QUOTE(amduser @ Apr 15 2022, 04:36 PM)
i dont know if you check all your bush and joints, worn out bushing will progressively make your alignment worst even though the mechanic adjust nicely on the machine, the moment you go back home the alignment can be screwed up by the worn out bushing or loose nuts
non adjustable camber on most car is a good thing, if the camber out of aligned that's mean you have a bushing problem, suspension problem or a loose parts somewhere, because camber is non-adjustable so there is one less thing to worry about, so if my car has a drift problem when driving straight or vibration/loose steering, i will jack up the car, take out the wheel to inspect for worn out/loose parts rather than going to have my alignment done
if you think your total toe/camber is that significant, mine is running at a toe of -0.2 at front, 0.1 at rear, total camber -3 front and -2 rear, while still keep the thrust angle at 0, you can have right toe at 0 and left toe at -0.1 you still get total toe of -0.1 while what you should aim for is -0.05 each side
I should have clarified earlier on that the sets of Lower Control Arm, outer tie-rod ends, shock absorbers, absorber links and sway bar bushes for the Front axle and Rear shock absorber sets were all replaced some 25k kms ago in December 2020 at a cost of some RM1750 .non adjustable camber on most car is a good thing, if the camber out of aligned that's mean you have a bushing problem, suspension problem or a loose parts somewhere, because camber is non-adjustable so there is one less thing to worry about, so if my car has a drift problem when driving straight or vibration/loose steering, i will jack up the car, take out the wheel to inspect for worn out/loose parts rather than going to have my alignment done
if you think your total toe/camber is that significant, mine is running at a toe of -0.2 at front, 0.1 at rear, total camber -3 front and -2 rear, while still keep the thrust angle at 0, you can have right toe at 0 and left toe at -0.1 you still get total toe of -0.1 while what you should aim for is -0.05 each side
However, all 4 absorber top mounts and front steering rack end assemblies were not replaced then, from which Front right rack end is currently found loosened (some 2 weeks ago) and yet to be replaced.
I'm from the camp of non-adjustable front/rear cambers and rear toes (commonly found in Front MacPherson and Rear Torsion Beam or solid fixed axle) is a bad thing in the context of flexibility in making adjustments to suspension alignment angles in individual tyre, hence leading to generally much lousier and less enjoyable driving experience or pleasure but hey..... it is cheaper to purchase and maintain compared to a complex independent rear and front suspensions normally found in very pricy segment D continental cars.
Interesting that you have front (total?) toe of -0.2 (degree or is it mm?) and cambers at -3° and -2°. Mind sharing what car this belongs to and how is highway high speed straight ahead driving experience, wobbly or steady?
QUOTE(amduser @ Apr 18 2022, 09:35 AM)
Not sure whether the 0.5 refers to unit in mm or decimal degree or degree/minute?
Apr 18 2022, 09:37 PM

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