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 Recommend Myvi Engine Oil

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TSC0deXeus
post Feb 4 2020, 08:50 PM

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I went to a spare part shop I know today. The boss there give me Bardahl 10W sth can run 5K, cost RM60. I say dont want, then go with 5W-30 semi 4L from Perodua, slightly expensive at RM80. Stock oil filter RM8 and another oil filter cap wrench at RM12. Still have to look for the square L shape thing for wrench tho. Wonder why they don't sell together with the cap...

Well, overall cost higher than online. At least it's guaranteed genuine.
TSC0deXeus
post Feb 4 2020, 11:13 PM

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Btw, the worker asked if I needed air filter. I thought he meant the one for aircond intake which I just changed recently. Did Google just now and found it's the one at the engine bay. Normally need to change together with oil and filter or...?
cempedaklife
post Feb 5 2020, 06:48 AM

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QUOTE(C0deXeus @ Feb 4 2020, 11:13 PM)
Btw, the worker asked if I needed air filter. I thought he meant the one for aircond intake which I just changed recently. Did Google just now and found it's the one at the engine bay. Normally need to change together with oil and filter or...?
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No. Im not sure how long it can last but i always used to change once a year, just like the cabin air filter. Its cheap anyway
leon898
post Feb 5 2020, 08:50 AM

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QUOTE(C0deXeus @ Feb 4 2020, 11:13 PM)
Btw, the worker asked if I needed air filter. I thought he meant the one for aircond intake which I just changed recently. Did Google just now and found it's the one at the engine bay. Normally need to change together with oil and filter or...?
*
if it's dark and dirty, then needs to change....otherwise affect your TB just below the filter. Did the foreman shared the old filter with you?
giftfre
post Feb 5 2020, 09:32 AM

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I always use back Perodua 5W-30 Semi.

At this aged of car, many thing need to replace.

Gasket top and Roker valve gasket.
Compressor flush every 30 k km.
Air filter, cabin filter can replaced by urself.

Now I order spare part tru online platform.

This post has been edited by giftfre: Feb 5 2020, 09:34 AM
zeng
post Feb 5 2020, 10:23 AM

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QUOTE(C0deXeus @ Feb 4 2020, 11:13 PM)
Btw, the worker asked if I needed air filter. I thought he meant the one for aircond intake which I just changed recently. Did Google just now and found it's the one at the engine bay. Normally need to change together with oil and filter or...?
*
Perodua recommends engine air filter change every 40,000 km ,as someone suggested .
During my typical oil change intervals of about 15,000 km , my mechanic normally 'blow and clean' my air filter on his own initiative (Maybe ,he understands my preference or bias) .
Having said that, when my mechanic ever suggests changing the air filter (like RM25) I would always comply as it would have been in use around 60,000 km or more knowing he is being helpful not to waste .
Having gone through some used oil analyses (UOA's) and blotter spot tests , IMO engine air filters (and oil filters) are being replaced and changed ever so often ......

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 5 2020, 10:24 AM
zeng
post Feb 5 2020, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(C0deXeus @ Feb 4 2020, 08:50 PM)
Well, overall cost higher than online. At least it's guaranteed genuine.
*
Well, any branded (and Euro ACEA spec'ed) engine oil like Shell Castrol Total Elf Mobil ACEA AxBx or Cx etc from Aeonbig/Tesco/Giant is genuine IMO .

This post has been edited by zeng: Feb 5 2020, 10:29 AM
abubin
post Feb 5 2020, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(giftfre @ Feb 5 2020, 09:32 AM)
I always use back Perodua 5W-30 Semi.

At this aged of car, many thing need to replace.

Gasket top and Roker valve gasket.
Compressor flush every 30 k km.
Air filter, cabin filter can replaced by urself.

Now I order spare part tru online platform.
*
What's a roker valve gasket?
giftfre
post Feb 5 2020, 11:03 AM

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QUOTE(abubin @ Feb 5 2020, 10:56 AM)
What's a roker valve gasket?
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This. Some said Roker valve gasket or Valve cover Gasket
Attached Image
giftfre
post Feb 5 2020, 11:10 AM

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I just replace a APM Cooling coil (Gas leaking), Aircon pulley and Compressor oil system flushing.
Haiz shxt , for both of my car model Ezi 2007 & 2008.
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langatian
post Feb 5 2020, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(giftfre @ Feb 5 2020, 11:10 AM)
I just replace a APM Cooling coil (Gas leaking), Aircon pulley and Compressor oil system flushing.
Haiz shxt , for both of my car model Ezi 2007 & 2008.
Attached Image
Attached Image
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this one is wak john aircond at kajang right?
giftfre
post Feb 5 2020, 04:45 PM

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yes, he gave me a big sticker but I didn't use it.
Truly expert in aircon, reasonable price.
Gin87 P
post Dec 10 2020, 01:17 PM

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I don't know if it's just me or what, but I usually drive long distance, say 6-8 hours regularly, in hot M'sian weather, as we all know it.
From my observation, if I'm using 30 weight oil, doesn't matter if it's mineral 10W-30 or semi/full synthetic 5W-30, as per recommended in the manual, during those long hours of driving, I can hear the engine revving 'rough', like the engine was suffering screaming arrrghhhh or something like that, hahah.
I do understand about the recommendation of oil weight in relation to the engine's clearance, but out of geramness about the rough revving sound, I changed to Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, and walla, even after hours of driving under the blazing sun, the engine feels & sounds smooth, no straining screaming rough revving, the engine was like: "chill brah, I'm good".
And on one trip with my friend who's driving the new 2019 Myvi, that was using the centre's 0W-20, man.., the engine sounded so rough for a new car, screaming like it was dying..
That was my experience btw, so in terms of engine's clearance vs ambient temperature, I think the SAE engine oil weight recommendation in relation to ambient temperature does holding some truth.
abubin
post Dec 10 2020, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(Gin87 @ Dec 10 2020, 01:17 PM)
I don't know if it's just me or what, but I usually drive long distance, say 6-8 hours regularly, in hot M'sian weather, as we all know it.
From my observation, if I'm using 30 weight oil, doesn't matter if it's mineral 10W-30 or semi/full synthetic 5W-30, as per recommended in the manual, during those long hours of driving, I can hear the engine revving 'rough', like the engine was suffering screaming arrrghhhh or something like that, hahah.
I do understand about the recommendation of oil weight in relation to the engine's clearance, but out of geramness about the rough revving sound, I changed to Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, and walla, even after hours of driving under the blazing sun, the engine feels & sounds smooth, no straining screaming rough revving, the engine was like: "chill brah, I'm good".
And on one trip with my friend who's driving the new 2019 Myvi, that was using the centre's 0W-20, man.., the engine sounded so rough for a new car, screaming like it was dying..
That was my experience btw, so in terms of engine's clearance vs ambient temperature, I think the SAE engine oil weight recommendation in relation to ambient temperature does holding some truth.
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This is good information from the point of user. Cause all these cars when they test in the lab usually in controlled environment. However, for cars like Perodua I am sure they would have tested them under Malaysia's climate. It is strange for the recommended oil to be not suitable for Malaysia environment. Anyway, it is best to stick to manufacturer's recommended oil rating. Change it to higher only if you know what you are doing like in this case.
Thrust
post Dec 10 2020, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(Gin87 @ Dec 10 2020, 01:17 PM)
I don't know if it's just me or what, but I usually drive long distance, say 6-8 hours regularly, in hot M'sian weather, as we all know it.
From my observation, if I'm using 30 weight oil, doesn't matter if it's mineral 10W-30 or semi/full synthetic 5W-30, as per recommended in the manual, during those long hours of driving, I can hear the engine revving 'rough', like the engine was suffering screaming arrrghhhh or something like that, hahah.
I do understand about the recommendation of oil weight in relation to the engine's clearance, but out of geramness about the rough revving sound, I changed to Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, and walla, even after hours of driving under the blazing sun, the engine feels & sounds smooth, no straining screaming rough revving, the engine was like: "chill brah, I'm good".
And on one trip with my friend who's driving the new 2019 Myvi, that was using the centre's 0W-20, man.., the engine sounded so rough for a new car, screaming like it was dying..
That was my experience btw, so in terms of engine's clearance vs ambient temperature, I think the SAE engine oil weight recommendation in relation to ambient temperature does holding some truth.
*
I believe the 40 weight oil, because it is thicker, the engine will be quieter.

The lighter the oil is, the noisier it gets. Just try stirring water and stir honey. The sound is different due to the thickness of the liquid.
Steponlego
post Dec 10 2020, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(Gin87 @ Dec 10 2020, 01:17 PM)
I don't know if it's just me or what, but I usually drive long distance, say 6-8 hours regularly, in hot M'sian weather, as we all know it.
From my observation, if I'm using 30 weight oil, doesn't matter if it's mineral 10W-30 or semi/full synthetic 5W-30, as per recommended in the manual, during those long hours of driving, I can hear the engine revving 'rough', like the engine was suffering screaming arrrghhhh or something like that, hahah.
I do understand about the recommendation of oil weight in relation to the engine's clearance, but out of geramness about the rough revving sound, I changed to Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, and walla, even after hours of driving under the blazing sun, the engine feels & sounds smooth, no straining screaming rough revving, the engine was like: "chill brah, I'm good".
And on one trip with my friend who's driving the new 2019 Myvi, that was using the centre's 0W-20, man.., the engine sounded so rough for a new car, screaming like it was dying..
That was my experience btw, so in terms of engine's clearance vs ambient temperature, I think the SAE engine oil weight recommendation in relation to ambient temperature does holding some truth.
*
Always stick to manufacturer recommended. Thicker oil can leads to not enough oil flowing where it should be flowing. Especially for Myvi engine where they specifically said to use 0w20 or 10w30.
TSC0deXeus
post Jan 2 2022, 12:21 PM

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Sifus,

I need help. Yesterday I did oil change for my Myvi 2008. Using Pennzoil Blitz 5W-30. I read online this car only needs about 3.5L. The bottle is 4l. I filled until the Pennzoil left little bit but the dipstick level is only above .5mm from the minimum level dot. I inspected the car has no leak. Should I continue to fill? I worry the whole bottle really gonna fill in
NoobHacker
post Jan 2 2022, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(C0deXeus @ Jan 2 2022, 12:21 PM)
Sifus,

I need help. Yesterday I did oil change for my Myvi 2008. Using Pennzoil Blitz 5W-30. I read online this car only needs about 3.5L. The bottle is 4l. I filled until the Pennzoil left little bit but the dipstick level is only above .5mm from the minimum level dot. I inspected the car has no leak. Should I continue to fill? I worry the whole bottle really gonna fill in
*
uhh not expert but i changed my oil on my own before. try adding 100ml more and see if it increases higher than .5mm?
TSC0deXeus
post Jan 2 2022, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(NoobHacker @ Jan 2 2022, 01:07 PM)
uhh not expert but i changed my oil on my own before. try adding 100ml more and see if it increases higher than .5mm?
*
Yeah it did. That was a dumb question. I did overfill my Axia before so this time with Myvi I was scared when the bottle left little bit. Now the level is almost full.

Even dumber is that, my oil filter is not changed. I did not notice the filter is screwed so tight. Guess what, yesterday is a public holiday. I couldn't buy filter wrench. Today need to use car, no choice lor. I hate the mechanics for using those pneumatic drivers. Everything is bolted super tight.

Btw, Pennzoil Blitz 5W-30 is so powerrrrr. A full tank of gas, all tyres filled up, engine oil changed. OMG, farking smooth. Next up I need to change Iridium spark plugs also bruce.gif

This post has been edited by C0deXeus: Jan 2 2022, 09:17 PM
LA773
post Jul 7 2024, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Feb 1 2020, 12:36 AM)
I drive same year 2008 Myvi 1.3 Ezi. 12 years old car don't change to thin oil. Keep it at 10/30 or 10/40 semi synthetic. By this time all the gaskets and seals would have hardened. Leaks will appear.

Only last month i changed the valve cover oil seal/gasket set. Bottom has some leak that seems to come from where gearbox & engine meet. That also needs to be changed.

So if you have been using 10/30 or 10/40, just keep using that. Do remember that once you change to fully synthetic, it would clean the carbon build up at the gaskets that actually seal the leaks. And you get leaking engine oil on floor.

I kena with my old corolla and also this myvi. Was using semi syn all the while and changed to fully and oil leak. hahah.
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My wife myvi 2006 recently also start to see leaks at the bottom, think is the oil filter bracket o ring & the flywheel seal. Suspect due to change to fully synthetic with Esther engine oil, based on your experience

So, did u fix the leak or just change back to semi synthetic since its minor sip, bit those dripping leaks

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