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Chat Recommend me electric pressure cooker

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SUSrtk74
post Jul 6 2020, 11:40 PM

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It's better to buy stovetop pressure cooker, maintenance is much easier,
we been using Tefal for 10++ years now
only had to replace the silicone gasket 2-3 years ago
We bought it back in Europe though, dunno here got or not

Ikea has a cheap and good one
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/vaerdesaetta-p...steel-10286747/

I would stay clear off no-names, high pressure = high risk
any defect in manufacturing can cause boom-boom
SUSrtk74
post Jul 7 2020, 08:10 AM

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QUOTE(hiyyl @ Jul 7 2020, 08:04 AM)
I would like to avoid stovetop pressure cooker if possible. Reason, i can keep my stew n soup warm the whole day.
hmm.gif which Tefal model u buy? Easy to clean?
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That's a reasonable reason, but still, haven't seen an electric one last that long
Especially with how electronics now are bangwall.gif
SUSrtk74
post Jul 7 2020, 08:30 AM

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QUOTE(hiyyl @ Jul 7 2020, 08:18 AM)
The electronics should be ok. Problem is the materials used for the pressure cooker, either can withstand the pressure and heat or not. Especially the exterior part.
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Nahh man, sometimes they cut corners, using lead-free solder is one of it
The constant cycle between heat and cooling added with the vibration during steam release sometimes play with the soldered joints. Easy repair for me, but to some, the garbage bin will be the final destination


SUSrtk74
post Jul 7 2020, 08:46 AM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Jul 7 2020, 08:42 AM)
Nowadays the requirement is lead free, else cannot sell into market, especially Europe. Lead free has higher melting point than the leaded solder. So, it is more robust. It is poor soldering that cause the failure you mentioned.

However, I agree with you the normal stove top pressure cooker is less troublesome. You would not know if the electric one goes haywire and explode when you leave it at home on simmer.  laugh.gif

Heating food is easy with microwave nowadays  smile.gif
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as someone that repair electronics in free time (all the time now), lead-free has been annoying to work with
SUSrtk74
post Jul 7 2020, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(Liamness @ Jul 7 2020, 11:13 AM)
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/mid-year...KnJS2X&search=1

This model.. On sale atm too. Get it, won't regret. My wife uses it to cook soup.. 15mins gau tim.
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This one lari budget drool.gif
SUSrtk74
post Jul 7 2020, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(birain @ Jul 7 2020, 11:21 AM)
primada brand, goshop selling at RM399, free 2 su304 stainless steel pot with cover, 6 liter pressure cooker.
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I would stay clear of these rebranded one
SUSrtk74
post Jul 8 2020, 08:49 AM

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QUOTE(lagista @ Jul 8 2020, 08:47 AM)
what if branded also produced by same chapalang tiongkok factory
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If they had impose strict qc why not? + proper channel for warranty
just because same factory doesn't mean same quality
SUSrtk74
post Jul 8 2020, 08:49 AM

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QUOTE(Kyojin @ Jul 8 2020, 08:48 AM)
what good soldering iron do you recommend? ts100 good deal or not?
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That one is good, just need to buy a power supply for it though
SUSrtk74
post Jul 8 2020, 09:08 AM

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QUOTE(Kyojin @ Jul 8 2020, 09:02 AM)
oh, how much does a "good enough" power supply will cost to power this up?
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If you have an extra laptop charger, that would be good enough
if not get a used one
19v 4.5a is the one I have, replace the jack with common barrel jack

Just check back properly, the power depends on the power supply voltage used

I think there an updated one using a usb c
SUSrtk74
post Jul 8 2020, 09:38 AM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Jul 8 2020, 09:37 AM)
As for the USB-C, the current is defined as 5A max at 5V. This means only 25W. I think this is not adequate.

I don't use solder iron very often. Just to fix anything broken at home only. If nothing broken it will stay in storage for years  laugh.gif

Soldering capacitor or whatever can be tricky even if the component is small. If the PCB is paper base class like FR1 or FR2, the copper trace can easily be de-laminated. Too hot iron can damage it. Probably more common one is FR4 (Epoxy base). However, if the lead of component you are soldering goes to grounding on the PCB, the low wattage iron can't heat fast enough. Thus you tent to heat it longer. By doing so, even the FR4 PCB can be damaged (lifted pad). Furthermore, heating component lead too long (recommended like 3s) can damage the component especially the semi-conductor).
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Nahh mang, USB C got Power Delivery/PD can sustain 20v @5a
SUSrtk74
post Jul 8 2020, 09:52 AM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Jul 8 2020, 09:50 AM)
I see. Look like the USB4 has been defined. Anyone produce adapter at 100W yet?
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Lots actually, many laptop psu tops at 130w now
SUSrtk74
post Jul 8 2020, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(Zot @ Jul 8 2020, 09:55 AM)
I see. I've never seen laptop powered using USB-C  laugh.gif  blush.gif
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The world has change mang
Apple Macbooks all use USB C

Alot of windows laptop now use usb C as well

Heck, there's several phone that charges using usb C @ 65w

 

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