not here but in China (from douyin, china tiktok), lots of 4s service centre using these before changing oil.

a placebo effect or it is effective? dont think so any noticeable difference but might be useful in the long run?

If you always maintain your ride the correct way and use good quality oil all these oil additives or flush is extra money for the mechanic only. Oversea some people drive extended range (Over 15~20k only change oil), use poor quality oil or fuel which may increase the carbon/sludge formation in engine for long term, so when they go for servicing usually those mechanic will try to sell these flush or engine treatment as a way to increase their income.

https://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive...article9624076/

http://mygarageairdrie.ca/services-pricing...kcase-flushing/

This post has been edited by littlefire: Aug 20 2021, 10:56 AM

There are good and bad with using these. You cannot use it too frequently as it has corrosive agents that will spoil your rubber seals.

In my previous 2 cars (Toyota and Honda), I used their recommended engine flush cause they always up sell you this product in SC. The Toyota one I used for over 12 years and engine has no problem. No seals issue except for the flywheel oil seal which is common.

As for the Honda, even better. After 8 years the engine is still very silent.

Is it due to the engine flush or is it due to consistent engine oil change? I wouldn't know.

Maybe do it every 2 times you change engine oil. I am doing this but so far only done once cause seldom drive during MCO.

I understand some people get issue (like leaks) after doing it for the first time on their old car. I am not sure if you can blame it on the engine flush cause the car itself already have issue. The engine flush only bring out the problem. So it is up to you to decide.

I flush everytime I change engine oil bec engine is more responsive after. Personal experience

To be honest I do use engine flush like once every 2nd or 3rd OCI, never had a problem and my engines always running relatively clean but I also use trusted good oils and never had bad sludge build up, so the whatever minor gunk removed must have been disolved well without clogging elsewhere.

The engine flush I used was like a thin oil cleaner which still has lubricating properties, bought in Ace Hardware, forgot the brand but made in USA and sold in a clear plastic bottle so can see how the liquid is.

Read that some el-cheapo pomen/users use diesel to do engine flush. Not sure what kind of issues it can cause but could be some old recipe used since old times.

sometimes I feel, there will be users spending that money on engine flush, then look for cheapest engine oil in the market instead of buying the best oil with that money.

then, many people believe what they choose to believe.

even some good oil sellers, will have a disclaimer, that using their oil will dissolve old gunk and cause oil leak.

correct OCI beats any remedies.

What about when user got a second hand car? Not sure what is the condition of the engine and want to clean it a bit without spending extra money doing overhaul. Engine cleaner is a product that has been recommended by nearly all car manufacturers. We are not talking about things like seafoam or voltage stabilizer or grounding cables or camber nut. These are things that car manufacturer does not introduce for a reason. But nearly all car manufacturers does have their own brand of engine cleaner and recommend them as well. If you say, ya they are useless then do you believe in camber nut? Nearly all car manufacturers does not comes with camber nut. It's not due to cost because it is only few ringgit per nut. Also, they will never recommend you do camber nut if you tell them your alignment is off.

Like I said, we all want to believe what we want to... I'm not saying right or wrong, it's about how you use it. Adding to that, there are different types of flushes, solvent vs detergent, and a blend of both. I read this some time ago, published in 2017: https://blog.amsoil.com/is-an-engine-flush-good-or-bad/

I will use engine flush, but certain types, and only when I need it, not every oil change.

There are more reasons why camber nuts are not installed per standard, than just cost. Think bigger. In fact, Toyota makes camber nut for certain vehicles: https://parts.toyota.com/productSearch.aspx...archTerm=camber


This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 11 2021, 04:56 PM

the only flushing I want but no more available nowaday is this.


come in 4L pack, so u drain old oil first, then close back the oil filter, fill up all 4L. run the engine about 10-15 minutes, drain it then put new oil.

unfortunately it no more here,

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Sep 12 2021, 08:29 PM

never had flushing on my car with 175k km now, all this only regular FS oil change after 10k km. Engine still sound quiet, no EO eating issue

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Sep 12 2021, 08:23 PM

Rather buy and use the best fully synthetic oil instead

Its contain solvent for sludge. If old engine some sludge already block the minor leak. When use this the leak open back.

cena 4s center use on left hand drive CKD cars? not same with CKD here

Actually can just use some cheap mineral oil, that's what I used to do. I drained the old oil, filled up with new cheap mineral oil plus an engine flush, idle it for 30 mins. Drained it again then would see how dirty that new oil became. Then I even refilled again with the cheap oil, idle for 15 mins and drained it again. By then usually the drained oil already golden clean. Then only I put a new filter and the real oil I want to use. But now lazy already so I don't do that anymore.

This post has been edited by 6UE5T: Sep 13 2021, 12:28 PM

I am going to do something like this.

- pour in engine flush into old oil and let is run for 15 min. Then drain the oil
- pour in cheap fully synthetic oil (Bold) and use the car for 1 week
- drain cheap oil and put in new Shell synthetic oil. And new oil filter.

LOL...a bit more work but something I am experimenting...

Hmm running for a week using cheap unknown oil is risky IMHO. You need to use at least trusted brand oil within the range of viscosity for your engine.

the second part, I would suggest using a mineral HDEO instead.
Eg. Rimula R4X, BHP Trans Super, Petronas Urania

Just use quality synthetic engine oil and change it as per maintenance schedule, never have to use flushing oil, unless you like to flush your money down the drain.

flushing additives just strip off all the seasoned in oil film oil areas , each time metal to metal again

sounds stupid

Thanks for the suggestions. Will look into those suggested oil. For now, I am going to use same viscosity 0w20 fully synthetic Bold or Mizu oil as the cheap oil.

Oh, if viscosity is a concern, then these HDEOs might not meet your purpose, coz they are usually SAE 15W40

Later give ur review for Mizu 0w20. Currently on Honda 0w20, great oil but once reached 7k km per interval, it start feeling like some weight on the engine. Even from new and services it at sc.

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Sep 16 2021, 12:20 PM

just to confirm it is fully synthetic right?
if yes then maybe let service centre check obd stats on the oxy sensor , MAF and throttlebody

It's not as bad as you think. I have had my old car send to SC for 8 years. Each time they will do the engine flush. Engine was still quiet the day I sold it. First buyer saw the car and bought immediately.

What about your horror story in using engine flush? Mind sharing?

which brand is that? afaik honda sc won't allow for flushing even they sell the flushing oil. u add that they will put a remark on the invoice saying customer demand for flushing

It's exactly Honda. And they always ask if want to do the flushing. Maybe new SOP they don't do anymore but that time they will happily do for you.

I never used it, because checking the contents , they are solvents , which does at it says dissolves everything, places should dissolve and places shouldn't dissolve

Just regular oil change with good oil is enough to make engine last looongggg time, just looks at new car warranties with all these tiny turbo engines pushed to max, no qualms offering you 5 years warranty as long oil changed according manual.

same practice but my concern was if put the flushing oil, how to ensure it removes 100% from the engine? Old Oil threw out either using a sucking airpower machine or opening the bolt below the engine. my mind saying that the air sucking suck all oil better than gravity oil out from the bottom bolt.

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Sep 18 2021, 12:43 PM

.

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Sep 18 2021, 12:42 PM

More oomph HDEO (diesel) id recommend caltex delo 400/delo gold, or mobil delvac mx, but u can use those u recommended as well. Should have an older API Sx standard. Good enough for flushing as diesel oil clean better.

Is your honda using R20A3 engine? (Old Accord)
User manual says Xw30, SC uses Xw20......

Using the right oil & filter, and change within the recommended interval (5k mineral, 7k semi, 10k full)

2.4 2015, Earthdream engine. Manual mentioned 0w20

Different engine......but thanks for sharing

I myself use Duron hehe...

that's another good point, the flushing solvent will never be removed fully, just contaminating the new oil again

Which type of HDEO should we look for when using it for flushing purposes? Any required API spec?
Would it matter to pick either semi synth or fully synth?

Basically affordable HDEO from name brand oil mfg ok liao. 18L tub delo400 only around rm209 direct from distributor

I really wanted to flush the myvi i am driving. Its 12 years old. Engine is fine without any weird noise or oil burning problems. But there is a leak that is common in myvi of this generation that is the housing seal that connects from engine to the oil filter. Even my mechanic does not recommend me to flush for simple reasons that a lot of seals are worn and might be corroded further and cause more leaks from other places if aggressive detergents is used.

For an engine that got sludge issue before? Recommend to use engine flush? Coz got one time late for service (time, not mileage) then end up sludge..

This post has been edited by Boy96: Sep 19 2021, 07:40 PM

Why not flush and get all the worn seals replaced, and you'll have a very healthy engine that's good to go for another 12 years?

Just only 1 time late for service won't cause sludge problem.

How late was the service and the oil mileage use that time?

had a brand new car back then and drove until 300k km all with FS oil change. 10k km interval under warranty period, 15k km right after. No issues as EO eating problem and all without flushing oil/ oil treatment etc.

Slightly over 1 year from last service, mileage did around 9k km

What car? If it's a naturally aspirated engine, it should be fine..

If it's turbo, then that's not a good practice.

Suprima. Yes turbocharged. Already 2x change engine oil after the sludge issue but didnt flush, just did regular change, thats why wondering if i should flush the next oil change or not to completely get rid of the sludge

My advice is don't flush. If you flush, the gunk might get trapped in the oil pick-up tube which will disrupt the oil flow to the entire engine.

Only do a flush when you plan to remove and clean the oil pan and oil pick-up tube. Else, just do the normally oil change will do.

For me, I would change the engine oil on that Sperma every 5-6000 km and run fully synthetic in it since fully synthetic oil are quite affordable nowadays. No need to go for Motul or other fancy oil.

Agree, for turbocharge engine usually it is more better to change it early compare to N/A engine due to higher heat.
Besides that if not mistaken this proton turbo engine got history of oil treatment causing issues. If possible dont mix any oil treatment and buy only quality engine oil to replace.
Get the one with higher detergent engine oil like Shell, Penzoil, Caltex, or premium oil like Amsoil Signature.

This post has been edited by littlefire: Sep 20 2021, 10:02 AM

yes the car has been on fully synthetic since new, since that sludge issue I now change the EO every 6 months despite only travelling around 3-4k km

Because it takes time and money to change all those things. Its not just the rubber seals. The adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" comes to play here.

Changing engine oil seals means top overhaul already. By that time no need to flush..already open up the top engine can do cleaning already.

You have 2 ways of approaching this.

cheap and safe way - using good full synthetic engine oil with good cleaning additives. Use it for 1 week and try going into highway do some highspeed run within speed limit. Flush out the oil and see the oil condition. If it's dirty then do another round.

cheap and potentially harmful (though I don't think it's that harmful like "don't do drugs") - that is using engine flush. But do it sparingly. Flush with the old oil in it. Run the engine for 5 minutes. Then flush out the old oil and put in new oil. Run the oil for 15 min then flush OR run it for 1 week then change to another new oil. If you see the oil still dirty then can try changing another time after 1 week. But remember to use engine flush only once. If that solve your sludge problem then you are good but know that it won't be 100%. Clean enough is what you want.

more proper way and expensive - you can try the above method first but if you are not comfortable using engine flush with all the horror stories depicted here, you can straightaway do this. Do top overhaul to clean up the sludge. If it's bad case then you might need to do full overhaul. The price depending on the car and how bad is the engine condition.

I can understand this. That's why I tried to rejuvenate the o-rings and seals using ATP AT-205 Reseal to restore these rubber parts. Did wonders to my 4g92 SOHC oil pump o-ring, and PS pump o-rings. This shit does work and can find it in local online marketplace (2-3yrs ago).

Lower block slight leak stopped 2-3days after treatment. Knew it was engine oil pump o-ring coz changed it about 6-7yrs ago with exact same leak point. That time, the o-ring turned brittle after >10yrs of service. Now after 4-5 oil changes, the o-ring still is working fine.

As for the PS pump, it was a chopshop part the my mech sourced, so unknown age. After 3-4yrs of service, PSF started weeping out from seams. Even the PSF hose joints got some wet points after 20yrs of service. Same as EO pump o-ring case, leaks stopped after 2-3days of treatment. As it is mixed with PSF, didn't bother to change out PSF-AT205 mix even after 2+yrs.

I don't think EO cleaning/detergency additive(s) work this way. It is a NOT quick fix that most people hope for.

Just sharing that I used CI/CI+ HDEOs in my 21yrs old engine to flush/clean grime accumulated over the years. And for sure it wasn't a 15-30mins drive-it-on-highway job. It needed over 4-5 oil changes to see the effect. And it won't be squeaky clean like day 1. I stopped using HDEO for the time being coz can find other budget EO online that give value for money.

FS EO can do too, but I don't think the super cheap FS that you can find online will work. FS PCMO that I know will work is SHU and Mobil 1 0W-40, coz these were proven to clean when I got them cheap. Again, they don't work as fast as most will want to see, like in 30mins.

Yes. Changing better EO is for sure not a quick fix but lower risk compare to engine flush.
The EO cleaning/detergent will need time to work by scrapping bit by bit of the sludge trapping them in oil before sending it to the oil filter or pan below.
Just imagine if the sludge break off in big piece and stuck in some oil passage.. GG your engine bro..

I see. Good to know.

Never had sludge issues before as I change oils religiously once a year or when it reaches the specified mileage, whichever comes first. Although there are tests which proved that there are fully synthetic oils that can last more than a year, I just do it anyway cuz it's easier to keep track when you do oil changes for all your cars together at the same time. And hey, oil change is really cheap compared to the repercussions of poor oil change habits.

Good info. Just that nowadays all come with turbo engine which is maybe hotter in operation vs na, stick to manufacturers recommended service intervals is a must. Dont use any oil treatment for reliability sake.

I know last time Proton come out with memo saying the bad effect on any use of oil treatment for their cfe engine. Whereas their sc selling that treatment. Now no more already for Proton. But Honda sc now doing hard selling this oil treatment and fuel additive at sc per service appointment

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Sep 21 2021, 06:46 AM

Just to add that I do not use any treatment or flush myself actually. Just let good engine oils do the work haha.

As for Honda SC, that's because they get commission for these items. But not for things like sanitization, which I see a lot of people complain about. There is actually no profit made at all for the sanitization, just purely for safety purposes.

Personally, if the engine already has signs of sludge build up, I would avoid flushing as mentioned in earlier posts. The flush will partially break down the sludge and bring them down to the pan, but this when pumped back up might block the small passages eg. the variable valve mechanisms' passageways and cause more serious/expensive repairs.

If the sludge build up is bad and its already due for a major service, a strip down with manual cleaning of each component would be my choice. Otherwise, I'll shorten my oil change intervals with good engine oil with hopes that the blended cleaning agents will slowly erode the gunk off.

Good information. The EO flushing method like I said drive for 1 week at least then flush out the oil and see the condition. Also some highway runs too if possible. Or drive like normal if your daily drive have highways. This will allow you to see the engine condition without taking out the cover. Repeat as needed. If the engine oil is dirty then change oil more often until you are satisfied with the result. By that time, if all is good, back to normal oil changing interval. When it already have lots of carbon build-up, normal interval with good quality oil will not help already. Need it change oil more often. Unless you want to try Royal Purple oil.