbs you might need a LED resistor pack or else your signals will blink like it is on speed. Dont think you need to mess with your signal relays though...unless they have special relays for LED signals that support lower resistance LEDs

You can add these in-line resistor packs ..or if me, I would just replace the entire signal assembly.

I really don't understand why people cut the stock harness. You could almost find any harness fitting online and do up the circuit better. You could find male and female H7 sockets and do it right if you are doing the wiring on your versus

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 20 2023, 02:34 PM

i will never add inline resistors ever again....damn thing gets super friggin hot... id rather use the relays... has adjustable speeds too (yes, LED relays exist, cheap, n usually orange in colour). be it led bulb or whole assembly will still need the relay/resistor.

same... i dont mind cutting stock wires in order to splice in something but to totally remove? ridiculous.