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 rewiring, new DB, add DB

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brutus
post May 15 2021, 08:54 PM

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QUOTE(vernee26 @ May 11 2021, 12:47 AM)

Some info on the reno/current status:
- It’s currently 3 phase
-Estimated reno to have about :
100 x downlights (mostly 4” indoor and 6” outdoor) – likely to get casing + LED bulb (9-11W)
65 x 13AMP sockets
6 x 15AMP or 20AMP for instant/storage heater for 6 bathrooms  (15 or 20AMP?)

OMG, 100x Downlights!?
Usually I will isolate the area and just focus on the number of circuits for the lighting.
Eg, Master Bedroom- 1x Cove Lighting, 3 or 4 circuits for Downlight/Track Lights. Any other lighting will be just looping.
Same goes for power socket and I usually use the 2-gang instead of the 1-gang SSO.

It is also best to use different ELCB/RCCB for power and lighting circuit. For my own DB, I used 3 different RCCB, 1 each for Power/A/Cond (100mA), Lighting (30mA) and my Solar Heater (10mA) for practicality and safety.
Storage tank heater uses 3KW heating element while instant shower heater uses 3.6KW heating element.
In terms of efficiency, nothing beats Solar Heater.

Rule of thumb, cable size is equivalent to 10x of current carrying capacity, eg 2.5mm = 25A.
Unless you are talking about 3HP and above AC, there is no need to go for 4mm cable size.
brutus
post May 15 2021, 09:03 PM

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QUOTE(vernee26 @ May 11 2021, 10:07 PM)

The electrician I met today asked if I wanted the new DB to have a main switch isolator OR upgrade (pay more) to have a MCCB instead. Is this necessary?
I thought it's 2 entirely different things, isn't it?

In the market there are 2 types of DB that either:

1. MCB/Isolator as Main Incoming
2. MCCB as Main Incoming

For better protection and easier wiring go for the option 2 though it costs more initially.
Local brands like Safety/MaxGuard/EPS all have these DB with 2 type of incoming as option.
brutus
post May 16 2021, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ May 16 2021, 02:43 AM)
For the RCCB/RCD selection is this correct? You may have swapped them around.
Lighting is something that is generally low risk as user don't touch often and its out of reach of small kids. 100mA for lighting because back then people used a lot of old flourescent with chokes that often trip high sensitivity RCD, so a medium sensitivity 100mA is allowed.

13A sockets and metal forks and curious kids are high risk and therefore it need 30mA.

[attachmentid=10879144]
Selection of either MCB or MCCB also depending on the available mounting type of the DB box itself.
MCB/MCCB usually only cut the 3P live wire. It does not isolate the neutral.
Hence, MCCB does not perform the role of isolator

Isolator (4P) cut all 3P+N so even if some idiota wire the wrong way down the road and sets the neutral as hot wire when you're working on the DB box, you can be assured the whole house is completely isolated off the grid safely.
*
100mA for power circuits are usually good as one will not need to worry about nuisance trip. As all power circuits are connected to a single 100mA, there is a build up of leakages. Hence putting a 30mA into the power circuit is too sensitive.
Most lighting especially LEDs are very efficient hence the chances of earth leakages is very minor hence a 30mA is best to protect it. Main point here is should a trip occur in the middle of the night on the power circuit, one would not need to wander around in the dark or relying on torch lights. I also forgotten to mention that I specifically told the electrician to wire my fans to the lighting circuit. In the event the trip in the power circuit cannot be resolve at least I still have my fans running.
MCCB does come in TPN configurations as well. At any given time I will always choose a MCCB over an isolator (costs aside).

brutus
post May 17 2021, 12:55 PM

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QUOTE(vernee26 @ May 16 2021, 12:34 PM)
Wiring bare channel sounds like just "ready" wires to plug into something (like the picture ceo684 showed)? like tube lighting, right? can also be used for others like e27casing + LED bulb, feature lights?
For itemization from contractor, wouldn't it count as a "lighting point"?

Can use 3 gang socket to save another LNE? Couldn't find much, but found this MK brand socket : 3 gang DP double earth socket
One electrician did recommend the same for my new DB and rewiring, but he mentioned 2 different RCCBs only, 1 for lighting, 1 for everything else
*
If the electrician mentioned 2 different RCCB, then it is 1 each for Lighting and Power Circuit. If you have Heater (instant/storage/solar) it is best to have an additional RCCB of 10mA.

3-Gang SSO is rare, best to use 2x 2-Gang so it is easier to find in the market.

 

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