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SUSceo684
post Jul 21 2021, 01:46 PM

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QUOTE(jagjag @ Jul 21 2021, 01:42 PM)
Landed but i dare not to climb up to roof..its a pitch roof. Better get a sifu to do it once for all..
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Yup safer to get the pros for it. Our roof in MY not fully boarded up like US shingles roof, risk of falling thru is there.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jul 21 2021, 01:46 PM
SUSceo684
post Sep 20 2021, 12:14 PM

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QUOTE(ProSambalEater @ Sep 20 2021, 11:20 AM)
Hi all, wanna ask, is PU zinc roof very noisy compared with concrete/clay tiles? for a double storey house 22x70

My ultimate concern is to eliminate potential thieves breakin and leaking problems. but not sure on the noise levels. if only slightly noisier i still can live with it.
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Zinc roof like some school canteen or roadside mamak stall is rather noisy when raining..
SUSceo684
post Sep 20 2021, 01:48 PM

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QUOTE(ProSambalEater @ Sep 20 2021, 01:13 PM)
What u mean is those zinc roof with no insulation one. yes that one is damn noisy.

I am referring to another type, still the same zinc roof, but with PU foam underneath the roof. The pu foam is like a cushion.

Currently another house got one area of 14 x 16 with this PU roof, the noise level is not so noticeable. just wondering anyone is having this type of roof at home can share their experience.

Link for reference
https://www.yarkermetalroof.com.my/product/...pu-double-deck/
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Ahh it should be less noisy.. you can experiment spraying droplets of water using a hose on ur existing installation. As there's also ceiling board to further dampen the noise it shud be ok..but good to hear other users' feedback too for the insulated zinc.
SUSceo684
post Sep 28 2021, 05:13 AM

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QUOTE(tony_mw @ Sep 27 2021, 11:24 PM)
Hi guys, my contractor advise me to put a layer of zinc sheet underneath the clay tiles for better security. However, I've plan to put this kinda Aluminium foil in my roof system for better heat insulation as my house is a single storey house that facing west and Im kinda worried the heat during afternoon hours.

My question here is, will the aluminium foil does the job as the zinc sheet in this case? So that I can only put aluminium foil and save the cost for going zinc+aluminium foil instead. Tq
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Recommend using monier radenshield eg https://shopee.com.my/product/286308151/5353840667

It does work but its not supposed to stick directly..it need an airgap to work.
SUSceo684
post Sep 28 2021, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(tony_mw @ Sep 28 2021, 12:43 PM)
So in that says that it’s still fine to just place a layer of monier radenshield but it just doesn’t work like zinc+ aluminium right sis? And have you tried this monier radenshield before, is the heat reduction well? Thanks smile.gif
Thanks for your input, Urm… I think I shall gather more feedback on this whether it’s economically to put the aluminium foil then.
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Basically the radenshield is mounted say 2 inches below the roof tiles.. the mounting u can use existing roof batten as support like in https://www.insulation4less.com/installing-...insulate-a-roof or mount it on the bottom side of the battens..

This airgap of couple inches or so is the key for it to work. Heat comes in 3 ways, convection radiation and conduction. Sticking the radiant barrier (foil) on the bottom of the zink (with 0mm gap) defeat the purpose tongue.gif

Your choice of radenshield or other alu shield..personally i think radenshield works well when installed correctly (eg top floor of double storey hse) and its bomba approved not to be easily flammable.
SUSceo684
post Jan 11 2022, 07:00 PM

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QUOTE(Maknusia @ Jan 11 2022, 02:55 PM)
Its including minor wood and gutter replacement and side wall metal sheet(sorry forgot whats it called).

yeah I think its expensive as well
From my previous callings of multiple repairers over the las 7yrs or so, I dont think its roof issue its just the batten problem.

But I guess trying to fix just the batten is ot cost effective hence they suggest to a bigger replacement/project.

Some suggested to place aluzin sheet at the bottom and then place the current tiles on top of it. Finding where the leaking is not feasible it seems, do agree with this as well, its ot easy to find out the leak.

BTW, 7 yrs ago I had placed Aluminium Foil thruout my roof but it started to leak again, only during dec/jan when the rain is heavy and windy. ANd over the years been calling so may others and all failed depite paying so much. It only drips during really heavy-windy period, tapi leceh la, everytime need to run and get a bucket and ceiling all gets stained.

And during these repairs, those technicians had to cut open the alu foil to troubleshoot where the leak is, hence on some location these foils are cut open as well  bangwall.gif

BTW build size is 1800sqft. My hubby is in suggestion replacing the tiles, but I dont think thats the issue cry.gif  if its the tiles, i would have more leaks but it seems only the joints and roof merger location and wall.

If you could throw any ideas/suggestion will be good.  notworthy.gif  Any repairer contact as well. Tkasih

maybe will drag in ceo684 sis as well  wub.gif
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Hi, I'm not sure whether you're SS subang or USJ Subang. Roughly speaking from memory of SS-area Subang roofs, some have unorthodox designs better suited to warm and dry places.. not so suited for MY wet weather.
So these designs, they collect water at the seams and by now (the house age well into adulthood) rust thru zinc plates/mold at the wall.

First priority is to locate where the water leaks in.

You may want to do selective replacement of the ridge lines/seams (recommend Monier stuff) as there's the prime suspect.
Targeted roof tile replacement probably needed as there may be one or two that are not full tile. Instead of calling roofing people which are NOT that great in troubleshooting, they are better at INSTALLING lah let's just say - why not try to get a home inspector (those people that usually do defect checking for new VP property) with an IR (infrared/thermal imaging) gun to see where are the cold spots where water drips in. That is because water can blow through the gaps of either ridges or in between tiles.

This may entail creative solutions as setting up a scaffolding tower or two + water jet machine to simulate the effects of rain blown in. Still cheaper than complete roof replacement. Normal houses can't really walk around easily so you might also want to consider upgrading the "attic" to be walkable - it will take awhile to notice where it leaks - you can use metal grates (expanded metal mesh) + support beams so that its easy to walk around the whole area. The attic space is hot, that's one problem in itself and doesn't lend itself to extended troubleshooting whilst trying to balance on the rails (trying hard not to fall off into the ceiling).

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jan 11 2022, 07:06 PM

 

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