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 BMW E46

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dylan_chng
post Jan 17 2020, 10:05 PM

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I would say go for it. Get a manual if you can but an auto is probably more common. You'll have tons of fun. Parts are out there. Just be resonable with your expectations. It's a car from a 1990's. It's parts and ease of maintence won't be as easy as a modern car but shouldn't be a pain in the ass either.
mengsuan
post Jan 17 2020, 10:52 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 17 2020, 08:38 AM)
hey long time no see! i never knew you''re into track as well!  wub.gif
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9th February, my manual E36 will be going to MIMC for time attack. The event is under Sucimuci Motorsports https://www.facebook.com/sucimucimotorsports/

To TS, E36 and E46 both have strong community support. Parts, especially wear and tear parts are easily obtainable, at reasonable price competitive to current Honda etc. Expensive parts are usually non wear and tear parts like body trim.

This is my car, and I share my experiences of my E36 on Youtube too. This was my first video. I'm eager to meet similar group of people for DIY, maintenance and performance optimisation stuff.


small-jeff
post Jan 18 2020, 12:01 AM

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Hijack abit... what abiut 335i N55?
Quazacolt
post Jan 18 2020, 12:30 AM

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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Jan 17 2020, 10:52 PM)
9th February, my manual E36 will be going to MIMC for time attack. The event is under Sucimuci Motorsports https://www.facebook.com/sucimucimotorsports/

This is my car, and I share my experiences of my E36 on Youtube too.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Nice bro!
I'll be at Melaka, however will be busy with my wedding notworthy.gif

If anything, the 330 E46 started my passion for RWD

if it weren't for the 330CI test driving experience (I hated the manual shifter gating and pedal placements) and maintenance consideration requiring a decent amount of savings and cash which I didn't have, I may have been driving a E46 instead of my 86 today wink.gif
blmse92
post Jan 18 2020, 01:43 PM

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Just get it

This post has been edited by blmse92: Jan 19 2020, 01:45 PM
wild_card_my
post Jan 19 2020, 12:04 PM

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QUOTE(digilife @ Jan 14 2020, 03:58 PM)
If you have driven those newer ones like F10 or F30 [ sheer driving pleasure tagline ] , those older ones like E36/46  [ ultimate driving machine tag line] is  nothing .......
I heard that the new G20 [ latest 3 series ] is even more awesome............ like how Maverick handling a jet fighter in the movie Topgun.

Abt workshop, you can refer to the list provided by members in the BMWClub MY.

But remember to own a older BMW, you must have a backup car just incase your beemer Banyak Masok Workshop . LOL
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My first BMW that I drove was the title namesake, the E36 328i, puke-green color. It was stupid heavy, including the steering, my dad changed it to heavier rims with much thinner tires, oh well. It was a good machine but the GB gucked up after a while, not 7 years after purchase. Between that E36 and my G20, I have driven and owned countless cars.

Nothing has as a good a handling as the G20 at that price point and below. Not even the F30, I really feel sorry for those who bought F30 this year, especially the 318i due to BMW promotions since the G20 320i can be had for just RM228k after fleet discounts. Fleet discounts are easy if you are a professional, I alone have access to three fleet discounts - Petronas, ACC, Prudential

This post has been edited by wild_card_my: Jan 19 2020, 12:07 PM
TSHalseyFrangipane
post Jul 18 2020, 03:14 PM

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Updated
Quazacolt
post Jul 18 2020, 07:57 PM

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QUOTE(HalseyFrangipane @ Jan 14 2020, 12:21 PM)
I have decided to opt for an E46 instead. Currently on the lookout for either M54B25/B30, face lifted.

Not sure if this approach is feasible/advisable, but since it's not easy to find a 330i at the moment, is it alright to get any available 330i on the market right now, and set aside a 5-10k budget for all major repairs? I understand that it is always better to find one from an owner who has maintenance records but looks like the current supply is limited. So I thought maybe I'll just get one regardless of the condition and repair it from scratch. Feedback regarding this would be appreciated.

As for E46 specialists, any place to recommend or which you currently frequent? I am aware that BMW Club MY has a lot of info regarding E46 but maybe getting an updated info from 2020 would be great.

Also, is there any place that does a full inspection of a used E46 to find out what components require fixing? Is it advisable to do this?

In regards to important repairs when the car is purchased, I have seen that these parts are most frequently mentioned that require immediate attention:
1. Cooling system, expansion tank, radiator, water pump, thermostat, fan clutch.
2. Control arms bushings, rear trailing arms bushings.
3. Fuel pump, throttle body intake boots, sealing ring.
4. Crankcase vent system, vacuum tubing.
5. Alternator, a/c blower final stage resistor, pulleys and belts, starter, sub frame mounts.

I have seen feedback to check the rear frame but I believe face lifted bodies may have rectified this issue?

I have several other cars as backup, but would like something fun to drive on a daily basis.
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i've had my friend poisoned me on E46 and he have given me a lot of tips so i'll try to share them.

Definitely go with the 330 3 liter straight 6 NA double VANOS especially if you don't mind paying the extra road tax.
That alone makes the E46 ownership much more worth it.

are you getting the manual or auto? if manual, consider modifying the gear linkages/pedals. those were my breaking point to cross the E46 out of my list when i was looking for a fun Manual RWD NA coupe sports car.

For the SMG, you may want to look out for its seals, and transmission filter, or just replace them when you first collect the car.
it's a huge hit and miss for an automatic manual of that era, so test drive is crucial to make sure it is shifting properly.

now on your questions, i wouldn't say feasible or not, but "desperation"/how b bad you want an E46 may get you into some money pits/lemons.
5-10k is actually a bit low if you think of major repairs.
If the rear sub frame requires repairing/fixing, that alone is between 5-10k already depending on how much body repairs, bushing and linkages replacements are required.
If your drive train have bad leaks (not surprising considering that age of cars) easily can take up 5-10k per engine or transmission that can total up easily in the ball park of 10-20k.
That's one of the reasons people generally don't bother rebuilding their drive train properly and just opt to gamble with half cut and/or engine swap (Japanese car engines, like 2JZ)

many things especially suspension/drive trains are wear and tear.
Some people say no problem (in any cars, not just contis), when they are usually just being ignorant of the issue, and typically just pass to the next owner.
so if REALLY major repairs, depending on how major also, you're looking at 10-20k, easily double up from the initial expectations you're having.
i highly doubt you'll get an owner with full BMW service records, because any service records outside don't mean a whole lot to be very honest.
Mileage can be tampered, servicing chops/stamps can be "bought". you get the idea.
If you're having a worst case expectation in getting into ownership, that is good. but your cash gotta beef up. If you can have a huge cash reserve standing by, there is no issue at all.

no idea on specialists since i didn't get to own one myself.
you're correct on the frequently mentioned items, and just those 5 items alone, not including full engine and transmission tear down/rebuild, and sub frame and/or body work (at the rear sub frame) included, you're already looking at least between 5-10k - at your limit of money to prepare. and again, besides the cooling system, those listed are not major issues.

the facelift does rectify most of the rear sub frame issue, but rust is a thing back then and somewhat depend if the car have been in an accident or not and maybe power modifications.
so even if facelift, you still need to inspect the rear properly.

a 330ci i've inspected before (and test driven), the rear subframe is completely rusted and all the bushings and linkages cracked. front drive train all leaking oil...
my head already having 5 digit numbers calculating and i definitely don't have huge cash reserve sitting around. (and also the manual shifting experience of old BMWs)
TSHalseyFrangipane
post Jul 18 2020, 08:38 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 18 2020, 07:57 PM)
i've had my friend poisoned me on E46 and he have given me a lot of tips so i'll try to share them.

Definitely go with the 330 3 liter straight 6 NA double VANOS especially if you don't mind paying the extra road tax.
That alone makes the E46 ownership much more worth it.

are you getting the manual or auto? if manual, consider modifying the gear linkages/pedals. those were my breaking point to cross the E46 out of my list when i was looking for a fun Manual RWD NA coupe sports car.

For the SMG, you may want to look out for its seals, and transmission filter, or just replace them when you first collect the car.
it's a huge hit and miss for an automatic manual of that era, so test drive is crucial to make sure it is shifting properly.

now on your questions, i wouldn't say feasible or not, but "desperation"/how b bad you want an E46 may get you into some money pits/lemons.
5-10k is actually a bit low if you think of major repairs.
If the rear sub frame requires repairing/fixing, that alone is between 5-10k already depending on how much body repairs, bushing and linkages replacements are required.
If your drive train have bad leaks (not surprising considering that age of cars) easily can take up 5-10k per engine or transmission that can total up easily in the ball park of 10-20k.
That's one of the reasons people generally don't bother rebuilding their drive train properly and just opt to gamble with half cut and/or engine swap (Japanese car engines, like 2JZ)

many things especially suspension/drive trains are wear and tear.
Some people say no problem (in any cars, not just contis), when they are usually just being ignorant of the issue, and typically just pass to the next owner.
so if REALLY major repairs, depending on how major also, you're looking at 10-20k, easily double up from the initial expectations you're having.
i highly doubt you'll get an owner with full BMW service records, because any service records outside don't mean a whole lot to be very honest.
Mileage can be tampered, servicing chops/stamps can be "bought". you get the idea.
If you're having a worst case expectation in getting into ownership, that is good. but your cash gotta beef up. If you can have a huge cash reserve standing by, there is no issue at all.

no idea on specialists since i didn't get to own one myself.
you're correct on the frequently mentioned items, and just those 5 items alone, not including full engine and transmission tear down/rebuild, and sub frame and/or body work (at the rear sub frame) included, you're already looking at least between 5-10k - at your limit of money to prepare. and again, besides the cooling system, those listed are not major issues.

the facelift does rectify most of the rear sub frame issue, but rust is a thing back then and somewhat depend if the car have been in an accident or not and maybe power modifications.
so even if facelift, you still need to inspect the rear properly.

a 330ci i've inspected before (and test driven), the rear subframe is completely rusted and all the bushings and linkages cracked. front drive train all leaking oil...
my head already having 5 digit numbers calculating and i definitely don't have huge cash reserve sitting around. (and also the manual shifting experience of old BMWs)
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I would be looking for an automatic transmission as it will be used as a daily driver (stuck in traffic for a while).

I guess it is safe to assume that I would need to set aside between 20-30k(worst case scenario) for initial repairs and preventive maintenance. Thank you for the really informative feedback. Helps a lot with planning. smile.gif
empire
post Jul 23 2020, 12:59 PM

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04gTnckMaeo Dont buy e46! You can thank me later.
E46 is supposed to be superior to E36 but it is a very problematic car. Its electronics and sensors are the biggest headache and you dont wanna go through such a torture. There are so many more things you dont want in a car...and E46 has all of these :-)

Better watch the video and after that, dont think about E46 anymore.

This post has been edited by empire: Jul 23 2020, 01:06 PM
empire
post Jul 23 2020, 01:12 PM

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E46 is also heavier than E36. This extra weight affects the fuel consumption and makes the car slower and takes more effort to go uphill than E36 too. When the the extra weight, the gearbox also has to work harder...thus wear and tear is also greater.



This post has been edited by empire: Jul 23 2020, 01:16 PM
axtray
post Jul 23 2020, 07:42 PM

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5-10k definitely not enough tbh. Mind you this is me speaking from my own experience (used to own an e36).

Unless you got the car from an enthusiast who pampers the car and very meticulous with the wear and tear replacement, well, maybe. But surely they wont be selling it cheap like the ones you find from used car or normal owners. But if you can find one, and can afford one, get it!

Like the others had said, make sure you get with m54 engines. The engines if the previous owner takes care of it is pretty bullet proof. Tho if the mileage is high, spare some cash for vanos seal replacement and do a re-timing of the valves. You'll definitely feel the difference if this had not been done. 2.5 is good enough imo, but if you want to give the modern ones a run for their money, definitely the 3.0. Road tax will set you back at 2.1k every year.

Find out when the bushings were last replaced. If have the money replace all of them.

Personal opinion, id avoid the smg. But if im not mistaken, the smg can be converted pretty easily to manual since the gb itself is a manual unit just with computerized clutch actuation.
Quazacolt
post Jul 24 2020, 10:40 AM

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QUOTE(axtray @ Jul 23 2020, 07:42 PM)
Personal opinion, id avoid the smg. But if im not mistaken, the smg can be converted pretty easily to manual since the gb itself is a manual unit just with computerized clutch actuation.
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But the manual is so bad sad.gif

Unless can completely modify the shifter linkages and gating, and the pedals - raise the accelerator a LOT, or lower the brakes a lot, or a combination of both, and then have them placed closer

Probably not the brakes since you don't know if you need that travel length.
TSHalseyFrangipane
post Sep 19 2020, 04:33 PM

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New update! Bumped!
kitongti
post Sep 27 2020, 10:32 PM

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QUOTE(leon898 @ Jan 15 2020, 01:45 PM)
if compared to W210 from Merc, which one is more reliable?
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w210 is much more reliable..... and cheap maintenance too
Selectt
post Sep 27 2020, 10:40 PM

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QUOTE(empire @ Jul 23 2020, 12:59 PM)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04gTnckMaeo Dont buy e46! You can thank me later.
E46 is supposed to be superior to E36 but it is a very problematic car. Its electronics and sensors are the biggest headache and you dont wanna go through such a torture. There are so many more things you dont want in a car...and E46 has all of these :-)

Better watch the video and after that, dont think about E46 anymore.
*
how dare you didnt tag e46 lol
TSHalseyFrangipane
post Oct 5 2020, 01:24 PM

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Is it worth tuning the ECU/remap for E46 325i M54B25, ZF automatic gearbox? Feels like the throttle response in first gear is quite sluggish or slow unless I put it in steptronic/sport mode.

This post has been edited by HalseyFrangipane: Oct 5 2020, 01:25 PM
Lanchio
post Oct 5 2020, 03:18 PM

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QUOTE(HalseyFrangipane @ Oct 5 2020, 01:24 PM)
Is it worth tuning the ECU/remap for E46 325i M54B25, ZF automatic gearbox? Feels like the throttle response in first gear is quite sluggish or slow unless I put it in steptronic/sport mode.
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Frankly, try to keep stock engine & drive train as much as possible. Less headache especially when it's already showing signs of age. Troubleshooting an aged Conti is already difficult as it is.

Your engine & drivetrain sad to say is worn due to wear and tear. The more expensive and difficult way to restore power back is an overhaul and this a long term fix which will serve you better in the long run.

In the short term, when was the last time your 325 had the ATF & filter changed? Can start there but your long term solution is as above, an overhaul. (Many will not agree with me on ATF additive but you may want to read up about ATF additive called Lubegard. Either Red or Platinum. Only add to new ATF for best results.)
LORD SK
post Apr 14 2021, 06:34 PM

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TSHalseyFrangipane
post Apr 14 2021, 11:58 PM

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QUOTE(LORD SK @ Apr 14 2021, 06:34 PM)
So how is your purchase doing ?  I am looking for one of those too. How was your experience.
Really happy with it, although things always don't go according to plan.

Bought a decently kept one for higher than average price. Still had to change a lot of wear and tear stuff. My first biggest mistake was believing that he will give me a full service record history. End up he just kept delaying the process with excuses such as looking for the receipts so I just assume I won't be getting any.

So my first biggest advice would be to make sure you get one with a full history to save yourself a lot of headache.

My second advice would be to make sure you do your due diligence and research. Study and read up. There are a lot of guides online that give you lots of info, forums, youtube. All of these will teach you on what to look out for, what needs to be done.

Third advice, have a decent mechanic or specialist. And as for parts, source them from Bavarian Auto, Stuttgart, or halfcut. Use sites like RealOEM to identify which parts you need.

Overall, I really enjoy the experience. I've been looking for excuses to go out just to drive my car. I also learn new stuff about cars every time something breaks, and this knowledge can be applied to every other car in general.

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This post has been edited by HalseyFrangipane: Apr 15 2021, 12:52 AM

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