Oct 18 2021, 02:24 PM
QUOTE(ceo684 @ Mar 29 2021, 05:19 PM)
Noted, can proceed with both
Radenshield to reflect most of the heat out back to roof tile, basically just stick on using construction adhesive to existing roof batten (the vertical battens in the A shape of the roof). In short, easy installation but ypu may want to do the add joists before the radenshield so easier for the installer to stick the radenshield on the rood batten coz to position a ladder or stool in there based on whats available now seems a bit dangerous, not much safe area for them to work with, risk of falling thru the ceiling is there.
Rockwool above plaster ceiling with additional wooden beam (flat joists) to support weight of people walking around, and between these flat joist you can just use flat bar or the alu batten same type as the plaster ceiling folks use, join them up between joists to look like a flat ladder to support the rockwool slab weight.
All the above is passive heat reduction method. Turbine also quite passive despite the monstrous size.
Active method involve boarding up your sides (ie close off your rooftop airspace to be only yours) so youre only cooling your rooftop airspace and not the whole row of 20 houses' airspace. By making a vent to be able to support the size of a ventilation exhaust fan or two unit ventilation fan about 10in KDK it is gonna move 400 to 500cfm so the air inside is not tupperwared long enough to bake (like now). The input you can just make a passive vent above the bathroom ceiling for it to have cold input air. Why i didnt wanna suggest 12in is that the hole is big and burglar can squeeze in. 10in should be small enough for them not to be able to drop in.
This active ventilation is like you park the car in the hot sun and opening all windows. The car cools better in minutes with the window open as compared to it fully rolled up. Even better if there is a fan blowing out all the time when it is baked in the sun. The exhaust fan you can use on timer so it only work on hot hours say 1100-2000hrs. The electric usage of an exhaust fan is very minimal compared to overworking your AC.
Hi, off topic, not related to the heat, as I planned to install 24cm ceiling exhaust fan on my bathroom ceiling, n with ducting to draw the air to outside of the house. After read your post, now I'm thinking whether the ducting is necessary, and is there any disadvantage by drawing the air into attic above ceiling? Will the moisture n smell from the bathroom cause any issue? Thanks !Radenshield to reflect most of the heat out back to roof tile, basically just stick on using construction adhesive to existing roof batten (the vertical battens in the A shape of the roof). In short, easy installation but ypu may want to do the add joists before the radenshield so easier for the installer to stick the radenshield on the rood batten coz to position a ladder or stool in there based on whats available now seems a bit dangerous, not much safe area for them to work with, risk of falling thru the ceiling is there.
Rockwool above plaster ceiling with additional wooden beam (flat joists) to support weight of people walking around, and between these flat joist you can just use flat bar or the alu batten same type as the plaster ceiling folks use, join them up between joists to look like a flat ladder to support the rockwool slab weight.
All the above is passive heat reduction method. Turbine also quite passive despite the monstrous size.
Active method involve boarding up your sides (ie close off your rooftop airspace to be only yours) so youre only cooling your rooftop airspace and not the whole row of 20 houses' airspace. By making a vent to be able to support the size of a ventilation exhaust fan or two unit ventilation fan about 10in KDK it is gonna move 400 to 500cfm so the air inside is not tupperwared long enough to bake (like now). The input you can just make a passive vent above the bathroom ceiling for it to have cold input air. Why i didnt wanna suggest 12in is that the hole is big and burglar can squeeze in. 10in should be small enough for them not to be able to drop in.
This active ventilation is like you park the car in the hot sun and opening all windows. The car cools better in minutes with the window open as compared to it fully rolled up. Even better if there is a fan blowing out all the time when it is baked in the sun. The exhaust fan you can use on timer so it only work on hot hours say 1100-2000hrs. The electric usage of an exhaust fan is very minimal compared to overworking your AC.
This post has been edited by stormaker: Oct 18 2021, 02:26 PM
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