Aunty Lenny's over at Endah Parade. Cant remember if its 2nd or 3rd floor though, but look near the food court, opposite a comic shop

is there a difference between the 2? I just had a look at the internal frame of the SF normal and the SF FBM, and both looks to be the same color to me ler...

I always use the metallics as a secondary coat. So I tend to base coat using black, before spraying on the silver or gold, although when it comes to gold, I prefer to base coat using brown rather than black.

Hmm.. did some testing on one of my old MGs that I now use for experiments. Basically I base coated with brown, did some shading with black, and some highlighting with yellow, then only apply the gold. A rather thin coat of gold that is, mainly just for the metallic look to it. Not too bad, but wanna try again, 'cause the texture of the gold mix isnt that good.

Will post some pics after I've stripped the paint and respray again after that...

Normally its spray first, then do the lining. Unless your gold coating is extremely thin, so that it wont obscure the lines that you've already drawn. If you're using a spray can, then spray first then do lining, as u cannot control the amount of paint or spracy velocity with that, as compared to a dual action AB.

This post has been edited by fyire: Apr 30 2007, 12:30 AM

Well, I would recommend if I could But to be honest, I can't really say. The only gold color that I've got with me is a very old bottle of Humbrol acrylic gold, which has got a pretty weak pigment. So I can't really recommend that anyways.

But since I got it, I make use of it anyways lar.. That's where it gets interesting, experimenting at how to get around the problems that u have with various different methods and so on.

well, its not as bad as u think it is actually. I use alcohol to thin down my paints for airbrushing, and alcohol tends to burn hoter than zippo lighter fluid

say... enamel paints right? how easy is it to manage with an airbrush? not just the brushing bits, but when it comes to cleaning the AB after that?

ah ok.. thought u AB enamels also. most of what i've seen before on the linings bit tends to use enamels for the painting, then acrylics for the lining, as its easier to rub off acrylic off enamel without removing the enamel. First time i've heard of enamels on acrylic though.. does the lighter fluid strip acrylic?

Hmm.. so far the best theoritical combination for lining is a combination of different types of paint.

Like for example, enamel as the base coat, with acrylic for the lining, where u can use something that can wipe off the acrylic, but leave the enamel intact.

That's why I was asking if those fluids can remove enamel or not...

Hmm.. tried experimenting with water based poster color on acrylic before, as you can wipe off the poster color with just color. Pretty good results, but dont work out too well in the end when I tried to brush (hand brush, as I dun have an AB yet at that time) on the vanish (acrylic) on top of it after that, as the water content will get the lining to start running.

Havent' tried with ABing the varnish on instead yet though, that should be something interesting to try.

humbrol paints damn rare these days ler.. I used to use them a lot when they still had the 30ml bottles for their acrylics, but those stopped production already. now they only produce the miserable 12ml bottles, which i dun find to be as good as the older stuff.

well, if u're to look at most of the nicely done up gunpla, u'll find that the surface is actually a matt surface, and not at all shiny. So, u should be looking for either a matt or flat top coat.

Furthermore, the bare plastic itself dun look very good as it is, and when u spray on a gloss coat onto that, it'll make it look even worse.

This post has been edited by fyire: May 3 2007, 11:32 PM

I've been using the Humbrol Matt Varnish all this time. Pretty good, but need to be sprayed on. When brushed, it'll be slightly gloss. U can still find those at Miniature Hobby over at Section 14.

Mr Hobby from TM (BTS) also has got the Flat topcoat, although I prefer to use the Humbrol ones, as I tend to get the unwanted frosting effect at times.

This post has been edited by fyire: May 4 2007, 08:55 PM

I dont get it lar. what risk is there anyways? If u know what u're looking for, then go in, pick up the box, pay, walk out with it. Don't even need to say a word, or interact much to get any form of rude manners at all.

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Added on May 5, 2007, 11:34 amspeaking of topcoats, anybody encountered the frosting effect before when using those spray on types? never really gotten to the bottom of what actually causes it.

This post has been edited by fyire: May 5 2007, 11:34 AM

Nip marks? I'm assuming cuts and scratches? If so, then it'll depends a lot on how serious it is. If its just something that can be sanded away, then probably yes, but keep in mind that I've not used those markers b4, so I got no idea how well the paint can flow off them. If its something more serious then puttying (or that magic Mr Surfacer solution) will be needed. Still possible I guess, but it'll be a larger area that needs to be covered up then.

With a size 000 brush of course

I don't find those to be a problem, as I'm too used to painting those 25mm figurines from Warhammer 40K and Fantasy. Actually check out the painting guides for those, might help to do those pilots.

http://members.aol.com/drdresch/hints3.htm

hmm.. dont seem too bad actually, just takes time to do, so patience is pretty important. only troublesome bits will be the tiny MS figures there.

Well, it dwarfs everything I got with the exception of maybe the GP-02 and the Kampfer. The Nu is as tall as it, but far less bulky

Say.. the oil paints right? Enamel? or different?

How's it like to handle compared to acrylics, for hand brushing and for airbrushing? And for airbrushing, how difficult is it to clean the AB after?

Kinda tempted to try out oil paints. What sorts do u usually use, and how much do they cost?

Well, for one thing, I gotta say that Tamiya is indeed the crappiest of the acrylic paints Pity though, I really miss the older Humbrol bottles, which r out of production now. I tend to use Citadel Acrylics from Gamesworkshop these days for acrylics. Pretty good, and the paint's rather thick too. Thin it down with water and alcohol, and the small bottle can last quite a while.