I plan to do 3 dedicated wirings at either 32A or 40A to support 2 hobs and 1 oven, rated 7400W, 5800W and 9300W respectively. Currently looking for high quality cooker connection unit (ccu)/plate to connect the hob to the on/off switch and then to the power source. Seems like ccu is not popular here. Any ccu that you have in mind and recommend? Or how the connection should be done?

Use 63A socket and 63A commando plug per device.
APEKS is affordable..then the atas brands one u can find them on element14. If all rated 63A then there's enough capacity on the whole system no need headache as one should not load the whole thing at redline..derating factor, voltage drop etc.

Switching these high current device need a 63A isolator. Good one and easily available, Schneider Kavacha or Legrand https://s.lazada.com.my/s.3Z9l0

Run dedicated lines from 63A isolator to the DB box. Add MCB, RCD, and maybe a DB box isolator too as necessary. You didn't specify if 3ph or 1ph device. Shall assume 3phase.

For the lower power rating devices IF single phase you can swap the isolator with a 45A switch instead. https://s.lazada.com.my/s.3ZmRh but this will not be usable for the 9300W one.

This sounds like commercial outfit more than something used at home. Wiring spec it for all 16mm² for everything then you can interchange position. If save cost some 10mm² some 16mm² also can but the 9300W device can only use at 16mm² point.

CCU for electrical cooking relatively unpopular here due to the economics of LPG gas tong being much more affordable.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 8 2021, 02:27 AM

Maybe you can try browsing RS online. I bought my 20A connection unit for my oven over there last time.

In consideration of using CEE socket and plug, for a device (hob) rated 25A, will it work if I wire the cable of the device to a 63A CEE plug and connect to 63A CEE socket? Or should I wire the cable of the device to a 32A CEE plug and connect to the 63A CEE socket?

Its a heavy topic but here explain quite well:
https://www.industrialextensionleads.co.uk/...plained-4-w.asp

I'll just summarise what I know lah:
Connector+Socket Size follow amps
Commando plug got size SML like T shirt according to the amp rating. U cannot plug a 32A M size into 63A L socket, wont fit.

Colour code follow voltage
Blue plug is for 230V supply, red plug use for 415V. Don't suka suka buy wrongly Coz factory use macam² config so colour match plug n socket wont go wrong for operators.

Extreme conditions IP67 rating follow the location
Using in kitchen, if its very oily or wet can use the IP67 rated stuff with additional twist lock ring. IP44 dry zone eg office use, just using the socket cap to "hang on" the plug as the retaining mechanism.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 1 2021, 05:48 PM

I see, the socket and the plug has to be the same amp. Based on my understanding on the page you shared and also in the context of Malaysia, if single phase, then blue plug and blue socket which is 3 pin, if it is 3 phase, then red plug and red socket which could be 4 or 5 pin. In my case, 3 phase, residential, how many pin should I go, 4 or 5?

Ultimately the determination will be based on the device (hob) input need 230V single phase or 415V 3 phase. This you need to check the hob sticker.

If hob is 230V single phase and provide standard 3 wire LNE, then you need:
1. a blue plug, 3 pins, 32A socket+32A plug, choose IP44 or IP67 rating depends on how heavy duty w.r.t. oil n water splash consideration.
2. LNE Cables from DB to connection unit sizing for 25A hob min. 4mm² (support up to 32A limit). Budget ada, can use 6mm² (marginally more expensive but runs cooler when loaded). Mega Kabel recommended. 4mm² x 3 roll 100m should be around 580-600 bucks already. But as you're installing a few high power device then it make more sense for full roll. Loose cut can get expensive.
3. PVC box or metal box big enough to install the CEE socket and isolator switch. Keep CEE socket out of easy reach of kids as the CEE socket is an industrial tool, not a residential socket, as its holes are big enough to poke finger into. ⚠️
4. Salzer on off switch with correct nominal load rating (32A or bigger) eg https://shopee.com.my/product/79031048/3576345371 in 32A, 2 pole version (cuts both L and N). E is wired direct from DB to socket.
5. MCB sizing to follow cable safe limit 32A = standard 1 pole MCB 32A needed. Recommend ABB or Hager but if you have another brand fitted in existing, best to follow so busbar can sit perfectly.
6. Additional busbar as necessary according to DB row where the MCB addition goes.

Only if the hob is 415V then need to modify the BOM accordingly.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 1 2021, 08:46 PM

I am trying to make the incoming wiring compatible for both ovens (32A 3 phase and 16A single phase), and the idea is to use the ovens interchangeably under the same socket. The wiring flow is MCB 3 phase > isolator > CEE red socket 5 pin > CEE red plug 5 pin > oven. Here is the power supply spec for both ovens.





For the 32A oven, should make the wiring as 3PH+PE instead of 3PH+N+PE so that the power source wiring will be compatible with the 16A oven. Does it work that way?

This post has been edited by ckl1998: Dec 3 2021, 09:37 PM

Ahh these are incompatible due to diff voltages. 415V oven red plug 5 pin. 230V use blue plug 3pin. You can sub an additional LNE for the 230V oven.

Here is the 3 phase wiring at isolator. If I take the live (red), earth (black) and neutral (green) only, and connect to a single phase oven, will it work? Assume if 3 phase at isolator, the output option can be 3 phase or single phase, if single phase at isolator, then output is only limited to single phase. Wonder my understanding is correct.



This post has been edited by ckl1998: Dec 4 2021, 02:43 PM

Yes correct, if taking only one live leg then it will be 230V single phase.
Which one of L1 L2 L3 to take, ideally should be the one with the lowest load. Your neutral wire will be within range if loads are balanced throughout L1 L2 L3.. if severely imbalanced like L1 63A, L2 5A, L3 5A it will be risky as the neutral gets hot.

Plug wise, I notice Schneider pin is different from the common CEE.

https://shopee.com.my/Schneider-Electric-S5...WYaAmhjEALw_wcB

https://my.element14.com/mk/k9045-red/main-...ART-ALLPRO-TEST

Or the Schneider is actually 4 pin CEE?

The Schneider one is 5pin S56 not common CEE. Lain cerita boss.
Easier to follow CEE "pins in a circle" socket. Commonly available at electrical supply store. You use S56 not everyone carry.

You can use the same 5 way plug for the ovens (big and small) and wire them as necessary. This means you can use any oven at any socket. No problem doing it this way.

I was thinking of using an interlocked switched socket instead of an isolator paired with a CEE socket. The isolator and the socket are just next to each other. However, I was told that individual isolator and socket give more flexibility in case there is any modification in future. Make sense?

Interlocked (eg Gewiss/Mennekes) stuff technically is the best way for integrated all-in-one solution the only downside is that its lah (as compared to the more economical fixed isolator switch, or (CEE socket-only + Salzer isolator switch) methods)

It depends on whether it is "always plugged in, hardly move around, likely not being shifted much in 10 years" or you will reconfigure the kitchen often. If you change kitchen layout every year then might want to run a sub DB at kitchen then branch out the sockets accordingly. I think its not much difference in terms of reconfiguring socket positions-- the problem would not be so much as whether it is interlocked sockets or fixed isolator --but rather than you're stuck with whatever wire length you put in.

Nevertheless, observing the blue plug to blue socket (interlocked or otherwise) and red plug to red socket; i.e. 230 to 230V, and 415 to 415V idiotproofing is very important. the consequences of boomz is real.

Buy the common red 3ph and blue1ph
Easily available everywhere. Next time want to change wiring also easier

Out of curiosity, you doing commercial kitchen kah
Have to hide the commando plug behind, else look weird and hard to clean. Else stick to 45a oven switch easier

Any other cheaper brand for interlocked switched socket, come across this brand OPS, seems cheaper, is it a China brand?

Affordable brand better take APEKS. Better quality.

U can get it from them
http://profactosolution.com.my/product/93/...stribution.html
http://profactosolution.com.my/product/90/...tch-socket.html

Notice the vertical interlocked socket is bulkier than horizontal for similar rating, and is more common. In what condition vertical and horizontal are used? Mine is home kitchen, now wired and point ready. Which option will be less ugly and more elegant 1) vertical interlocked, 2) horizontal interlocked, 3) isolator + CEE wall socket (beneath isolator)? Any comment?