there is a new profile coming up from melgeek, called MCR. (bgm: welcome to black parade by My Chemical Romance haha)

it's cherry-profile-like, but with some differences. (e.g., from the brief description, wider base area; wider top surface; slightly taller (0.5mm); different fonts for legends)

source: https://www.zfrontier.com/app/flow/4jAGndGNZ5NX

edit:

.. and this is how you open switches up and do your things with g80-3000 s tkl.



This post has been edited by horns: Oct 15 2021, 08:46 PM

when you need a good builder to help you out locally, please refer to the service provider list here, https://www.facebook.com/groups/MYMECHMARKE...979389625627322

in the list are known builders who have shown committment to fulfill their responsibilities to deliver good outcomes, at fairly reasonable fares. we are also aware of builders which are not in the list. many a time, shits happened in the background when dealing with them. eventually, users contacted builders from the list to fix something that shouldn't happen in the first place.

tbh, if you're confident and committed to help fellow users to build their boards, please at least show your sincerity and willingness to take responsibility by joining the list. the registration form is here.

here is another compilation of online stores for almost everything in mkbs, https://www.keebtalk.com/t/list-of-keyboard...es-vendors/9022

no for me, because i don't prefer sliders with long pole. for those who prefer relatively louder key sound and shorter key travels, the switch combination should be a good one.

i like relatively quiet builds, with good typing feels.

i think there are few who use it at mymkb fb group.

uh? how come? afaik the questions are simple

nice

replacement gasket foams should be obtainable, so it's not really a big deal.

i think switch and stab pads are good thing to have. if you're like me, wishing to minimize as much vibration from switches during typing as possible, in order to have cleaner typing feel, switch pads help.

it's nice to know that

honestly i have no experience on prebuilts like q1 or any prebuilts released since years ago. cherry g80-3000 s tkl was the most recent prebuilt that i have.

my issue is always the same: already used to custom builds. prebuilts just cannot cut it, even if they are tuned accordingly. however, for beginners, or those who do not intend to go beyond prebuilts, they should be good enough.

for gasket mount builds, maybe you can try different materials also.

a daughterboard can really help when you experience with different thickness of gaskets. this is why i only pick gasket mount kits that supplies it. kits with fixed port will not allow us to play more.

there are differences from vendor to vendor. due to blends of PBT used, processes involved, etc., they might sound and feel different.

for instance, recent epbt pbt key caps have relatively soft feels, while sets from capturer are relatively 'hard'. they have different sound profiles. also, some have rough surface (textured surface, hence affecting the feel as well)

edit: i have missed some epbt sets that i like, especially origami and ramenstop. i hope they will have extras.

This post has been edited by horns: Nov 2 2021, 08:42 PM

if there is a need to do such a mod, you can do that. however, the better option to do the same is go with solderedable pcb. structurally, it's better to solder the switches with half-plate style builds like on the video.

this is my latest reference build, with tuned jwick c-black v1.



for linear switches, jwk's budget lineup, branded under jwick, is good (e.g., jwick yellow/red/white are with pc switch top and nylon bottom housing; c-black v1 and 2 has full-nylon housing)

the 5th set of domikey double-shot/triple-shot abs, cherry profile key caps is now available at taobao. it's called astronauts.



again, one thing to note about these domikey's cherry profile key caps is that the actual colorways of some are way off from renders.

other than that, they are good quality sets, relatively speaking, compared to gmk and jtk.

finally, someone posted the actual causes of ticking sound in stabilizers, and remedies to them in one video.



in the nutshell, there are two places from stabilizers that can generate ticking sound:
1. inside stem hole;
2. housing sockets that secure wires.

you should apply these different mods accordingly. most people only focus on the first one (e.g., holee, epsi), while the second one, i.e., the mod for wire support to minimize ticking sound from housing sockets, was very seldom mentioned. perhaps they are like me, have cherry-picked better wires, and install them with a wire orientation that makes the least sound, so the issue is relatively not significant to them. then again, it's better to fix stuff based on actual problems.

tbh, years ago, the wire support mod was already mentioned by one of our veterans, https://www.facebook.com/groups/MalaysiaMec...41725219397038/ (this post is a good read, with good details). sadly, only few of us got the message.

as of now, my preferred pcb-mount stabs are c3 equalz v1/2/3, and everglide v2. those who have tried stock everglide v2 screw-in stabilizers will know they are one of the worst, making all sorts of noises that you can possibly imagine.

the good news is that after tuning, they will turn out to be one of the better ones.

i look forward to trying out the new stabilizers from tx. it's a snap-in/clip-in pcb-mount stabilizer, with the main difference being their double-shot stabilizer stems (pom outside, tpu inside), https://mekibo.com/products/tx-stabilizers

yeah let's wait until they have stock.

durock/everglide stabs are not bad after tuned. worst comes to worst, apply both mods as precautionary then lube them, and you should be fine. (yeah i couldn't stand them so i fixed all the stabs for modifier keys on this simpler60 just now)

i don't like things that are playing hard to get so i just skip stabies for now hehe

when they're readily available, i will get some for testing.

for now, i just restock everglide v2 and c3 equalz from time to time. i'm used to tune these two.

--

this is ilumkb's simpler64. the international gb is here, https://ilumkb.com/collections/live/products/simpler60



this kit is ok imo. however, it's better to make use of those m2x10 long screws to prevent the installation from moving around. the 0.5mm eva switch foam doesn't have openings for pins. it's better to use a switch to poke holes first if you wanna use it, to minimize bent pins.

i have some gasket-mount boards, as well as tray-mount/top-mount/bottom-mount/integrated plate builds. one thing that bothers me is this: a lot of people tell us gasket mount systems like this have 'flex'. tbh, in reality, you need to apply a lot of force to achieve that, which is not happening when you type normally. the main purpose of gasket mount systems is to offer relatively uniform typing sound and softer feel (compared to other keyboard constructions, which are relatively but slightly stiff), but it's definitely not about bounce or flex.

so, don't get disappointed when you type on a gasket-mount keyboard, but don't have that flexy feel. it's normal.

This post has been edited by horns: Nov 24 2021, 11:44 PM

yes, it's better to make this clear for everyone.

moving on, gasket mount is the last of the common plate mounting styles that i wanna try out, and after 3 different gasket mount implementations, my conclusion is this:
1. each plate mounting style offers different typing experience;
2. each has own strengths and weaknesses;
3. plate mounting style is just part of the big picture of a mkb. other parts (e.g., switch, plate, case, mods, etc.) still contribute, with obvious effects, to the overall typing experience.

there is no such thing as style A is superior than style B. if you used the wrong parts, you can potentially throw away good qualities of the plate mounting style. if you looked closely, many are doing that.

it's all good, because for this hobby is entirely own preference-based. as long as owners are happy, anything goes

just take your time and try them out progressively, along with other basics like switch, plate, case, mods, etc.

this will help you shape better ideas on what's going on when you combine them together as a unit. you also learn how to choose the right parts, and control them to achieve desired outcomes.

--

this is tape mod explained. (you might wanna crawl comments for others' opinions too)



so, in short, the board is in your hands. just experiment it yourself.

edit: it's like what the video said, tape mod has mixed results, depending on how a boad is designed and built.

This post has been edited by horns: Nov 27 2021, 12:50 PM

kbd67lite r3, with kbdfans' 0.5mm eva foam, and case silicon pads.



in all honesty, it's a stiffer gasket mount kit. i guess it's the sound that most people like, not its gasket mount implementation.

edit: all in all, it's still a decent hot-swap kit, for the price, with so many goodies bundled.

This post has been edited by horns: Dec 1 2021, 02:07 AM