Question and Answer about modeling technique can be ask HERE
If you still insist and still posting question in here...it will be remove/deleted immediately from here...so dont waste your time posting in here and straight post your question at the proper thread.

OK for those really really new to gunpla...question about gundam grading are always become a deja vu in gundam thread...so i stated it here for easy reference.

Perfect Grade(PG) - 1/60 - the most details and have alot of parts. most of the time the eyes part can glow and usually come in a big box

Master Grade (MG) - 1/100 - the most popular grade among others. second most details kits than perfect grade. has a inner frame and also outside armour.

Normal/Non Grade (NG) - 1/100, 1/60(Big Scale NG) - MG scale with no inner frame and also of course less details than MGs

High Grade(HG) - 1/144 - NG level with smaller scale.

First Grade(FG) - 1/144 - The most less details grade among all...usually been mold in just 2 or 3 basic colors. and the manual usually printed on the box

Speed Grade(SG) - 1/200 - Painted kit straight on the runner...just cut the piece out and assemble...minor lining needed to look more nicer

Super Deform(SD) - err...short gundam with big head??

Gundam Fix Figuration(GFF) - 1/144, 1/100(most of them are from Metal Series) - Painted gundams model(usually a very nice paint job)...or also can be consider as a action figure...take out from the box and straight display

SHCM Pro/HCM Pro - 1/200, 1/144 - same as GFF version but smaller and lesser details and paint job

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Type of Decal

Water Slide - Blue - Need water to applied this type of decal and also the most nicest among other type. usually after been applied nicely the decal will look like it been painted on the model

Dry Transfer - Transparent/White - Usually comes with MG set along with sticker type decal. This decal need to be rub on the kit surface to apply.

Sticker/Glue Decal - Green - Most commonly comes with MGs and also sometimes HGs set. sticker type and can be directly apply on the kit

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For those who just start build gunpla or other model...here are some of the tools that i use, and what they do.

First..these are the basic tools you need..

Cutter
- also sometimes knows as Nippers/Side cutters are a must if you are making many models. Nail clippers can do the job but this is much more comfortable and faster


Craft Knife
- All purpose knife for cutting plastic and also scraping away flash lines. Blade are change-able
*the picture show 2 of my craft knife..the red one i usually use to cut decal and the grey one is my main knife, to shave the parts


...and some others for advance modelling, painting and modding...

Cutting Mat
- Useful for cutting masking tape. It has gridlines to guide and make sure things are lined up straight


SandPaper
- your super duper best friend! It is the most used tool in the modelling process. Without it, a nice smooth finish is almost impossible. There are 2 kinds, wet and dry. Wet clogs up faster but produces a smoother finish. Sandpaper used dry last longer. They also comes in different roughness or grit. A higher grit produces a smother finish but clogs up faster. Use the right grit for the right job.


Cement
- this liquid cement disolves styrene plastic. When applied to 2 surfaces and pushed together, the surfaces are more o rless permanently stuck together as one


Masking Tape (tamiya)
- Expensive masking tape...use and throw. Masking tape are use to cover those parts that you dont want to spray or paint on.


Masking Tape
- same as tamiya masking tape and also cheaper alternative. careful with this normal masking tape and make sure you buy a good one as some cheaper one leave behind glue on you plastic which is bad news. Recommended to mask a very large area as they are cheaper to waste rather than the tamiya masking.


Masking Neo
- this is still a masking tape, only in a liquid form. it dries up as something like a rubber. good to cover up those transparent areas when you wanna do spraying.


This post has been edited by VincC454: Jun 9 2009, 06:42 PM

Super Glue
- Super glue comes in different consistencies, some runny, some a bit thicker. Its good because it hardens really good and can also be used to fill seams and gaps. There are also thin nozzle to apply small amount accurately


Knife
- well..i didnt use this tool much actually..can be use as alternative to craft knife...but it is very dangerous as you can accidentally cut your fingers


Metal Ruler
- My trusty 30cm metal ruler help me to sand flat. If you use your fingers to sand, chances are you hare going to lose some nice panel edges and angles. You could use a table or flat surface to sandm but its less easy to work with than a ruler. This ruler still flexes abit but its a good balance between flat surface and ease of movement.


Tacks
- can be use to hold parts when do spraying and painting. also as some one suggest sometimes can be use as a replace to a masking tape.


Cleaning Brush
- to clean and brush off those parts that you just sand, also can use toothbrush for this job, up to you


Paints
- 3 kinds - enamel, laquer and acrylic. Listed in descending order of toughness, difficulty of use, drying and curing time

Enamel Paint
- Enamel paint for panel lining. Enamels have used a relatively mild petroleum-based solvent. They are an extremely stable paint and can last for decades without degrading, if properly stored. There are now enamels that dry nearly as fast as lacquers and nearly as hard.


Enamel Thinner
- For enamel paints. Usually use for applying washes to panel lines.

This post has been edited by VincC454: Nov 7 2007, 10:04 AM

Laquer Paint
- Lacquers tend to dry quicker and to a harder consistency than enamels.


Laquer Thinner
- Used for laquer paints.


Retarder
- Used to slow down the thinning of paint so that it can level, especially for gloss paints, It also prevent the paint from spider-webbing due to the paint drying when it comes out of the airbrush.


Bamboo/ Satay Sticks
- Use to hold parts while spraying them.


Lump-of-dense-foam
- Dense foam works much better than noraml styrofoam. It doesnt flake all over the place and its semi self healing

Compressor
- My compressor is a mini one and also no need for oil, its quiet and it produces enough pressure one airbrush.

Airbrush
-Its a double action meaning air and paint mix can be controlled. Pressing down the trigger will release the air and pulling back will release the paint. Totally essential for a nice controlled paintjob


Cotton Bud/Swabs
- Sometimes you need to clean up a small hard to reach areas. And also it can be use to clean up those extra when you do panel lining with water base lining markers


Topcoat
- A kind of spray to coat the model with a proctective layer. Comes in Gloss, Semi-Gloss and Flat types


This post has been edited by VincC454: Nov 7 2007, 10:01 AM

Decal Softener
This liquid makes decal soft and conform to the surface it is stuck on. Usually on a gloss surface across the panel lines, the decal is cut and this liquid is brushed on to let the decal stick in the insides of the line to make it look painted on


Acrylic Paint
- water base paint. Some people think aqueous paint doesn't "stick" to styrene parts like chemical paint. Aqueous paint is more sensitive to humidity and temperature.


Needle Nose Tweezers
- Excellent for holding very small pieces such as details parts. Also great for applying decals

Primer
- Spraying primer on your model before you paint will give the paint a surface to better adhere to rather tan bare plastic


Pastels
- Pastel can be grinded into powder to be used in weathering a model. Pastels come in two kinds, soft and oil pastels, and i only recommend the soft pastels

This post has been edited by VincC454: Nov 7 2007, 10:02 AM

Some Colors Charts and Mr.Hobby Tools and Products.


Tamiya Enamel and Acrylic Paint Chart



Mr.Hobby Products Chart







This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 16 2008, 03:34 PM