My car is Proton Preve and I have Pioneer AVH-Z5050BT HU installed. Speakers setup is front Adams Digital EMC 650 6.5" mid bass speakers, Adams Digital RUT-28 tweeters, rear stock speaker and Pioneer TS-WX110A underseat active subwoofer. No amp and DSP though, all drove by the Pioneer HU.

I can setup HPF/LPF crossover on the HU. But the TS-WX110A specs mentions the subwoofer has variable LPF built-in (50-125Hz, -12dB/oct) and comes with a remote where I could adjust gain and crossover frequency.
My current setting:
In the HU crossover setting - Subwoofer LPF on (50Hz, -24dB/oct) | Front HPF on (100Hz, -24dB/oct) | Rear HPF on (100Hz, -24dB/oct); I turn the frequency knob on the subwoofer remote to 50Hz
with this setting it sounds nice to me but sometimes the subwoofer will suddenly get cut off and the sound will resume after a few seconds. This happens normally when I am stuck in traffic jam where the car moves slowly.

The wiring is good and voltage are normal when I have the accessories shop foreman checked. He did find my Hitachi NS70L battery not in good health (engine off voltage <12.4V,but still can start engine) so I change to a Amaron Hi-Life 85D23L but the problem still persist.

But when I turn off the LPF and leave the HPF on on the HU, and rely on the subwoofer built-in LPF to work by itself then I don't have this problem and the bass becomes punchy, too much for my taste.
Are the crossover even working as it should when I turn off the LPF on the HU and rely on the subwoofer built-in LPF?

how do u get power for your sub? did u get directly from battery terminal + fuse?

can u try set to 80hz from ur HU and see if problem still exist.

small sob and not so powerful amp to churn out 50hz is quite a hard work

The sub is directly powered by battery terminal.
So meaning that if I set 50Hz at HU its power is not enough to push. But when I turn off the HU LPF and use the sub built-in LPF it is pushed by bettery so enough power.
Now in office, later I'll try to set the LPF at higher frequency to see.

This post has been edited by TitaniumZ: Oct 8 2019, 03:00 PM

Subwoofer LP @ 50hz & Front HP @ 100hz.. With driver play 51hz - 99hz? My 2 cents advice..
Front - Off HU XOver coz pwr up through passive xover.
Rear - HP play around 90hz-120hz 12db slope (depend how low speaker can play.
Sub - Off HU Xover & use built one, set 90hz 12db slope (Deep + Hard Bass) @ dumm dumm type or 120hz 12 db slope (Deep + Soft Bass) @ damm damm type

Cool. I'll try to play around with HU crossover off.
By the way, I'm using the stock rear speakers as filler only, will it be better to cross at 200Hz -12dB/oct so it doesn't go into deep bass (thus not disturbing the sound stage)?

This post has been edited by TitaniumZ: Oct 9 2019, 08:27 AM

Yes you can..

why not try to disconnect your rear speakers, use ur front n sub woofer sufficient already.

I hope I understood the setting right. You have LPF on both HU and on subwoofer, right? Since you already set the Subwoofer LPF on HU, why need to set it again on the subwoofer. It means that you put low pass filter (LPF) twice on the frequencies below 50Hz, thus dropping the sound volume more. Remember that every 3dB drop, halves the amplifier power.

Therefore, I would say that when you turn on the LPF filter on the sub-woofer, you need to increase the power to get to same sound volume you preferred. This somehow drive the amp to limit and trigger the shut-down protection to prevent damage to power transistor over heat. Once the heat dropped, the amplifier is fired on again. This is what I think happened.

I couldn't turn off the built-in LPF on the subwoofer (the remote only has Gain knob, Frequency knob, and the Phase button), so it seems that my only option is to turn off LPF on the HU.
I've follow the suggestion and turn off the HU LPF. The bass is now clearer but a bit boomy, I'll try to play around the frequency to find my sweet spot. Beside, now I can clearly pinpoint that the cut off will happen when I step on brake pedal. The subwoofer will sound normal but 80% of the time when I brake it will get cut off. If I step on the accelerator the subwoofer will resume almost immediately but if I don't press the pedal and let the car slides by itself (like normally do it during traffic jam) 90% of the time the subwoofer will not resume until I press the pedal again. If I fully brake my car or stop my car then there will be no problem.

I've ruled out alternator problem because I don't have light dimming problem which is a common sign of bad alternator. I google online for similar case and found it is mostly due to bad wiring or grounding issue. I think I should go back to the acc shop to have them checking the wiring again.

They are still handy when watching DVD or video (my HU can playback DVD and video, although small 7" screen ) so I just leave them there.

You can play with equalizer to flatten the frequency response or to you liking.

First time I heard this kind of problem, cutting off on braking. Seems to me like the sub is cutting off on low amplifier headroom power. I guess the feature to prevent voltage drop in car electrical system. Possible cause that I can think of:

1) Alternator is not providing enough power, but I think less likely with modern alternator. It is either work or dead .
2) The wire to sub is not thick enough to provide enough current to the sub-woofer or the ground contact has high resistance. When tie the ground to the body, the body paint insulate the contact and contact probably just through screw threads. Not good enough I guess.

up to ur preference bro, thats only mho

wellsaid, mostly wiring problem.

additional things to check:-

1) power supply for amps source from where?
2) amp not enuf power to power your subwoofer, do share ur amp and subwoofer's specs

The wire used to connect the subwoofer comes together with the original box so I doubt Pioneer is giving underspec wire. I now suspect it's either connection problem or not properly grounded.

I don't have an amp installed and the subwoofer is directly tap to the battery terminal.

My subwoofer specs:
Maximum input power: 150W.
Nominal input power: 50W.
Frequency response: 40 - 200 Hz.
Sensitivity (1W/1m): 101 dB.
Woofer size: 21 x 13 cm.
Woofer material: Aluminium cone woofer.
Voice coil type: Heat-resistant 4-layer dual voice coil.
Built-in variable LPF (50-125 Hz, -12dB/oct): Yes.

So the source ur subwoofer are direct tap from battery terminal and i believe your install did add an additional fuse for it.

So most probably your grounding, re route your grounding point to a better one, my installer scratch off paint, bolt, solder and treated before paint back that area.

hope this help and all the best

From what I research online and all the good advice here, there are three possibilities:
1. Bad wiring
2. Bad grounding
3. Bad alternator

I sure hope is either wiring or grounding, else a new alternator is gonna cost me a bomb...

Tomorrow will go to the acc shop to check wiring/grounding, wish me luck!!!

all the best

I went to the acc shop to check, and it was wiring problem after all!
They spent almost two hours to diagnose and re-wire back the subwoofer. The problem is fixed and finally I can enjoy uninterrupted bass to my music.

This post has been edited by TitaniumZ: Oct 12 2019, 02:48 PM

good to hear that.... enjoy your music...

Currently I've settled for this setting:
Time Alignment on, listening position 'Front Right'
Front - HU HPF on, xover at 80Hz, -12dB/oct
Rear - HU HPF on, xover at 125Hz, -12dB/Oct
Subwoofer - HU LPF off, using built-in passive xover at ~80Hz (analog turning knob ), -12dB/oct
Equalizer set to flat, all audio enhancement effect like bass boost, auto leveling, etc. are off
90% of my music sound nice with this setting.

Just one problem, the FM radio streaming quality is pretty low so whenever I switch to FM radio my ears suffer.
I wonder if there's any method to improve FM radio audio quality?

Sound volume or sound quality?

Looks like you are looking to normalize sound from tuner and other sources like phone, etc. While in Android or Apple mode, you can adjust the volume level so that it is normalize to volume from tuner, thus when switching sources, the sound volume stays the same.

Not sure about the Automatic Level Control in the unit if it is set to Mode1 or Mode2 it will adjust the volume lever or changes the sound compression level in your HU. Have you tried that?