Hi. I am in the middle of renovation now and since FMCO, everything is stopped as of now. Since free lately, I went and spot check the house.

I tested the water heater. Basically I on the switch and put the temperature to max for 2-3 min, the water heater is not producing enough heat for the water. Its like slightly extra on top of warm water. Temperate which won't burn your skin. I tested both of the water heater and its same result. Brand of the water heater is Faber Water Heater Pebbles.

Is the water heater faulty?

By the way my unit is a condo unit.

Any idea or suggestion?

Thanks.

i would think that either ur water heater faulty or ur water pump too strong (i.e. your heater is unable to heat the water fast enough before it actually pumps out)

when water flow is very high, there isnt enough time to heat the water.

normal for 3.6-3.8kw models.

To test your theory, I believe there is one thing I can do which is to slow down the output of the water and try again whether does it heats up or not. Let me try and see how it works. Thanks for the suggestion! Appreciate it.

I believe one thing that I can try is to slow down the water and test whether does it heats up to the temperature or not. Let me try it out. Thanks for the input appreciate it!

3 factors that affects your output water temperature:

1. Water Heater's Heating Element - The higher the number, the hotter the output. Market most common ones are 3.6kW to 3.8kW. Besides these common ones, Joven has a 5.2kW model, Centon has 4.2kW and 5.4kW.

2. Input Water Temperature - The lower the input temperature, the lower the output temperature. Hence why raining season your output water is colder.

3. Water Flow - The faster the water flow, the lower the output temperature, because lesser contact time between heating element and input water flow. Hence why condos which high water flow (strong water pump) should use at least 4.2kW.


Got this table from Centon's website, u can refer to this, what kind of temperature rise (output - input temperature) you can expect with the heating element you are using, factoring in the water flow rate.




Hope this helps!

Definitely helps! Thanks for the input ya

Pretty normal for 3kW class heater especially with newer condo having pressurised water flow.

I actually reduced the (whole unit) main valve by 50pc (to lessen the chance of water leak due to too high pressure that occured to my neighbours piping) and also further reduce a bit of flow at the heater input valve to have it nice and warm at max heat setting.

Next question is why I didn't install 4.8kW class heater but installed 3kW class? Because developer wiring give ciplak 2.5mm² which is not up to spec for the 4.8kW class heater, redoing the concealed wiring is a headache.

Thanks for the input. Really learn something new on these water pressure and water heater combination on condo. Appreciate your input!

Exactly. Even SIRIM / Suruhanjaya Tenaga has already set in their guidelines that even the lowest 2.856kW to 5.711kW heaters needs to use 4.0mm² (a bit extreme for those below 4kW but oh well, above spec is better than below spec). Yet some developers can still get away with getting approval for installing a 2.5mm² cable for water heaters.

Any water heater will do. The most important thing is the hot piping is using the good quality type.