QUOTE(littlefire @ Jun 13 2023, 05:32 PM)
I believe a lot of people confuse grip as braking performance.
grip mostly are related to traction, both dry & wet grip should not fair much as you can still drive in both condition even for CR1 or Primacy 4.
The only wide difference is with braking performance, usually premium tires like Primacy will get better results in this category.
It is all grip, stop causing more confusion. grip mostly are related to traction, both dry & wet grip should not fair much as you can still drive in both condition even for CR1 or Primacy 4.
The only wide difference is with braking performance, usually premium tires like Primacy will get better results in this category.
If want to be precise, you may use lateral grip during cornering and longitudinal grip during braking/acceleration.
Claiming lateral grip should not fair much among different tyres class over different dry/wet is not true and irresponsible. Want to see someone with CR1 follow same speed as PS4 throw into a corner? Dangerous. Or try corner at same speed in wet vs dry? Dangerous.
There are few tyres with exceptional small margin difference in wet vs dry cornering limit, those are outstanding, not everyone have those tyres.
Read this.
https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/lateral-and...-load-transfer/
Budget and premium types differ greatly in grip in all conditions, not just braking performance. Even different classes of same brand can be totally different.
It is all down to how tyres handle load transfer. Also in a corner, contact patch twist slightly, upcoming contact patch land at slightly different position vs contact patch leaving the ground. This is what give us slip angle, also car without power steering feels lighter when car moves, even it is just rolling a tiny bit.
In a simple rubber at static position, totally grip is pressure applied multiplied by static coefficient of friction.
But in real world driving, it is not static. Tyres is in constant tiny slip all the time, and the rubber grip has diminishing return with increasing load.
This is where good tyres differentiate themselves. They let the driver feels the available grip transition gradually.
Some budget tyres are just snap and car just gone from stable to slide in split second. Low rolling resistance tyres from premium brand, same trouble.
Botak cheap tyres also still can drive in wet and dry if I'm turtle hogging the main road. We can have 100% straight A's in example if we set the A threshold at 5/100.
CR1, CC7, XM2 etc totally not same as touring tyres Primacy4, Prime3, MC6. Then PS4, PS5, PC6, F1 Sport, PZ4 another level. Then SC7, PS4S, PZ4C, Potenza Sport, F1A6 yet another level, best tyres we can buy for daily commute. Next level Cup2, Nankang AR1, RE-71R onwards are semi slick already, I never driven the semi slick group, can't comment.
Then braking performance also different even for 2 tyres hav8ng exactly same braking distance on a same car. What you can read online is the full force braking distance. Maximum load transfer to front wheel. High force pressing on front tyres, and lifting rear tyres. In every day driving comfort (and precise control in spirited driving), we not doing that all the time. We want a linear grip over various load conditions.
This post has been edited by constant_weight: Jun 17 2023, 08:57 AM
Jun 17 2023, 08:17 AM

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