12V 16A, that's about 192W
Make sure your alternator/generator/rectifier is able to handle that extra load.

Not going to go overboard with the current training bike.
As it is old, I just need something to read the voltage (simple cheap Shoppee display) and USB for waze.
Maybe a central low watt spot light but that is a nice to have thing.
Not a fan of splicing the harness to hook up additional gadgets.

If you are going to add any thing, you will need to splice/tap at least 1 wire or use a fuse tap for switched power from the ignition to avoid accidentally draining your battery.

I DIY an auxiliary mini fusebox powered by a relay from the battery which is triggered from the "lights fuse" using a fuse tap. All accessories are wired to the fuse box, at least the wiring is more neat. Anyway only 2 things wired to it currently. A usb charger combo + 12v socket + with display)and a pair of 10W aux lights.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jul 1 2022, 04:28 AM

Main supply has to come from the batt thru a relay to the fused distribution block, the relay runs a trigger circuit to a switched 12v source. That's the safest way to do it without using Thunderbox.

You may hijack a fuse point to steal switched 12v power directly from there without a relay, provided the circuit can support the amperage you need without melting & burning down your bike.

Careful if your bike uses CANBUS, this method is asking for it to get fucked up.

Yep.

Tap the 12v switched power to activate the relay that then powers the aux fuse box, direct from battery. That's the correct way to do it.