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 engine oil flush additive, seems like a norm in future

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netmatrix
post Sep 19 2021, 04:12 PM

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I really wanted to flush the myvi i am driving. Its 12 years old. Engine is fine without any weird noise or oil burning problems. But there is a leak that is common in myvi of this generation that is the housing seal that connects from engine to the oil filter. Even my mechanic does not recommend me to flush for simple reasons that a lot of seals are worn and might be corroded further and cause more leaks from other places if aggressive detergents is used.


Boy96
post Sep 19 2021, 07:39 PM

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For an engine that got sludge issue before? Recommend to use engine flush? Coz got one time late for service (time, not mileage) then end up sludge..

This post has been edited by Boy96: Sep 19 2021, 07:40 PM
HalseyFrangipane
post Sep 20 2021, 02:07 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Sep 19 2021, 04:12 PM)
I really wanted to flush the myvi i am driving. Its 12 years old. Engine is fine without any weird noise or oil burning problems. But there is a leak that is common in myvi of this generation that is the housing seal that connects from engine to the oil filter. Even my mechanic does not recommend me to flush for simple reasons that a lot of seals are worn and might be corroded further and cause more leaks from other places if aggressive detergents is used.
*
Why not flush and get all the worn seals replaced, and you'll have a very healthy engine that's good to go for another 12 years?
Thrust
post Sep 20 2021, 06:27 AM

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QUOTE(Boy96 @ Sep 19 2021, 07:39 PM)
For an engine that got sludge issue before? Recommend to use engine flush? Coz got one time late for service (time, not mileage) then end up sludge..
*
Just only 1 time late for service won't cause sludge problem.

How late was the service and the oil mileage use that time?
ayamxxx
post Sep 20 2021, 07:59 AM

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QUOTE(HalseyFrangipane @ Sep 20 2021, 02:07 AM)
Why not flush and get all the worn seals replaced, and you'll have a very healthy engine that's good to go for another 12 years?
*
had a brand new car back then and drove until 300k km all with FS oil change. 10k km interval under warranty period, 15k km right after. No issues as EO eating problem and all without flushing oil/ oil treatment etc.
Boy96
post Sep 20 2021, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 20 2021, 06:27 AM)
Just only 1 time late for service won't cause sludge problem.

How late was the service and the oil mileage use that time?
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Slightly over 1 year from last service, mileage did around 9k km
Thrust
post Sep 20 2021, 09:13 AM

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QUOTE(Boy96 @ Sep 20 2021, 08:38 AM)
Slightly over 1 year from last service, mileage did around 9k km
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What car? If it's a naturally aspirated engine, it should be fine..

If it's turbo, then that's not a good practice.
Boy96
post Sep 20 2021, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 20 2021, 09:13 AM)
What car? If it's a naturally aspirated engine, it should be fine..

If it's turbo, then that's not a good practice.
*
Suprima. Yes turbocharged. Already 2x change engine oil after the sludge issue but didnt flush, just did regular change, thats why wondering if i should flush the next oil change or not to completely get rid of the sludge
Thrust
post Sep 20 2021, 09:21 AM

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QUOTE(Boy96 @ Sep 20 2021, 09:17 AM)
Suprima. Yes turbocharged. Already 2x change engine oil after the sludge issue but didnt flush, just did regular change, thats why wondering if i should flush the next oil change or not to completely get rid of the sludge
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My advice is don't flush. If you flush, the gunk might get trapped in the oil pick-up tube which will disrupt the oil flow to the entire engine.

Only do a flush when you plan to remove and clean the oil pan and oil pick-up tube. Else, just do the normally oil change will do.

For me, I would change the engine oil on that Sperma every 5-6000 km and run fully synthetic in it since fully synthetic oil are quite affordable nowadays. No need to go for Motul or other fancy oil.


littlefire
post Sep 20 2021, 10:01 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 20 2021, 10:21 AM)
My advice is don't flush. If you flush, the gunk might get trapped in the oil pick-up tube which will disrupt the oil flow to the entire engine.

Only do a flush when you plan to remove and clean the oil pan and oil pick-up tube. Else, just do the normally oil change will do.

For me, I would change the engine oil on that Sperma every 5-6000 km and run fully synthetic in it since fully synthetic oil are quite affordable nowadays. No need to go for Motul or other fancy oil.
*
Agree, for turbocharge engine usually it is more better to change it early compare to N/A engine due to higher heat.
Besides that if not mistaken this proton turbo engine got history of oil treatment causing issues. If possible dont mix any oil treatment and buy only quality engine oil to replace.
Get the one with higher detergent engine oil like Shell, Penzoil, Caltex, or premium oil like Amsoil Signature.

This post has been edited by littlefire: Sep 20 2021, 10:02 AM
Boy96
post Sep 20 2021, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(Thrust @ Sep 20 2021, 09:21 AM)
My advice is don't flush. If you flush, the gunk might get trapped in the oil pick-up tube which will disrupt the oil flow to the entire engine.

Only do a flush when you plan to remove and clean the oil pan and oil pick-up tube. Else, just do the normally oil change will do.

For me, I would change the engine oil on that Sperma every 5-6000 km and run fully synthetic in it since fully synthetic oil are quite affordable nowadays. No need to go for Motul or other fancy oil.
*
yes the car has been on fully synthetic since new, since that sludge issue I now change the EO every 6 months despite only travelling around 3-4k km
netmatrix
post Sep 20 2021, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(HalseyFrangipane @ Sep 20 2021, 02:07 AM)
Why not flush and get all the worn seals replaced, and you'll have a very healthy engine that's good to go for another 12 years?
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Because it takes time and money to change all those things. Its not just the rubber seals. The adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" comes to play here.
abubin
post Sep 20 2021, 11:19 AM

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QUOTE(HalseyFrangipane @ Sep 20 2021, 02:07 AM)
Why not flush and get all the worn seals replaced, and you'll have a very healthy engine that's good to go for another 12 years?
*
Changing engine oil seals means top overhaul already. By that time no need to flush..already open up the top engine can do cleaning already.

You have 2 ways of approaching this.

cheap and safe way - using good full synthetic engine oil with good cleaning additives. Use it for 1 week and try going into highway do some highspeed run within speed limit. Flush out the oil and see the oil condition. If it's dirty then do another round.

cheap and potentially harmful (though I don't think it's that harmful like "don't do drugs") - that is using engine flush. But do it sparingly. Flush with the old oil in it. Run the engine for 5 minutes. Then flush out the old oil and put in new oil. Run the oil for 15 min then flush OR run it for 1 week then change to another new oil. If you see the oil still dirty then can try changing another time after 1 week. But remember to use engine flush only once. If that solve your sludge problem then you are good but know that it won't be 100%. Clean enough is what you want.

more proper way and expensive - you can try the above method first but if you are not comfortable using engine flush with all the horror stories depicted here, you can straightaway do this. Do top overhaul to clean up the sludge. If it's bad case then you might need to do full overhaul. The price depending on the car and how bad is the engine condition.


speedy3210
post Sep 20 2021, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Sep 20 2021, 10:28 AM)
Because it takes time and money to change all those things. Its not just the rubber seals. The adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" comes to play here.
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I can understand this. That's why I tried to rejuvenate the o-rings and seals using ATP AT-205 Reseal to restore these rubber parts. Did wonders to my 4g92 SOHC oil pump o-ring, and PS pump o-rings. This shit does work and can find it in local online marketplace (2-3yrs ago).

Lower block slight leak stopped 2-3days after treatment. Knew it was engine oil pump o-ring coz changed it about 6-7yrs ago with exact same leak point. That time, the o-ring turned brittle after >10yrs of service. Now after 4-5 oil changes, the o-ring still is working fine.

As for the PS pump, it was a chopshop part the my mech sourced, so unknown age. After 3-4yrs of service, PSF started weeping out from seams. Even the PSF hose joints got some wet points after 20yrs of service. Same as EO pump o-ring case, leaks stopped after 2-3days of treatment. As it is mixed with PSF, didn't bother to change out PSF-AT205 mix even after 2+yrs.
speedy3210
post Sep 20 2021, 12:04 PM

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QUOTE(abubin @ Sep 20 2021, 11:19 AM)

cheap and safe way - using good full synthetic engine oil with good cleaning additives. Use it for 1 week and try going into highway do some highspeed run within speed limit. Flush out the oil and see the oil condition. If it's dirty then do another round.

*
I don't think EO cleaning/detergency additive(s) work this way. It is a NOT quick fix that most people hope for.

Just sharing that I used CI/CI+ HDEOs in my 21yrs old engine to flush/clean grime accumulated over the years. And for sure it wasn't a 15-30mins drive-it-on-highway job. It needed over 4-5 oil changes to see the effect. And it won't be squeaky clean like day 1. I stopped using HDEO for the time being coz can find other budget EO online that give value for money.

FS EO can do too, but I don't think the super cheap FS that you can find online will work. FS PCMO that I know will work is SHU and Mobil 1 0W-40, coz these were proven to clean when I got them cheap. Again, they don't work as fast as most will want to see, like in 30mins.

littlefire
post Sep 20 2021, 12:25 PM

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QUOTE(speedy3210 @ Sep 20 2021, 01:04 PM)
I don't think EO cleaning/detergency additive(s) work this way. It is a NOT quick fix that most people hope for.

Just sharing that I used CI/CI+ HDEOs in my 21yrs old engine to flush/clean grime accumulated over the years. And for sure it wasn't a 15-30mins drive-it-on-highway job. It needed over 4-5 oil changes to see the effect. And it won't be squeaky clean like day 1. I stopped using HDEO for the time being coz can find other budget EO online that give value for money.

FS EO can do too, but I don't think the super cheap FS that you can find online will work. FS PCMO that I know will work is SHU and Mobil 1 0W-40, coz these were proven to clean when I got them cheap. Again, they don't work as fast as most will want to see, like in 30mins.
*
Yes. Changing better EO is for sure not a quick fix but lower risk compare to engine flush.
The EO cleaning/detergent will need time to work by scrapping bit by bit of the sludge trapping them in oil before sending it to the oil filter or pan below.
Just imagine if the sludge break off in big piece and stuck in some oil passage.. GG your engine bro..
HalseyFrangipane
post Sep 20 2021, 09:59 PM

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QUOTE(ayamxxx @ Sep 20 2021, 07:59 AM)
had a brand new car back then and drove until 300k km all with FS oil change. 10k km interval under warranty period, 15k km right after. No issues as EO eating problem and all without flushing oil/ oil treatment etc.
*
QUOTE(netmatrix @ Sep 20 2021, 10:28 AM)
Because it takes time and money to change all those things. Its not just the rubber seals. The adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" comes to play here.
*
QUOTE(abubin @ Sep 20 2021, 11:19 AM)
Changing engine oil seals means top overhaul already. By that time no need to flush..already open up the top engine can do cleaning already.

You have 2 ways of approaching this.

cheap and safe way - using good full synthetic engine oil with good cleaning additives. Use it for 1 week and try going into highway do some highspeed run within speed limit. Flush out the oil and see the oil condition. If it's dirty then do another round.

cheap and potentially harmful (though I don't think it's that harmful like "don't do drugs")  - that is using engine flush. But do it sparingly. Flush with the old oil in it. Run the engine for 5 minutes. Then flush out the old oil and put in new oil. Run the oil for 15 min then flush OR run it for 1 week then change to another new oil. If you see the oil still dirty then can try changing another time after 1 week. But remember to use engine flush only once. If that solve your sludge problem then you are good but know that it won't be 100%. Clean enough is what you want.

more proper way and expensive - you can try the above method first but if you are not comfortable using engine flush with all the horror stories depicted here, you can straightaway do this. Do top overhaul to clean up the sludge. If it's bad case then you might need to do full overhaul. The price depending on the car and how bad is the engine condition.
*
I see. Good to know.

Never had sludge issues before as I change oils religiously once a year or when it reaches the specified mileage, whichever comes first. Although there are tests which proved that there are fully synthetic oils that can last more than a year, I just do it anyway cuz it's easier to keep track when you do oil changes for all your cars together at the same time. And hey, oil change is really cheap compared to the repercussions of poor oil change habits.
ayamxxx
post Sep 21 2021, 06:44 AM

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QUOTE(HalseyFrangipane @ Sep 20 2021, 09:59 PM)
I see. Good to know.

Never had sludge issues before as I change oils religiously once a year or when it reaches the specified mileage, whichever comes first. Although there are tests which proved that there are fully synthetic oils that can last more than a year, I just do it anyway cuz it's easier to keep track when you do oil changes for all your cars together at the same time. And hey, oil change is really cheap compared to the repercussions of poor oil change habits.
*
Good info. Just that nowadays all come with turbo engine which is maybe hotter in operation vs na, stick to manufacturers recommended service intervals is a must. Dont use any oil treatment for reliability sake.

I know last time Proton come out with memo saying the bad effect on any use of oil treatment for their cfe engine. Whereas their sc selling that treatment. Now no more already for Proton. But Honda sc now doing hard selling this oil treatment and fuel additive at sc per service appointment

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Sep 21 2021, 06:46 AM
HalseyFrangipane
post Sep 21 2021, 07:33 AM

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QUOTE(ayamxxx @ Sep 21 2021, 06:44 AM)
Good info. Just that nowadays all come with turbo engine which is maybe hotter in operation vs na, stick to manufacturers recommended service intervals is a must. Dont use any oil treatment for reliability sake.

I know last time Proton come out with memo saying the bad effect on any use of oil treatment for their cfe engine. Whereas their sc selling that treatment. Now no more already for Proton. But Honda sc now doing hard selling this oil treatment and fuel additive at sc per service appointment
*
Just to add that I do not use any treatment or flush myself actually. Just let good engine oils do the work haha.

As for Honda SC, that's because they get commission for these items. But not for things like sanitization, which I see a lot of people complain about. There is actually no profit made at all for the sanitization, just purely for safety purposes.
Deja Vu
post Sep 21 2021, 08:58 AM

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Personally, if the engine already has signs of sludge build up, I would avoid flushing as mentioned in earlier posts. The flush will partially break down the sludge and bring them down to the pan, but this when pumped back up might block the small passages eg. the variable valve mechanisms' passageways and cause more serious/expensive repairs.

If the sludge build up is bad and its already due for a major service, a strip down with manual cleaning of each component would be my choice. Otherwise, I'll shorten my oil change intervals with good engine oil with hopes that the blended cleaning agents will slowly erode the gunk off.

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