All electrical items with a metal body must be earthed. This includes the casing of the "fluorescent" tube, even if the tube is LED. Items that are double insulated, like plastic downlights, do not need to be earthed. But the 230Vac wiring to the light must still have the green wire, it is just not connected.

If you do not have an earth for any metal cased item, and should the LIVE touch the case, then the case will be at mains potential which can kill when you touch it. But if there is an earth bonding, then as soon as the LIVE touches the metal case, something in the DB should trip safely. Note that a LIVE wire touching an unearthed chassis, can still work as if nothing is wrong with it. With this in mind, you can run any metal cased item without an earth bonding, but your safety is compromised.

And I am telling you the requirement. All metal cased items that are not double insulated. This supersedes the choke inside the case.

As you have alluded to in your post, exposure determines risk. Just like you will never be mauled by a shark if you never swim in the ocean (unless you Sharknado!) a light fixture that is high and inaccessible is "safe" with no earth than say, a stand lamp. You make your choice on the level of exposure you are willing to risk.

There is no technical reason that a fluorescent tube will not work if the choke is or isn't earthed. It is done for safety.

Okay. If you are so confident, why did you ask the question on the first place?

By the way, this

is not a light cover

This

is a light cover

Lazy to take real life pictures, move to my pc, edit and annotate them, and try to convince you otherwise. You do you.

Black wires = neutral, not earth.

As for problems with the black wires, I can guess only that they are being shared. This is not automatically dangerous or problematic. Your "qualified electrician" should have given you more information for example like which sockets can be used together, such that you would not need to be asking here for people to guess a solution.

If the problem is the black wires are undersized, then you can get away with just making some changes to the MCBs in your DB to cater to the undersized wires. Not ideal, but still a valid solution.

The 6 A MCBs are fine, but you could reduce the 20A ones to 16A, because of the "C" curve specifications. Please check the IN and OUT wiring, as from your picture they are incorrect
No issues buying online
EPS/Maxguard no issue based on my experience. You can use 25A RCBO only if you are rewiring the water heaters to 4 mm² wiring, but no issue with either amp rating as your heaters are 3600W only (~16 A maximum)
Yes. Rules state must be 30 mA (maximum) for sockets, and 100 mA (maximum) for lighting circuits. You could fulfill this with one 30 mA RCCB for both sockets and lighting Edit : Oops, sorry, I first read it as RCCB. Changing main incoming dual pole MCB is entirely your choice
All these choices are based on brand preference, and budget. All can be used, but stick with 63A as this is the rating you currently have.

Roughly, this is the number of MCBs I can count.


Take kitchen as example : The oven has its own wiring and MCB, so would the microwave. But the food steamer, rice cooker and water purifier I would run own wiring and MCB, but going to a set of 4 sockets.
Take the study : Fan and lights on one set of wiring, but the sockets may be 4 gang so that can plug in the PC, monitor, printer and speakers, going to 1 MCB. I hope my explanation makes sense.

This post has been edited by stormer.lyn: May 7 2022, 07:42 PM

Main incoming fused isolator

I would like to assure you that an SPD can protect from lightning strike damage, but the truth is no one can. It's all a matter of luck; with an SPD you may have better luck, without you may have worse luck. Or it may not even be true at all, because lightning damage is absolutely unpredictable.

Let me also add a picture to show you what I see

Ah, well, lighting has hundreds of millions++ Joules of energy in every strike....
I recommend you change everything, because age can be a factor for failure of a device.
No special connection method. The busbar for the top row, and the busbar for the bottom row, connected together with a fairly thick wire, of say 16 mm² to 25 mm²

The main question is concealed wiring or not? Not concealed you will be able to get cheaper than that, should be in the 200 - 250 range.

If concealed, does it include making good the concealment? If yes then RM 500 is fair once you include the plastering, skimming, painting, ceiling work, etc. Concealed, but without making good should be in the RM 350 range.

Remember this is a one off job, and also that the prices I wrote are a rough guide only.
(If I were quoting you for this, I would be about 20% less than what I wrote, but then my customers who have become my friends always say I charge too little)