Just would like to check what is usual budget allocation for new house's furniture and kitchen cabinet? 4 rooms house. At least 10% of housing price?

General recommendation is to not spend more than 10% of the property price on renovation, unless you're rich and this is going to be your forever home/holding it for at least twenty years.

Consider your cash flow also, if your budget is limited it's best to do it piece by piece instead of spending it in one go and/or taking too much debt. Again, if you're rich, this won't be an issue.

Also, if it is a newly constructed house, certain renovation might cause you to be unable to claim for defects from construction company under defect liability period.

Landed double storey house? keep RM100k for minor renovation complete with furniture and home appliances. Can reduce the budget if you lower quality items/taobao/diy.

Landed double storey house? keep RM100k for minor renovation complete with furniture and home appliances. Can reduce the budget if you lower quality items/taobao/diy.

10% is generally the standard... If got $$, more also non issues...

Just that, u don't overspend...
Because many actually does that.... Many people faced this issues... Focus, buy whatever needed only...

Hi there, during this pandemic it is amazing how the price of electrical appliances and raw materials gone up. Even customized furniture price gone up, aluminum too. Unless your house is 7 digit, 10% can hardly do anything to be honest. Very basic renovation with no hacking etc. If include electrical appliances, bed etc, very hard to keep it within 10%.

Yeah landed double storey. Huh 100k? I m thinking only half of this amount. Already almost broke after fork out for down-payment

Depends on your taste.

Functional/Practical or Lavish?

Agreed on this point, 10% is not a good indication for budget allocation.

I would suggest to allocate budget on the major items first. Something that you cannot do after moving in.
Examples: extension, hacking, flooring, plaster ceiling, wiring, plumbing, painting and etc.

Others are having less priority which may be done after moving in or with better financial buffer.
Examples: Awning, electrical items, some built in furnitures and etc.

If landed house, I think 10% can't do much.
My friend did his inter Terrace for 200k including kitchen extension.

Landed 4 room can be as tiny as 16x50 or 24x75..
also depends on how extensive the reno works required, if no major extension then it will not be that expensive to 200k.

Kitcab a well-specced one-
from ikea 8ft can go 6-7k, 15ft 12k-15k
from sig kit starts from 30k

Electrical appliances.. basically TV and fridge alone will easily take up 5k

You can start planning by section or scope.. coz some of the planning also involve the proper sequencing of events.

I did mine along the lines of:
Appliances
Kitcab, Sink
Furniture
Power Tools
Hardware Tools
Painting
Electrical
Aircon
Kitchen Appliances

little by little, 30k already spent

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 4 2021, 11:03 PM

Make sure all the wet works, add power socket especially in kitchen area are done first.

Wet works + grille/auto gate + built in cabinet can easily cost RM50k (basic renovation not kitchen extension), so shop for furniture and home appliances later to avoid over stretching your budget.

This is as useless a question as the answers. Only you know what you need and your priorities. Why don't you do ground up listing the items you need and it is not difficult since you are only talking about furnitures and kitchen cabinets.

The other big items are structural/wet work, electrical, piping, etc that are not mentioned.

This post has been edited by kuchaikway: May 6 2021, 03:22 PM

If using 10% general rule, I'm not sure how much 30k can do for reno + appliances & furniture.

To me I spend more on things I can carry away & some stuff that require installation or can be hard to change in future to minimize the hassle of
them needing replacement in near future like example A/C, Mattress, Kitchen hood.

This is what 30k can do. But with some donated items (yes I'm poorfag), and some items just get Ikea As Is stuff..cheaper than brand new if condition not too condemned. Everything new then 40k up I guess?

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=100077604
Actually more to 31.5k once added curtains in there.
Covered most of the core essentials, mainly DIY. At least end of the day I spend on power tools still got salvage value

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 6 2021, 10:06 PM

Did you DIY curtain railing? If yes, do you mind sharing on it? I'm thinking of DIY too, buying DOSO curtain rail and and bracket. But not sure is it heavy duty or there's better choice out there

Curtain rails are pretty much ..
This is ten percent luck
Twenty percent skill
Fifteen percent concentrated power of will
Five percent pleasure
Fifty percent pain of measurement
And a hundred percent reason to DIY

Most of the hard work is measuring the rail height (using measuring tape) taking into consideration your curtain length.
Example of most standard ikea curtains are at 250cm tall so the rail will be say around 253 or 255cm AGL (above ground level) so as not to sweep the floor (small gap there).

Although the ikea solution is the easiest to implement (once installed, can say need no further tools) https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/betydlig-wall-...white-70219892/
the ikea bracket uses 2 screws and you can couple it with 2x 38mm wall plugs with 1.75" screws to be super heavy duty (won't be able to pull out from the wall easily). Configurable whether you want to use as single rail or double rail.. can just install short side to wall .. so its always double-rail-ready.

The DOSO rail is the old school type of curtain requiring you to install the W metal clip into the curtain.. which to me is too time consuming
I prefer to just use eyelet type like this https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/merete-room-da...white-70172205/
just put thru the eyelet holes and rest the rail up.. then lock in the thumbscrews to attach the rail. ta-dah.

---

In terms of DIY complexity
DOSO alu one drill one hole
Ikea one drill 2 hole. Your linear accuracy need to be good when drilling the 2nd hole if you're OCD type. But its gonna cover over the bracket by the curtain once installed so not a big deal I would say. For typical apartment whole unit rails and L bracket only ~100 bucks EXCLUDE curtains.
All types can be levelled with spirit level once u drill the 1st hole.. then the other end can test fit the rail o see position.

You just need a suitable drill/rotary hammer, screws and wooden wall plugs, a screwdriver, cheap spirit level, masking tape, marker pen, ladder, measuring tape, that's about it.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 7 2021, 10:29 PM

Wow salute to you! make use of every single cent! With this budget, I guess all I have to do is DIY and stretch every single dollar

Thank you sir for you in depth tutorial. Ikea rail/rod seems nicer, but I heard complaints its not smooth when pulling, and people have been suggesting DOSO rail. Yup, looks old and all, but they are going to be covered by pelmet or plaster ceiling, so not that noticeable, hopefully.

Most welcome Yes that is true at the crossover overlap point but can be fixed with a bit of vinyl tape.

DOSO bracket to install either use normal screwdriver with 6" or longer length OR if power tool (drill driver/electric screwdriver) u will need a longer bit (110mm type), cannot use the short one as the physical obstruction of the DOSO bracket will prevent the drill driver from reaching.

110mm screwdriver bit - e.g. https://shopee.com.my/Milwaukee-Shockwave-P...5782.3119505938

1. Determine intended rail position (grey line). Calculated by adding curtains' length and clearance from floor/skirting.
2. Mark the height for the line (many HA HB HC orange dots) using AGL or BCL distance with measuring tape first. No need to stick alot of masking tape. Little bit 4" pieces here and there cukup
3. To get the final HA HB HC dots you can use the rough height marks earlier, this one now start with HA and spirit level across HB HC .. Hx
4. Now can fix more masking tape and draw the horizontal line since you have a good idea how it goes.
5. Do a quick aesthetic check against the horizontal line and the window - see green line H(AesChk1,2,3). Most cases the window frame is quite level, but cannot guarantee 100%. Anyhow still recommended that the rail follow spirit level horizontal so that the curtains will not run by themselves with a slight wind
6. Now your horizontal line is perfect.
7. Check the W1 and W2 (start and ends) are balanced with the window frame. Do not mark the holes at the very maximum of the DOSO rail. You need a little bit of tolerance (should be within the rail length like 3% and 97%, 0 and 100 you may have problem mounting).
8. Add the in between holes according to rail recommendations for distance between holes and the nos. of remaining brackets.
9. Drill and install wall plugs.
10A. Screw in the brackets.
10B. Mount the rail to the brackets.
10C. You may need to reverse 10B and 10A sequence if there is no physical space for you to turn screwdriver (if BCL clearance is very small) so you have to install the rail onto the brackets and mount it as one completed piece.


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