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Chat Recommend me electric pressure cooker
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Zot
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Jul 7 2020, 08:42 AM
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QUOTE(rtk74 @ Jul 7 2020, 08:30 AM) Nahh man, sometimes they cut corners, using lead-free solder is one of it The constant cycle between heat and cooling added with the vibration during steam release sometimes play with the soldered joints. Easy repair for me, but to some, the garbage bin will be the final destination Nowadays the requirement is lead free, else cannot sell into market, especially Europe. Lead free has higher melting point than the leaded solder. So, it is more robust. It is poor soldering that cause the failure you mentioned. However, I agree with you the normal stove top pressure cooker is less troublesome. You would not know if the electric one goes haywire and explode when you leave it at home on simmer. Heating food is easy with microwave nowadays
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Zot
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Jul 7 2020, 08:50 AM
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QUOTE(rtk74 @ Jul 7 2020, 08:46 AM) as someone that repair electronics in free time (all the time now), lead-free has been annoying to work with It is more annoying since without good soldering iron, it is hard to get good wetability when soldering. Melting temperature is higher than leaded solder. Me, coming from old school, yes it feels annoying unless you have right tool.
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Zot
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Jul 8 2020, 09:08 AM
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QUOTE(Kyojin @ Jul 8 2020, 08:48 AM) what good soldering iron do you recommend? ts100 good deal or not? I don't know about this iron. It is probably adequate for occasional hobbyist use, but if you are in repairing business that involves PCBA, then it probably not suitable. It has temperature control but at what point the temperature is measured. The most important is the tip temperature and how fast the iron can recover the temp at the tip once in contact with component's lead during soldering. I was reading the review and it looks like the power is more voltage driven than being constant current source device. Looks like it is about average iron. The most important thing is that the availability of iron tip for different soldering purpose. You also need a good power supply for this. Here is the review I read about. Looks like the guy was comparing with Weller which is for pro use in general https://hackaday.com/2017/07/24/review-ts100-soldering-iron/Note: I use normal iron only but with power boost for quick heat or soldering big metal surface that would be impossible with 30W iron. I'm just using Hakko
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Zot
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Jul 8 2020, 09:37 AM
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QUOTE(Kyojin @ Jul 8 2020, 09:20 AM) cool, thanks. the usb-c ones looks good. yah, more hobbyist - just to change a couple caps at home. already have a cheap china soldering iron that does the job though. what do you usually repair with you iron? As for the USB-C, the current is defined as 5A max at 5V. This means only 25W. I think this is not adequate. I don't use solder iron very often. Just to fix anything broken at home only. If nothing broken it will stay in storage for years Soldering capacitor or whatever can be tricky even if the component is small. If the PCB is paper base class like FR1 or FR2, the copper trace can easily be de-laminated. Too hot iron can damage it. Probably more common one is FR4 (Epoxy base). However, if the lead of component you are soldering goes to grounding on the PCB, the low wattage iron can't heat fast enough. Thus you tent to heat it longer. By doing so, even the FR4 PCB can be damaged (lifted pad). Furthermore, heating component lead too long (recommended like 3s) can damage the component especially the semi-conductor).
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Zot
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Jul 8 2020, 09:50 AM
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QUOTE(rtk74 @ Jul 8 2020, 09:38 AM) Nahh mang, USB C got Power Delivery/PD can sustain 20v @5a I see. Look like the USB4 has been defined. Anyone produce adapter at 100W yet?
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Zot
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Jul 8 2020, 09:55 AM
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QUOTE(rtk74 @ Jul 8 2020, 09:52 AM) Lots actually, many laptop psu tops at 130w now I see. I've never seen laptop powered using USB-C
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