Guys, I am electrical engineering students but now working on something else. But suffice to say copper is very expensive commodity nowadays. The price is doubled.

My suggestion to you is do whole house continuity test for what you can still use. Copper especially the old one is of very good quality. Nowadays although still sirim, the quality level is greatly vary. The cost would start MYR 300 plus.

So after electrician have check your wiring is okay or not, then you change the distribution board. i believe your house 2 2 storey right, so i think it is cheaper and long term to have second DB upstairs. Also one important thing is to understand how much incoming you need (based on your load) and also purchase as big as possible (well based on your setup) distribution board to go with.

My previous bungalow i do, 1 storey the kitchen area require more space then the front one. Also if you want to use strictly code the cost will add up quickly, also the space DIN rail inside your distribution board.

Yes I agree, in fact i do this at my customer house 2 earth leakage circuit breaker/RCCB 1 using 100mA sensitivity and the other 30mA sensitivity. That would be 2 for each DB. 100mA is what difficult to touch like fan and lighting because whereas 30mA like power points etc. Also do adopt new 10mA for each water heater, best to be safe then sorry. With that if you have 3 bathroom, also with minimum 4mm wire the cost is very high.

you need more info please reply, I can reply to what you need. My priciple is always consultation is free for my client. If meter not touch, i dont think we require to called up TNB personnel, only wiremen will do.

Post a picture of the DB box overall and closeup pic of the largest blocks, for better commentary.

Switches, 13A sockets, in standard white good brand like MK [or Hager if u like bigger switch] is about RM5 each, WH switches RM20/ea
These are cheap if you DIY.

For MCB parts wise roughly without seeing the DB (assuming its a usual double storey or condo, not a huge mansion bungalow) you will be looking at RM400-600 parts wise only for complete DB replacement with top tier components (ABB/Hager).

Note: Exclude labour.

Generally usable but get the electrician inspect for surprises.
Also shared neutral problems at water heater

Magic keyword:
Wireman need to
Possess PW1/2 cert for single phase,
Possess PW3/4 cert for 3ph

https://www.st.gov.my/en/web/general/details/99

Chargeman also can do but wont be cheap and u wont want to pay their fees in a residential setting

Generally there's two types of clients
One that emulates purchasing dept and goes for lowest bid. These usually end up with so many cut corner creative shortcuts I also kepala pusing
More reasonable one that dont really bother on pricing (but reasonable lah), as long as work done properly and right materials.

The 6 A MCBs are fine, but you could reduce the 20A ones to 16A, because of the "C" curve specifications. Please check the IN and OUT wiring, as from your picture they are incorrect
No issues buying online
EPS/Maxguard no issue based on my experience. You can use 25A RCBO only if you are rewiring the water heaters to 4 mm² wiring, but no issue with either amp rating as your heaters are 3600W only (~16 A maximum)
Yes. Rules state must be 30 mA (maximum) for sockets, and 100 mA (maximum) for lighting circuits. You could fulfill this with one 30 mA RCCB for both sockets and lighting Edit : Oops, sorry, I first read it as RCCB. Changing main incoming dual pole MCB is entirely your choice

All these choices are based on brand preference, and budget. All can be used, but stick with 63A as this is the rating you currently have.

Roughly, this is the number of MCBs I can count.


Take kitchen as example : The oven has its own wiring and MCB, so would the microwave. But the food steamer, rice cooker and water purifier I would run own wiring and MCB, but going to a set of 4 sockets.
Take the study : Fan and lights on one set of wiring, but the sockets may be 4 gang so that can plug in the PC, monitor, printer and speakers, going to 1 MCB. I hope my explanation makes sense.

Main incoming fused isolator

I would like to assure you that an SPD can protect from lightning strike damage, but the truth is no one can. It's all a matter of luck; with an SPD you may have better luck, without you may have worse luck. Or it may not even be true at all, because lightning damage is absolutely unpredictable.

Let me also add a picture to show you what I see

Ah, well, lighting has hundreds of millions++ Joules of energy in every strike....
I recommend you change everything, because age can be a factor for failure of a device.

No special connection method. The busbar for the top row, and the busbar for the bottom row, connected together with a fairly thick wire, of say 16 mm² to 25 mm²