Hello,

I have a wall switch with 4mm wiring for cooker hood. initially i requested for 2.5mm wiring, but the electrician convinced me to get 4mm as the cooker hood warm up will need high power. After checking the specification the hood only required 300 watt.

Now i feel the wires is very much over size, so happen now lacking of one power socket at the kitchen.
I would like turn the existing wiring into looping of 2 units of 13A power socket (2.5mm wires), one for cooker hood and another one for pop down power socket from kitchen cabinet. MCB will remains as 16A.

Understand that switch always need to turn on at the first place for the 13A power socket to work (not modifying this as the live wire from DB it is already concealed in the wall).
also not going permanently connect the live wires and bury the switch, because the 13A socket for cooker hood is at the top inside cabinet, so difficult to reach, to turn it off still need the existing switch.

is it really safe to do it this way ?
what should i use for the flex out to split the wires ? can i just use the item like image below ?

after thinking again i think the electrician is using electric hob wiring for a hood








This post has been edited by Pain4UrsinZ: Dec 31 2022, 09:55 PM

dont want pull from db again, all already concealed and patch up

sorry it is double pole 20A switch, anyway i just limited the MCB to 16A will do ? i just updated the diagram

This post has been edited by Pain4UrsinZ: Dec 31 2022, 09:51 PM

i just updated the diagram, the switch there is full for it's conduit already, wires conduit cannot put in more wires

yea it is same wiring like water heater and aircond but on this 300W hood