Mine also have this "Yamatick" noise. I have digest many statements from YouTube and forums and found out most would conclude CCT and some had tried Manual CCT and succeed. MT09 is clearly having this soft spring CCT problem and all of them solve by manual CCT. But the MT07/FZ07 is not conclusive. And if manual CCT is solution but this manual CCT for MT07 is very hard to get locally and very few website mostly from USA.

I use to have CBR 250R before twice change CCT due to rattle/ticking/clunking whatever people interprate as noise while engine is running. But the culprits for honda is the rocker arm bearings, it failed because of oil pump weak from factory before it reached 30,000km.

From my experience these Yamatick is not sound like timing chain because it vanish on revving and this sound more like valve attitude. Futher more it doesn't came frome the right side where the CCT is placed. But annoying when idling and also sometimes it comes intermittently. No doubt some may choose to have loud exhaust to kill the annoying Yamatick.

My experience with this bike also found out weirdly in manual the shift table is so low and awkward. Imagine the table listed shiting 2nd at 20kmh/3rd at 30kmh and so on 6th at 60kmh. If you follow this you will be lugging the engine, you will notice and feel it as experience rider or manual car driver. But surprisingly by following this my Yamatick become softer and almost vanish or maybe it just solve the intermittent ticking while idling or before shiting at certain rpm like 2000 or 3000rpm.

Definitely i dont have luxury time to catch-up with traffic every day doing crawling launching the bike in daily traffic. It depends on my moods so the Yamatick also will follow the same. But overall i manage to control this annoying engine sound passing 5,000km and nowadays it has new ticking charecter. No tick just normal roughness of sync engine parts working at low until 80°C and gradually ticking without intermittent until 105°C idling before the fan kicking and temperature bounce back to 90++°C.

In conclusion, i will endure stock standard MT07 like this untill 40,000km where valve need clearence to see how it goes. Most user reporting nothing to worry, accept MT07/ fZ07/ Tenere 700/ XSR700 like that. Get loud knockoff exhust or original akrapovic that cost a brand new budget kapchai to appreciate the bike more. I welcome any other experience mt07 owner to advice more so we can have a conclusive solution to this Yamatick.

understood that before i bought recently for that long history of bullet proof engine. Impress that Yamaha installed the same engine 700 CP2 in various model, same like Honda choose their 500cc from cb500r, cb500x, cb500f until honda Rebel500, Kawasaki did the same with 600cc and same like Perodua choose same 1.5 VVTi to be installed in myvi, alza, avanza, Aruz, Yaris etc.

But it is a shocking experience for me with this Yamatick. It is like an open box surprise because most engine annoying sounds come with ages but this one is mystery. It doesn't tick at low temperature indicator, it doesn't show the symptoms at show room revving, it surprises you at the moment you ride back home. There must be way to solve this problem because some MT07 doesn't suffer yamatick or very minimal ticking. Mine and some others are very noticeable and magically intermittent. I really hope it will not be getting louder like a Ducati dry clutch.

i had even tried, "ride like you stole the bike", doesn't seem to solve but maybe the engine feels smoother less vibration since i shift almost all gears at 6000rpm above. Furthermore, it is not safe to do that every day.

I use Yamaha fully synthetic for 1st time oil change. She tick loud until today suddenly it is gone hopefully forever. May she doesn't like thin oil, because my fully synthetic will be expired at 6000km soon, now 5000++km it should be thicker by now.

Maybe also because i did something few days after my last written in this forum.

I preheat from low to 40C where i am sure mine will not tick at this temperature. I pull throttle gradually to 5Krpm, 6krpm, 7krpm and jump to 10krpm few times blip. Let it idle and found out no ticking until 96C and ride.

Few day passing this week, everytime i preheat and try to hear the tick never come out, event i waited until 96C no more ticking or any intermittent ticking, ping my ears. I hope it last forever like this.

Anyone feel free to replicate my preheat throttle blip sequence, hope it work with other bike too.

If it was an injectors ticking not valve, maybe the injector flushed well after what i did.

Good to hear that your ticking is down to acceptable pitch. My pitch tolerance would be without helmet, engine singing with "bass" sound, low tone pitch. If it needs to "tick", lets tick with low tone pitch, ticking in lubricant, tick that being concealed in metal box and not that make my heart bleeds and pinging my ears.

Undeniable Monster Torque, I heard some use R6 throttle tube to punch faster with short twist.

Completely agree, smooth deep sound and predictable engine. If it sound bad means something wrong. Not the other way round.

This time revisit to own Yamaha because of MT07 reputation and i need a mid class all rounder. Truly it does meet the purpose with Yamatick package. Honda is expensive nowadays, kawasaki too tall for me, Suzuki i dont have time to search for after sales services. China made bike too fancy design like KTM. Harley feel either i am too relax/old or too Hipster. Sorry for those reasoning huhuhu

Also agree by experience, i bought used vulcan en500 1997 long ago in early 2000 and it had valve issues. Only me knew how to crank start the engine. If you failed to crank start few times dont waste time and battery, left it to try another day.

I read the same, i notice the same with my bike now. I dont use quick throttle tube but i dont like to lug the engine. I prefer my bike to get use 5000rpm over with less vibration. So i push the throttle like quick throttle for shifting. And i ride only up to 5ft gear for the first 1000km.

I found out that now my riding with ECO mode style had lesser torqy than i experienced the first week i bought the bike. But i dont really care as long it still punchy and still can beat any grab/panda rider at trafficlight launcing. Like i said before my bike depend on my mood, i also noticed if i ride calmly follow the ECO mode, my bike kinda having notiacble vibration when i try to speed up above 120kmh (where the ECo mode ended). But if i push shifting 5000rpm above especially 4th gear up, it run smoother less vibration noticeable.

I prefer less vibration, not lugging but not too high revving, i might skip the early torque. This early torque also can be noticed when we enter 1st gear clunking, mine not too clunking nowaday, means less early torque. I prefer this way.

I suffer fuel economic pushing 5000rpm above. Rm20 only get 200km compare lower rpm 3000-4000rpm 240km approximately.

I think its nothing to worry about, because most ecu nowaday is learning ecu. The ECU that followed our mood or riding style. Nothing to do with mechanical loose or piston wear off. It happened to modern cars the same way. I hate driving my wife's taxi because i will feel sluggish few days before it learned my rushing style.

Some may not agree, i might choose quick throttle when my ride or car sluggish and need open throttle or high rpm to catch torque. I did use throttle controller module (adjust wired throttle pedal become stages quick throttle) in my diesel engine 4x4 because turbo lag delay. This is MT monster torque bike, long throttle opening may tame the bike better i belive.

Just for sharing, another week passed, after almost exhausted tips and tricks, i stay with shifting 4000 to 5000rpm is best to tone down consistant ticking and avoid intermittent ticking while idling. My odo should reach 6000km by this weekend and time for oil change. I believed manual and dealers would agree to keep it below 5000rpm for the first 1000km but they dont tell what is the best rpm. Since torque feeling almost there for the entire range 1300++rpm to top 10,000 rpm, we might shift as lower as 2000rpm even though the manual said peak torque is 6500rpm but awkwardly too low shifting point. That doest help to get the best tone down yamatick too. I had tried many range of shifting after 1000km breaking period and found out the best for my bike yamatick is shifting 4000 to 5000 rpm until 5th gear and 6th gear only when needed on highway. By doing this i also got a better sound of down shifting. I like the stock exhaust sound bass between popping and not popping.i f i do 3000 to 4000rpm riding, entire shifiting and down shift i only heard ticks and sewing machine sound. By the way i got OBDII connected Bluetooth to my Car Sanner Pro App on my phone while riding at least i can put sound to alarm me on my setup shifting point and temperature. Hope that helps who ever try to get the best Yamatick sound.

Yes kinda crazy to have OBDII scanner on board huhuhu. It is a bless to have this scanner selling cheap online. Long ago we need RSM rev speed meter and lines of gauges on dashboard to digest engine info and yet it doesn't analysed anything like we had in the App today. I consider having this on wheels like we had fitness watch on our wrist.