Guys, I am electrical engineering students but now working on something else. But suffice to say copper is very expensive commodity nowadays. The price is doubled.

My suggestion to you is do whole house continuity test for what you can still use. Copper especially the old one is of very good quality. Nowadays although still sirim, the quality level is greatly vary. The cost would start MYR 300 plus.

So after electrician have check your wiring is okay or not, then you change the distribution board. i believe your house 2 2 storey right, so i think it is cheaper and long term to have second DB upstairs. Also one important thing is to understand how much incoming you need (based on your load) and also purchase as big as possible (well based on your setup) distribution board to go with.

My previous bungalow i do, 1 storey the kitchen area require more space then the front one. Also if you want to use strictly code the cost will add up quickly, also the space DIN rail inside your distribution board.

Yes I agree, in fact i do this at my customer house 2 earth leakage circuit breaker/RCCB 1 using 100mA sensitivity and the other 30mA sensitivity. That would be 2 for each DB. 100mA is what difficult to touch like fan and lighting because whereas 30mA like power points etc. Also do adopt new 10mA for each water heater, best to be safe then sorry. With that if you have 3 bathroom, also with minimum 4mm wire the cost is very high.

you need more info please reply, I can reply to what you need. My priciple is always consultation is free for my client. If meter not touch, i dont think we require to called up TNB personnel, only wiremen will do.

Hi, a condo that 26years old is that safe to use back the existing wiring for other 10-15years? Will replace wall socket, switches, DB components should replace?

Post a picture of the DB box overall and closeup pic of the largest blocks, for better commentary.

Actually I'm still in buying sub sales process, will share once I have it. Currently calculating how much do I need to spend on it.

Switches, 13A sockets, in standard white good brand like MK [or Hager if u like bigger switch] is about RM5 each, WH switches RM20/ea
These are cheap if you DIY.

For MCB parts wise roughly without seeing the DB (assuming its a usual double storey or condo, not a huge mansion bungalow) you will be looking at RM400-600 parts wise only for complete DB replacement with top tier components (ABB/Hager).

Note: Exclude labour.

Hi, thanks for the reply.

It is a 950sqft old condo.
Switches I think will slowly change to smart switch but before that will try few of it first.
How about the wiring concealed inside the wall? How we know is that still useable?

Generally usable but get the electrician inspect for surprises.
Also shared neutral problems at water heater

Thanks for the advice, btw how to find a qualified electrician? Do they have like a license or certified number?

Magic keyword:
Wireman need to
Possess PW1/2 cert for single phase,
Possess PW3/4 cert for 3ph

https://www.st.gov.my/en/web/general/details/99

Chargeman also can do but wont be cheap and u wont want to pay their fees in a residential setting

Generally there's two types of clients
One that emulates purchasing dept and goes for lowest bid. These usually end up with so many cut corner creative shortcuts I also kepala pusing
More reasonable one that dont really bother on pricing (but reasonable lah), as long as work done properly and right materials.

Generally usable but get the electrician inspect for surprises.
Also shared neutral problems at water heater

Shared neutral problem?

Sifu's, house under reno now. armoured cable has been pulled for autogate, pillar lights.
Is it ok to leave the armoured cable copper wires exposed like this (fully outdoor, no shade)?
Wouldn't it expose the copper wires to rain and seep in along the whole stretch of the cable?

Sorry to hijack thread but for those with experience with very old house (70s), any idea how they earth the ground rod? Only two cables from the tnb pole to the meter so can’t be tn-s system. But house surely  got earth and measured 0.5v between N and E at the sockets.

Can’t seem to see any earth cables coming out from the main tnb panel. And can’t find any earth concrete casing for ground Rod anywhere in the house compound.

The ground rod is normally locate at the garden. If the front yard is tile up whole place, than the tile already cover over it.

The earth wire lay directly to the DB. Doesn’t go through the meter side.

Actually its a different market segment. It is not about saving the pennies but it has to be up to code so that it doesn't need further investigations for the near future.
I am also interested in why a 30mA whole house RCD is NOT doable in 2021.
I personally run 30mA as single mains RCD and do not experience nuisance trips.

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Earth is optional if not using those old type fluorescent tube with the magnetic brick choke, and is usually not fitted, but its alright to have it fitted.
Typically lights do not come with earth wire, but for the old fluorescent tube with magnetic brick choke, this choke is like a "transformer" that need to be bonded to earth, while the lamp casing is not required to be earthed.

Thanks for the reply. Reason I’m asking is because I’m planning to install an spd and i think the db is full and will require a wire longer than 50 cm to connect to the earth point. When people talk about laying a secondary earth point to make the connection to the spd shorter, how do they do this? Will i have to lay a new grounding rod?