I tried this bike before from a friend who wanted to buy a bike to commute to work. Its a commuter and endurance bike rather than a race bike...which explained why the frame geometry geared towards comfort ride rather than aggressive riding; it have QR hub for disc rather than thru axle and have bunch of eyelets bracket for mounting cage, bags and fenders around the fork and rear triangle. Its very comfort to ride and ideal for long ride but when i try to sprint its a bit lower responsiveness both acceleration and handling...quite heavy too...hard to keep up with traffic. When hard cornering or stand up pedaling pushing the bike side to side the disc rotor have a bit rubbing causes much resistance which is why many true road disc brake have to use thru axle type hub to avoid flex.

Btw its a good bike for long distance ride and relaxing ride. But if you wanted to convert this bike into competitive racer and keep up with other rider you'll need to upgrade to lighter wheels and lower rolling resistance tires like Continental Grand Prix 5000 or Specialized Turbo Cotton which popular choice among local riders. You can find out details about rolling resistance here: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews

And also check make sure you have ample leg room to flex around as you pedal which is why many rider have seat higher than their handlebars. Crank length count too...i have to order special crank from Taiwan and UK for 160mm to 155mm crank to match my cadence. More likely if the bike is for Malaysian market you likely to own between 170mm, 172mm or 175mm crank length which can be struggle to pedal on asian size height.

Btw found another review about the bike here: https://road.cc/content/review/252475-triba...-disc-road-bike

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Mar 17 2020, 09:21 PM

Specialized Tarmac SL6 disc or comp is a great endurance road bike such as for millennium ride or tour racing hence why its called TARMAC; comfort for long distance racing because its carbon frame eliminate road buzz so you would able to seat longer for hours without fatigue. It feels 'lively' when you ride on it...i;ve tested before during long distance group ride.

Cannondale CAAD 13 is build for sprint and crit like racing..a good all rounder race for an aluminum; full power transfer to the rear wheel but not so comfort for long hours rides ...its closest rival to specialized with same capability is the Specialized Allez Sprint.

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Apr 13 2020, 12:46 PM

Anyone in this forum commute to work on road bike daily? Sharing my piece.

I used Topeak patch too, unfortunately it won't last long because once the tube started to deflate the patch surface will be creased and loose 'longkang' started to show up will leak on second deflate after pumping. Patching on small diameter road bike tire can challenging because the patch sticking surface curve on the wall is too 'round'. However patch works on bigger diameter tube on mountain bike because the tube wall almost flat and doesn't promote peeling. If talking about going tubeless solution for road bike even worse because my Stans sealant guzz out like spray down the road during nail puncture. So best way for me to stick to tube is to seal it traditionally using 'apek' style manual glue'ing and patch...works great. I just did another apek style patch yesterday on my road tire looking good on my way to commute office.

Beautiful day to ride home. My usual cycling path.

Photo:

If sakit jubo means your sit bone didn't seat properly on the padded end of the saddle. Your body probably stretched too much that you ended up seating on your crotch instead of sit bone/butt. Try shift/move the saddle forward and adjust the stem length to shorter so you your body fits inside the cockpit nicely with curl body posture. If you can't move you saddle forward then check if your seat post have 'off-set' pivot clamp. Find seat post clamp with zero off-set so you can move the saddle closer forward. Also experiment with different stem length. I used to have problem with back pain but now its perfect. I never wear padded shorts because my butt seat nicely on my rear 10 year old saddle. My seat/saddle are extremely forward and have 30mm stem size. You can do your own bike fitting because you know your body well than bike fitter service because people are born with different body geometry.

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jul 17 2020, 07:39 PM

Riding back from work on hot sunny day. No rain for whole week.

You don't need 11s to climb. With 10s casette running on bigger 'T' helps.


My 11s Shimano 105 R7000 are setup with climbing gearing ratio. Running on these setup.

+ Compact crankset 105 50-34t (arm 160mm length) << Ordered from Taiwan for small compact around $rm650
+ Shimano SLX 42-11t casette.
+ Add wolftooth rd extender

I live up the hills so i have to climb home extremely steep gradient everyday.

Here's how my setup looked like below:




This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jun 1 2021, 11:28 PM

You don't have to change to compact crank just to climb, you'll just need to get the right gearing ratio at the back to your liking. Climber ratio with stock crankset will have longer chain and cross chain problem.
You still can get a cheap quality compact crank under rm$700 with import tax like branded SUGINO, THORN or FSA. Unless you're looking at rm1K ROTOR ALDHU or with Ant sensor for Strava but they all feel the same across brands. But a change on the crank is a must to fit your length of your leg and narrow Q-factor, since i am a short rider having disadvantages climbing hills i have to use 160mm crank and 155mm crank on my other bike. I used to see a roadie putting just rm$350 mods by just changing a casette size and he has a perfect climber bike.

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jun 2 2021, 11:02 AM

Yes i read your post about going 10 to 11s, ultegra or upgrades for climbing but doesn't make sense why it cost 3k to upgrade. My whole groupset replacement costs $2,200 going from worn out Sora 9 speed to R7000 105 11 speed at local branded Specialized bike shop on my 13 year old aluminum road bike. The balance moneys goes into carbon parts and quality branded lightweight climber wheels with ceramics bearings. Btw last time decided to go for 105 since it has the advantage being durable and beefy and shifts like an Ultegra. andrewhtf was right, some setup doesn't to be expensive. After a good budget upgrade/replacement i was having a blast riding my bike all day and climbing...by the time i reach home i felt like i haven't been doing exercise since there no more pain on my legs or body...perfect setup.

Bike underwent full groupset upgrade:


This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jun 2 2021, 03:35 PM

Well in that case upgrade to Ultegra seems to be the best choice. Btw extra important tips before buying; when you buy the Ultegra groupset especially with brifter and crankset included make sure you get full shimano warranty best if you get local shimano support because new SHIMANO groupset from 105 tiers up to Dura ace quality seems to have lots of problem unlike shimano components 10 years ago. Two of my friend cracked 2x ultegra cranks, me i have shifting failure on 105 and others also on ultegra brifter seems they share the same mechanism. I complained to Shimano agents but they cannot honor my warranty after 13 months of use. So i posted on youtube about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mCwvDtRw8U
Make sure you get full warranty on all Shimano parts and keep the receipt for proof of purchase.






This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jun 2 2021, 08:54 PM

Nah i don't break cranks since i don't even pedal out of saddle, my friends did it. I think the two piece crank are epoxy bonded based on forum i heard. I just break my shifter as shown in video below. Foldies seems to be expensive too. Why not save the money first.. i think next coming two years or three new Shimano line up will appear soon with new tech...micro splined casette hub and lighter disc brakes. Meanwhile you still can buy 10s gears, remember Shimano Tiagra still on 10s and some MTB 10s casette are still around too which is compatible with older Ultegra shifting ratio. My top tier Mountain bike components still using 16year old SHIMANO XTR 9s speed still have component available online such as at bicyclebuysell.com and sometime i'll just order from UK or US which took 7 days arrival to Malaysia. Older components have more solid beefy build, butter smooth shifting and high QC quality than modern plastic look like groupsets. Btw last few months i found a bargain price SHIMANO XTR 9spd titanium casette for my MTB bike for just rm$150, original price was rm$900. Very lucky!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mCwvDtRw8U


This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jun 2 2021, 09:36 PM

I used to have Conti GP5000; very fast tire with lower resistance but very harsh at high pressure. Excellent for racing.

Now i use Pirelli P-Zero for commuting to work; not as fast as GP5000 but still faster than than normal Conti Grand Prix or peformanced VITTORIA tires. The reason i uze P-Zero because its very comfy pillowish feeling on 100psi air like riding on smooth road and very grippy during cornering even on sandy patch. No road buzz. Feels more confident handling my bike with this tire in slippery traffic at high speed especially in heavy rain or green mossy patch of roads.

Both almost same priced but if you wanted to win a race go for GP5000 but if you want comfort with grip and performance in wet condition go for P-ZERO. Have not use Good Year F1 yet so no comment on that.







This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jan 31 2022, 09:35 PM

Both GP5000 and P-Zero worn out quite fast. I've change a pair once a year because thinning of rubber and the lining already show some cracks since i ride a lot under the sun 4x time a week in a year.

I can't say much about Schwalbe on road bike tires but i have an experience using it on Mountain bike. They are very grippy tire but the worn out twice faster than the other two as long it carry that 'race' or 'racing' labels. However they also made the toughest puncture resistance road bike tire the 'Schwalbe Marathon' popular among daily commuter but slow and heavy.

But in malaysia market the best tire for well balance both comfort, performance and puncture resistance is Pirellli P-ZERO Velo 4S. A bit heavy than normal P-Zero but beefy...good for rear tire setup.
Just stay away from MAXXIS brand, my 15 years of puncture, skids and crash on this tire....but they are cheap.


Here's my summary experience about puncture during my commute to work on road bike (700x 25c):
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CONTI GP5000 = 1x puncture in 1 month (Glass, thorn and sharp metal puncture)
PIRELLI P-ZERO VELO = 1 puncture in 3 months (only sharp metal puncture)
MAXXIS RE-FUSE and other models = 5x puncture in 1 month (Snake bite rim, glass, thorn and sharp metal puncture)
VITTORIA RUBINO = 2x puncture in 1 month (Glass, thorn and sharp metal puncture)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Note: Here's my Schwalbe tubeless ADDIX tire with steel nail stabbed inside keep riding like this for 3 weeks.



This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Feb 2 2022, 12:49 PM

I'm a mountain biker too, i only puncture once from big nails on my road bike after 7,000km, the sealant cannot seal bigger holes. I'm not using tubeless tire but i insert Stan liquid sealant in my inner tube through presta valve core. With sealant liquid inside inner tube it can seal from small torn, glass and minor road debris puncture.

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Apr 3 2022, 03:19 PM

I used Samsung Galaxy Watch 4, works great monitoring my HR when cycling. Lots of safety option too if i get knocked down.

Photo:

Anyone still commute to work on two wheel during hot season? Traffic is quite dense.

Video:
https://twitter.com/SupermotoXL/status/1526...cq0w1KW2StMOXKw

I take bath at home first so less smelly, once in office just do some water splash on body above basin + towel + deodorant.

Anyone have daily problem with unleashed dog during rides? I named him Eddie

Gliding through Friday traffic riding back from office.