There are a lot of players in the market now and I may be out of date already, but here's my shortlist of either switches I like or am interested to try if I have the chance:

Gazzew Boba U4T
Zeal Zealio
JWK T1
Equalz X TKC Kiwi
NK X Kailh Blueberry

As long as your PCB has the holes for stabs, they can accept both screw in and clip on type PCB mounted stabs.

Nice summary. Just want to add a comment for my fave stabs, the Equalz C3. Their initial approach was similar to Staebies - Very tight tolerances to fix all noises and wire popping issues. To the point that there were issues with PBT spacebars and their V1s. I am daily driving their V2s and a few months ago I noticed 1 of the stems on my 2.75U KAT spacebar has cracked....

The current V3s hopefully solved this problem, I already have some for my next build.

Bro, he started the very first MKB thread.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1610986

This post has been edited by niakulah: May 24 2022, 05:55 PM

Failed post. Deleted.

This post has been edited by niakulah: May 25 2022, 08:41 PM

Gazzew fanboy strikes again!

From Goat's review for the Aqua King v3:
Immediately upon testing these switches I was drawn to comparing them to Gazzew’s Boba U4 switches in terms of wobble. Much like those near perfect switches with respect to wobble, these have absolutely no top housing wobble and only the most minor of stem wobbles in either direction.
https://www.theremingoat.com/blog/everglide...g-switch-review

Soldered build users triggered.

Ideally, do all your lubing and mods before soldering.

I killed my first MKB (prebuilt) by repeated desoldering for various mods.

My 2nd and 3rd boards were customs, both are still working today but have multiple jumper cables in them, again due to repeated desoldering.

This is the video I use for reference these days. This method works for me, IMO, because I am using C3 stabs which have very tight tolerances. OEM stabs that are quite loose would benefit from having thicker and more lube.

Good info as usual. I just got mine as well. Was planning to do a side by side comparison with C3 for my next build.

Yeah I came to the same realization about the stoppers as well. It basically is to reassure people who are used to screw in stabs, that this is just as secure as using screws.

When it rains, it pours. 2 rotary encoder orders from Ali and Taobao arrived at the same time.



From L-R
20mm detentless 0.5mm press
15mm detentless 0 5mm press
20mm high detents 0.5mm press
20mm high detents 1.5mm press
20mm low detents 0.5mm press
15mm low detents 1.5mm press

And as fate would have it, after testing, I would prefer 20mm post, either detentless or low detent, with 1.5mm press. A combination that I didn't order. Sigh....

Edit:added photos of the 20mm high detents 1.5mm press on the board with knob and a keycap and switch beside it. The 15mm will only allow the encoder to sit flush woth a KAT R1 keycap. I want it to be just a little bit higher.



This post has been edited by niakulah: Jun 11 2022, 06:16 PM

Started my side by side comparison test of C3 Equalz v3 and TX v3 stabs. Bottom (purple) is C3 and top (white) is TX.




Just on top of the PCB is a layer of PE foam. Then I mounted the stabs, penetrating the foam, in the Enter and right Shift position. On top of the foam are another 2 layers of EVA foam that I laser cut.

The locations were chosen to minimize any differences. To reduce differences further, I changed the TX stab wire to a C3 wire. I need to use the C3 wire because my build will eventually have 5 2U stabs, and both kits came with only 4 2U wires. I have bought and extra pack of C3 wires for this build. And lastly both switches were mounted with the same KAT 2.25U Shift keycap.

Switches were lubed but I didn't lube or mod the stabs in any other way.

The results:
C3 - had a slight ticking when tapping lightly on the left. No other noises.
TX - no wire or other stab noises at all.

That's all I had time to do last night. Next I will holee mod both stabs with the teflon strips included in the C3 Soulmate pack and test. And lastly I will lube and test.

So far it looks like the TX is superior, but I am hoping that by the end of my 3rd test, the difference is negligible or non-existent, purely because I want to use the C3 stabs because they more closely match the colour of my switches. Lol.

On another note, this is my first build that I am using linear switches. I find lubing linears more challenging than lubing tactiles in terms of consistency of the push feel. For tactiles, a large part of the feel is the bump on the stem and barring any manufacturing errors, these feel more or less the same. With linears, it is purely how smooth it is. I suspect the differences will go away with use and breaking in, but it kinda bugs me right now. I have no desire to desolder any switches to relube.

That is reassuring, thanks!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/epomak..._eid=644d194e4e

Going live in just under 9 hours. If I wasn't already in the middle of a build, I'd probably get this...

Layout is awesome, big knob, QMK. Yummy.

This post has been edited by niakulah: Jun 16 2022, 02:05 PM

Update on my 2 follow up tests.

1. Holee mod using C3 Soulmate teflon strips on both C3 and TX. TX became sluggish after holee mod. I think the tolerances are just too tight to accept anything more in the hole. All form of ticking and rattling noises on the C3 are totally gone. Removed the mod from the TX.

2. Lubed both using Krytox 205. Brushed the inside housing walls. Coated the end of the wires until just past the bend. No perceptible difference in either stab.


Conclusions.
C3 after holee mod is just as good as TX in removing any unwanted stab noises.
Lubing either of them is not strictly necessary in the short term. Long term it is probably a good idea, even though I have no actual proof.



So....in terms of wanting to eliminate unwanted stab noises, either C3 or TX will do the job. A bit more work required for the C3, but it is cheaper, more easily available, and comes in way more colours.

Now the next part is preference; Unfortunately for me, I find that the sound the TX makes is a much more pleasant thock than the C3. So despite the aesthetic advantages of the C3, I will be using the TX for my current build.

What’s the difference between the “QMK/VIA Version” and the “Wired & Wireless Version”?
The QMK/VIA Version is wired mode only, please choose the QMK version reward while pledging if you prefer using QMK/VIA. The Wired & Wireless (Tri-Connectivities) version supports by proprietary software only. Both versions can be remapped by using either VIA/QMK or the provided software.

The Tri-Connectivities version has both ANSI layout and ISO layout available, while the QMK/VIA Version has the ANSI layout only.


I didn't expect the QMK variant to be more expensive since there is no battery, no bluetooth card etc. I guess the MCU is more expensive?

Frankenstabs eh?

Just tried it and they both sound good! Now I don't know what to do

In the end went with TX sliders in C3 housing. Assembled but not yet soldered. Just need to test that I'm happy with the stabs and the foams before I solder.



This post has been edited by niakulah: Jun 21 2022, 01:36 PM

A list of MKB items sorted by biggest discount.....oh dear.

https://www.keeb.gg/discounts/all

horns what's your preferred spring weight for linear? At lighter weights, do you get accidental keypresses and if yes, how do you deal with them?

I think I truly ffff up by using 55g linears.