Dear ceo684, ozak, weikee and sifus,

Sorry for the super long post, I need some advise. Apologies again, I have to post some pics separately due to my restriction as newbie on LY. The more I speak to “contractors”, the more I’m picking up mixed messaged on how to proceed. Was hoping I may I get some advice on electrical related matters for my home renovation.

It’s a sub-sale house which is currently non-tenanted, double semi-D about 4000sf built up, 6 bedrooms.
Major reno done 2002. I was thinking of re-wiring my whole house, new DB and adding DB at 1st floor. Reno would also include piping (will post separately on this to get advise if needed to redo), retile whole GF, new built-in carpentry works, redo entire GF plaster ceiling, repainting whole house, roof tiles, windows/doors. No major structural works.
This home is for own family long term stay (>=20 yrs). 3 adults, 3 primary school going children

Some info on the reno/current status:
- It’s currently 3 phase
-Estimated reno to have about :
100 x downlights (mostly 4” indoor and 6” outdoor) – likely to get casing + LED bulb (9-11W)
65 x 13AMP sockets
6 x 15AMP or 20AMP for instant/storage heater for 6 bathrooms (15 or 20AMP?)

I’ve done quite a bit of reading and getting tips from you guys and other sifu’s posts, but a bit info overload especially when the topics becomes overly technical. May I humbly get advise on:
1. How do I determine if my current wiring and DB is fine and don’t need to spend a bomb to rewire + change DB + add DB? Or based on 20 years ago reno, I should just get it done?
Turning on lights and fans so far no issues, fast and immediate. Not sure if pics would help, this is the DB.



2. I spoke to a contractor 2 days back, he mentioned that to do change new DB and install new DB upstairs, I’ll have to call TNB to do it. Another electrician didn’t mention anything about TNB and quoted RM6500 (to replace current GF DB and to add new DB at 1st floor).
Is the TNB part true?
Is the quoted price “Reasonable”?
To be prepared with some knowledge of whether the electrician contractor are doing/recommending the safe/right way, is the below list what is required for 2 units DB (ground floor + 1st floor)?
* I hope I’m not creating a Frankenstein DB below, but no worries guys, I’m not gonna DIY at all, just wanting to make sure I have the right “internal organs” in the DB when I clarify with the electrician. Will be going for branded ones like Hager, ABB, Schneider (not that budget is not of concern, but when it comes to electrical, I believe must be willing to spend for safety)

Main switch x 2 DBs : is this main switch necessary (I see it in the existing DB, above pic)? I don’t see one in my current condo DB or those “full set DB sold on Lazada/shopee”.

RCCB : 63A, 4P, 300mA = RM145 x 2 DB = RM290 (is this known as the main RCCB to protect from fire/equipment protection?)
MCB : 3P, 40Amp, 6kA = RM65 x 2 DB = RM130 (what is the purpose of this thing?)
RCCB 25A /10mA x 6 heaters ; RM170 x 6 = RM1020 (this is for “life saving” shock protection right? Does each heater require additional MCB again on top of this RCCB? Sorry if it’s a silly question)

8 MCB for 8Airconds : Is this right? 1 MCB per AC?
2.5 HP x 2, 1.5HP x 6 What MCB rating should be used 16, 20 or 32A?

20 MCBs (6 or 10A?) for 65 (13amp sockets) = 20 x RM10 = RM200 (am I over/under estimating MCB’s required)
100 downlights = ?20 MCBs x RM10=RM200 (5 downlights to 1 direct DB, is it over or underestimation? Using 9-11W LED bulbs)

DB box x 2 = 30 ways + 45 ways? (Should I go for plastic or metal DB box?)

Should I invest in a T2 SPD?
tinyurl.com/m9kmxyms : Maxguard ok? Half the price of ABB
tinyurl.com/k78kbns7 : ABB

3. For cable thickness, is this recommended? :
Water heater : 2.5mm or 4mm?
AC / kitchen sockets (loose electrical appliance, built-in oven) : 2.5mm
Other sockets/lighting/fan : 1.5mm
4. Kitchen appliance, aside from built-in oven, fridge and electric hob, any other kitchen appliance would require a dedicated cable from DB? Eg. electric kettle, toaster, rice cooker, air fryer, coffee machine, non-built in microwave, LG puricare (hot/cold water purifier/dispenser)
(Assuming that 2-3 appliance likely used at same time, eg. electric kettle + rice cooker + air fryer)

4. For cable quality, I read a recent post by CE0684, to either go for:
caramay, Mega kabel (solid cables) ; Fajar cables ( flexicord). Any other brands I should "accept" if my contractor shows me other brands?
And from other sifu’s I read that, it must have at least SIRIM endorsed labelling and the specs on the cable

5. Last but not least, would you still use this existing storage heater + water pump?

All 6 bathrooms have existing joven 25L storage heater, which is at least 10-15 years old.
Would it be best to change all to new ones considering the wear and tear, heating element life span OR invest in solar heater (based on my calculation, cheaper than 6x25L joven storage heaters. Just concerned if my existing roof wood truss can handle 500kg)


Grundfos pump 7 years old – need to replace? Seem to be working, based on the sound I hear while in the roof and also 1-2 sinks I turned on had high pressure

Many many many thanks in advance for any advise/suggestions provided

A bit out of electrical topic, but since I’m sharing the pics of roof pics with the wood truss, should I be concerned with these rusted bolts and nuts holding the wood truss together? Contractor checked previously and mentioned roof wood truss ok, but advised to change all roof tiles + gutter (existing roof tile not done right and no gutter)

TQ putera. Yes, it should be ard 20 years old (previous owner reno in 2002/2003). For DB, I'm 99% sure I would change and add new one on 1st floor. Now thinking whether to change all cables/wires in the house

Read some senior forumers here like Ozak and weikee did new DB/2nd DB, no mention of TNB.....sounds like just need to"extend" the main TNB in the existing cable with ?16mm cable (unsure statement by me, as am saying this based on uncle's memory of what I read) to have a separate DB on 1st floor (ie GF and 1st Flr has their own DB).

I think the electrician mentioned need TNB panel contractors as the main 3 wires need to be pulled up to the 1st floor. maybe he meant any TNB certified electrician? Let's see what the "last" electrician I'm meeting tomorrow says

thanks again!

ceo684 TQVM for the advise & crash course The analogies you used really helped

Is it the same as this : ABB swtich disconnector ?
The electrician I met today asked if I wanted the new DB to have a main switch isolator OR upgrade (pay more) to have a MCCB instead. Is this necessary?
I thought it's 2 entirely different things, isn't it?

Aiks. I just checked my condo DB and it's using EPS 4P 63/0.3. Should I be concerned?


I don't understand the "up to XXm2 floor area" part. Does it mean if my living hall + work area = 25f x 25f = 625sf (pic below), all cables to my living and work area sockets should be 4mm?


Is there a public list of "SIRIM" approved cables? Can't find it on google
The electrician I'm keen to engage says he uses Eco brand cables, supposedly he claims is the same parent company as Caramay? : Eco cables
I'm planning to insist on Caramay or Mega Kable as per your suggestion. Pay more now, sleep better at night (I hope), but

Sorry boss....that's why offer peace offering of potato at the end
TQVM for your pointers!
Will not be relocating the TNB meter. Yup it's at the gate pillar. But, need to change the casing, it's rotted already. To change the case (pic below), looks like need to remove the main TNB cables right? Can electrician do this or need to call TNB (assuming I call TNB, all TNB will do is unplug it while my contractor change the casing and then TNB re plug it in?)


crazy ex right? To replace (GF + 1st floor) roof tiles + gutter + fascia boards (3920sf) whole house already quoted : RM50k. At least another RM30k-RM40k if for truss structure?
Reading into termites also giving my sleepless nights and decided to strip off the parquet which covers half the GF flooring and tile it up, but whole of 1st floor is parquet, planning to refurbish.
I noticed one particular kitchen cabinet previously had termite attack . Am planning to do 1 round of termite barrier with Agenda (Bayer) before tiling +/- sentricon system

ceo684 As mentioned above, so far I only noticed 1 GF kitchen wall cabinet had been damaged by termites, does that mean I should consider to change the wood truss to SS?
noted on the SS bolt/nut. TQ

This post has been edited by vernee26: May 11 2021, 10:46 PM

Sharing my ID company quotes, pending their reply on what kind of wires/sockets they are using

1) To supply & install 100A TPN Main Switch Board (MSB) and earthing system = RM6,500
2) To supply & install Distribution Board = RM4,000 per unit
RM6500 (replace new DB at GF) and add one new DB at 1st floor

9) Lighting points = RM100 per point
RM95

10) Ceiling Fan points = RM 100 per point
RM75

12) Wiring 13amp power points using 2 x 2.5 sq.mm PVC cables, earth cable and single gang 13A 3pin switch socket = RM 110 per point
RM130

13) Wiring A/C power point using 2 x 1.5 sq.mm PVC cables, earth cable c/w switch = RM 207 per point
ceo684 mentioned 2.5mm2 as minimum.
To supply and install AC point up to 1-2 HP : RM290
To supply and install AC point up to 2.5-3HP : RM380


14) Internet LAN port = RM 403 per point
Cat5e : RM260
Cat 6: RM360

15) To supply and install CP & 15A Power point in PVC conduit = RM 245.00 per point
what is CP?

16) To supply and install Auto Gate point in PVC/SWA/cable = RM 850.00
pending quote


RM67? I was quoted RM95 per lighting point


What is this? Is this armoured cable from the TNB meter to DB?


May I also know what is this for?
I pray that I don't need this, as looking at the price itself is making me sweat already.

I just realized my rewiring quotation did not itemize these items :

1. Cabling from TNB meter to DB - what are the cables referred to? Do I need to get this replaced as well? or its possible to exclude it and only do rewiring from DB to sockets/lightings/appliances?

2. Earthing rods - do these need changing?

They revised because of "raw material" price increase? RM52 to RM100 seems quite a big jump.
Yours is quoting based on Mega Kabel, the most expensive already =)
I'm still waiting for my primary contractor to revert on the brand of cables they are using, if it's some no brand/china cable, it's not a good comparison already.

If you are still actively looking for electrical quotes, you can try these 2 people ( I met them earlier this week for site survey and am waiting for their quote). I'll be insisting on using Caramay / Fajar cables with the new quotes :
Ah Hui : +60 12-228 4543 (my close friend recommended this guy. The friend also did major reno, knocked down except beams/pillars)
Chai (Kejuruteraan Letrik Cahaya Baru) : +012 219 7368 (he did repair works for me previously at my current condo, seemed honest and knows what he's doing)

Both nice young chaps (30s-40 years old), chinese speaking (which is a bit tough for me, as I'm half banana )

I noticed your list does not include (just in case you missed it out):
1. Water heater points?
2. Garden lights, gate pillar lights
3. installing lights, fans, AC
(I'm getting separate AC installers)

btw, the electricians are not my friends yar. One of them (Ah Hui) was recommended by a close friend of mine =)
good luck with the reno! and feel free to hijack this thread anytime. meant for all to share, compare and learn.

Wiring bare channel sounds like just "ready" wires to plug into something (like the picture ceo684 showed)? like tube lighting, right? can also be used for others like e27casing + LED bulb, feature lights?
For itemization from contractor, wouldn't it count as a "lighting point"?

Can use 3 gang socket to save another LNE? Couldn't find much, but found this MK brand socket : 3 gang DP double earth socket


One electrician did recommend the same for my new DB and rewiring, but he mentioned 2 different RCCBs only, 1 for lighting, 1 for everything else

Hi sifu's can anyone guide me on this? Is item no1. the same as: (ongss quotation)

Sifu's, house under reno now. armoured cable has been pulled for autogate, pillar lights.
Is it ok to leave the armoured cable copper wires exposed like this (fully outdoor, no shade)?
Wouldn't it expose the copper wires to rain and seep in along the whole stretch of the cable?