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 Safe to use 13a plug for water heater?

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SUSceo684
post Aug 25 2022, 10:03 AM

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QUOTE(davidlow7 @ Aug 20 2022, 05:04 PM)
Yes,  just make sure the professional is a real professional with licensed and advise according to guideline.

Life is cheap anyway and you are not alone actually, as I can see many houses are not setup according to specs and regulation.

The othet suggestion I have which are cheaper and do not require major rework would be changing the socket to the WH type 15A at least, and before the switch just install a dedicated RCCB 10ma  before your 20A switch which should give you a good protection already.

user posted image
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Cannot get job if use proper specs. Total bill few hundreds for barang alone, customers think I'm ripping them off.

Because too many RM80 installer on FB. People expect cheap. Using proper materials not part of the equation. Else I'd just ask customer you go buy the materials as per shopping list, then I come. Then they will appreciate that the components cost good money.
SUSceo684
post Aug 25 2022, 02:35 PM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Aug 25 2022, 11:51 AM)
I understand perfectly how ELCB and RCCB work. Why the big name in water heater manufacturer still use ELCB not RCCB? ST should make it mandatory to use RCCB for water heater, don't they?

How did people get electrocuted in cases of water heater? The casing is plastic and the hose is silicone rubber. Is it because the water heater uses ELCB not RCCB?  smile.gif
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RCCB and ELCB cost difference a lot. It may cost more than half to 3/4 of a RM200 water heater.
Since the onus is on the user/installation and not mandated (on the mfg of WH).. don't put in better.
After all most consumer only want cheap like a purchasing dept.
You give them good, not that they appreciate (they think we trying to rip em off); not many consumer will consider the quality of work and what they're missing. Only those in the line will be scared (the thing about people dont know what they dont know)..that's why I run my own home DB setup as stringent as possible. Nothing above 30mA on mains and each WH has a 10mA RCD.

QUOTE(Zot @ Aug 25 2022, 12:45 PM)
The main problem with ELCB is more into the functionality of Ground wiring which maybe overlooked. The L and N wire if no connection the user will know immediately since device will not operate but for E failure no one will notice. This will not trigger ELCB in case the E circuit failed.

The new device that is more advance than the RCCB is GFCI. This will performs what RCCB does and also sense short between N and E. My company is producing this for a Europe customer.
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ELCB covers connectivity to ground check.
But ELCB is not a replacement for RCCB.
ELCB if not mistaken is a mandatory item in WH that's why they all come with ELCB LED.
There's also AFCI too biggrin.gif
SUSceo684
post Aug 25 2022, 06:24 PM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Aug 25 2022, 03:11 PM)
Well, many electrical contractors charge too much but using low quality material. Most likely it is because they need to pay workers salary all year round and projects are not continuous all year long.  smile.gif  For that reason, I also prefer DIY  laugh.gif

I'm not sure about the price because I'm not in this business line. However, if you talk about the manufacturing cost, ELCB is more expensive to produce compare to RCCB but the RCCB perform better than ELCB.

I guess the main reason for ELCB in appliances is detect faulty appliances  smile.gif
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Also boils down to where it's made and currency exchange.
ABB/Hager 10mA made in Italy or France easily RM150-160/ea
Cheaper one local made or Schneider around RM100
Cheapest one from PRC around 60 bucks IIRC..
but u wanna save money on the "safety belt" device meh? Especially its "one-off payment life insurance" brows.gif as compared to whatever insurance every year pay a lot.. this one pay once covered for 20-30 years.


I also DIY because in that sense I know everything is fastened properly and according to spec or even some of the time, exceed spec (especially for short runs).. cable so cheap even for 4mm loose cut.. it won't break the bank. Its about not having to deal with melted wires or risk of house catching fire excl.gif
For time saving and avoid breathing in plaster ceiling dust I also retrofit wago connectors for those LED downlights.. fiddling with screw connector is waste of my time when i can just clip unclip.

Hard to find clients that will insist to do it properly up to spec (safety is 1st priority) and don't mind paying (reasonable amounts).

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 25 2022, 06:30 PM
SUSceo684
post Aug 25 2022, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(FusionXY @ Aug 20 2022, 12:31 PM)
No. Singapore couple got electroluted by using this.
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SG and Msia installations have this same issue of not-up-to-code old installations.

However, there isn't much awareness on retrofitting with 10mA per water heater OR to get the highest sensitivity mains RCD (30mA whole house) in MY.

In SG it is pretty common to see new installations with 30mA whole house RCD everywhere. thumbup.gif
10mA for water heater still a question mark in older HDB. Not all have it retrofitted.

This brings up another can of worms - before renting a place, also check the DB box that it's safe to use.
SUSceo684
post Aug 26 2022, 09:41 AM

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QUOTE(JasonTheGreat @ Aug 26 2022, 09:06 AM)
Tumpang question since same power rating 3300w.
Is the below safe?
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2mm cable? Not 2.5mmsq for the in-wall concealed cable?

Its OK but you might consider using a CEE plug instead of DP switch (so u can disconnect the oven)
SUSceo684
post Aug 26 2022, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(davidlow7 @ Aug 26 2022, 09:50 AM)
For a 3300w power-rated oven, 1.5 sq mm cable is questionable by a mile!

Secondly, I will not use a 2.5 sq mm wire for a power-hungry appliances like oven, I would go for 4mm as you are going to run your oven for a long duration. You are probably testing its limit - a water heater at around 1A to 2A higher usually runs at a much shorter duration is already advisable to go with 4 sq mm wire. Regardless of the wire size, you need to invest in a better quality wire so it can lasts you long - having SIRIM should be the bare minimum
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Got some champion use uncertified wire before.
Those that scared to show marked cables to customer are probably suspect.
Especially those using nonstandard tomfoolery calculation 40x0.193 or 40x0.076 type cables are excl.gif suspect. Because our usual ST spec is 1.5 2.5 4.0mm any funky spec of wires are deemed as suspicious already.

QUOTE(JasonTheGreat @ Aug 26 2022, 11:31 AM)
My bad. Yes 2.5mm but non Sirim cable sad.gif installed by contractor
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Cost cutting. The minimum spec should be
stiff cable (MS 2112-3) Caramay, Mega Kabel, TONN, or those MCMA cartel
or flexicord (2112-5) Fajar Cable.

Copper price more or less is like that one. Cheap stocks aren't copper.
SUSceo684
post Aug 27 2022, 01:32 PM

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QUOTE(JasonTheGreat @ Aug 26 2022, 02:50 PM)
This. Doesn’t look like got SIRIM
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laugh.gif that one tipu cable. If u see the cable insulation there's nothing printed on it right? Or just PVC auto control cable without mfg name.
Clear violation of standards if used in residential 230V but they label as PVC auto control cable

Auto control cable is safe for low voltage 12V/24V in auto(mobile) use or control circuit.
It may not have enough insulation resistance for 230V or 415V. doh.gif
Insides also likely to be recycled copper or not pure copper.

Fresh copper very pliable and can be twisted without breaking apart on the first time. Compare Caramay/Mega Kabel with any of the PVC auto crap
Price-wise also should hint something is fishy no?

Actual price for 2.5mm still >100, the 90 one is old price clearance stock icon_rolleyes.gif
At 55 bucks its not like they got the copper stock half price...

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 27 2022, 01:37 PM


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