Hi guys,

My autogate right now only works on battery and the battery is nearly half of its voltage (6-7V ish).

I don't think the panel is broken since I just bought a new one, and replaced it. How can I check if the new panel is also broken?

Since it works with battery, the panel is working but maybe the charging mechanism doesn't work?

Initially I thought, my old panel is broken, changed it, and it doesn't work. It started to work again after I changed the battery. But now even the new battery started to fail (because no charging).

Help!

Could you tell us your autogate model? Provide photos if possible

The panel got power from tnb?
Check cable, breaker
Charge your battery to 12v manually too. Else you will have dead battery very very soon

Yes, I've checked the cables from TNB to the panel with test pen. Looks OK. Also checked the input of the transformer with a test pen also looks OK.

Silly question, but how can I charge the battery manually? Do I need to buy some sort of charger for this kind of battery?

Thanks

If its a 12V type SLA (black box) with flat terminals like this one https://my.rs-online.com/web/p/lead-acid-ba...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds can just plug into UPS using similar 12V
If 6V SLA x2 plug 1 by 1 into motorbike using 6V
If car size 12V remove and charge with car

Depending on what type of battery is used.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 6 2021, 12:15 PM

I cannot found the exact model but here the pictures of the gate and the arm.

The panel is a S1 autogate panel similar to this https://www.lazada.com.my/products/s1-autog...1jZ4d6&search=1



This post has been edited by mdpai: Apr 6 2021, 12:23 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Ah Thanks! It's a 12V 7.2AH Battery (SLA). I suppose I can buy UPS like this one?

https://shopee.com.my/UPS-Battery-Backup-12...7730.4409891561

Check if the the terminal got charging voltage when battery is removed. I thought the charging circuit is part of the main board?

Not normal but is there fuse as part of charging circuit?

I think there's only one fuse on the board (for the main line)

This post has been edited by mdpai: Apr 6 2021, 12:43 PM

Ahh that should work but confirm whether it output is 230VAC or 12VDC for the one you linked, vs what is the expected voltage the autogate expects.

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/prolink-...-s13349814.html

A computer UPS should also work for 230VAC output (and as a charger) if you have one at home already.
UPS charger for those black 12V SLA can be used if you want to charge the existing.

----

Back to topic
If your autogate has been around for many years, chances are the charging circuit for the backup battery may not be working. See what's the voltage on the wires leading to the battery (disconnect battery first).

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 6 2021, 12:45 PM

Ok will check this soon.

by the way;

1) When I disconnect the battery, should the autogate works? (in my case it doesn't work)

2) yes the autogate has been for many years but the panel is brand new (as I thought the old panel is broken). Both panel, old and new doesn't charge the battery.

have you check if the panel actually receives electricity ?

Yes, I've checked with a test pen. The inputs of the transformers are also seems good.

lol......

try checking with multimeter.

test pen can only test if there is alternating current. it doesnt test electrical potential between live and neutral
there's a possibility the neutral circuit is broken.

have you check the output of the transformer?

This post has been edited by slimey: Apr 6 2021, 01:11 PM

Not yet, as I'm scared to test with my cheap RM50 multimeter (the one with needle indicator).

Can use to test live and neutral wire with this cheap multimeter?

This post has been edited by mdpai: Apr 6 2021, 01:17 PM

sure, why not.

Can be used, start by setting the range to largest (enough to support 230V), don't start small otherwise you can blow the fuse (or meter).

ok thanks! I have these items to check after the rain.

1) The voltage on the wires leading to the battery (should be 12V?)
2) Output voltage of the transformers (should be 12V?)
3) Voltage between live and neutral arrived at the board (should be 230V?)

Output of the transformer depends on the transformer rating. It should be written on the transformer.

The input of the panel voltage should be written on the panel somewhere. Do you have the picture or the circuit diagram of the panel?

Output to battery should be around 13 volts I think.

have you checked the fuse at the power source?

Be careful, it's AC.

This post has been edited by Snoy: Apr 6 2021, 04:33 PM

ok problem solved! Thanks for the advices.

I've checked the voltages and sure enough, there's 0V across the live and neutral wire coming to the board. A trip to the hardware store then replaced the cable from the panel to the power point (my cable is not under the ground) is all it takes.

But one thing I don't understand, why when tested using a test pen, the diode turned on?

because the test pen is just showing potential difference between you and the live ac.

human body has parasitic capacitance that allows alternating current to go through the body.