FT: Luxury goods
Diesel jeans founder aims to build Italian rival to compete with LVMH and Kering
Renzo Rosso wants to create a luxury conglomerate in a country where many fashion businesses are still small and family-owned
by Silvia Sciorilli Borrelli in Milan (YESTERDAY)
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The founder of jeans label Diesel and owner of fashion brands Jil Sander and Marni has said he wants to build an Italian luxury conglomerate to compete with French groups such as Kering and LVMH.
Renzo Rosso, chair of holding company Only The Brave, founded Diesel in 1978 aged 23, and went on to build a fashion business that employs 6,000 staff around the world at seven brands.
“Italy doesn’t have a domestic luxury conglomerate like the French ones,” he told the Financial Times in an interview. “My plan is to create one.”
OTB has plans for a stock market listing and Rosso is in the process of hiring bankers to advise him. “Of course our [market capitalisation] will be different from the big French groups but my ambition is to show that Italian brands can come together and strengthen each other.”
The European luxury industry has been caught up in some of the effects of sanctions against Russia after its invasion of Ukraine. In March, the EU barred exports of goods worth more than €300 to Russia, in effect ending luxury fashion trade.
But while the likes of Russian president Vladimir Putin are known to be fans of Italian luxury brands, Russia is not a primary destination for the industry.
It is only Italy’s 14th largest global trade partner and according to Italy’s national fashion chamber, the country’s luxury goods exports to Russia amounted to €1.4bn a year before the war.
“The lockdown in some parts of China has been a much greater concern for me compared to the war in Ukraine in terms of impact on our business,” said Rosso. Russia and Ukraine account for about 2 per cent of OTB’s annual revenues — which grew to €1.53bn in 2021, compared with €1.3bn the previous year. It has no stores in either country.
Asia, on the other hand, is a key market for the group. It opened a branch in South Korea last year and Japan alone makes up 25 per cent of its total revenues.
Rosso said one-third of the group’s investments over the next three years would be focused on expanding in China. OTB currently has 80 stores in the country, where it employs almost 1,000 people. It is aiming to double the number of both stores and staff there by 2024.
Rosso is a council member at the national fashion chamber. He said that he and other senior figures — including Patrizio Bertelli of Prada, Remo Ruffini of Moncler, Gildo Zegna and Angela Missoni — were working to modernise the industry and that it would eventually evolve from its traditional family-owned model.
So far, it has been the big French conglomerates, like Kering and LVMH, that have taken opportunities to buy major Italian brands like Gucci, Bulgari and Bottega Veneta.
Rosso is one of the few people on the Italian fashion scene to have pursued a similar path, acquiring Maison Margiela and Marni before buying Jil Sander and emerging brand Amiri. “We will look at further expanding before the listing,” said Rosso.
“It’s not easy but we are on the lookout for brands that can strengthen our luxury positioning. We will demonstrate to the world that even Italy can have its own luxury conglomerate.”
Rosso’s personal fortune is estimated to be about €2.5bn but he is very attached to his roots and still lives in his north-eastern home town of Bassano del Grappa.
Since the start of the war, he has brought more than 440 Ukrainian refugees to Italy and supported them through the foundation run by his wife Arianna Alessi, local NGOs and donations from citizens and other companies.
“We gave them housing near our headquarters [in the Veneto region] and I have hired about 20 women across the group,” Rosso said. The Italian brand Intimissimi has supplied pyjamas and underwear for them, he said, adding: “We’ve seen an outpouring of generosity from locals and businesses.”
He said that while the sanctions and the war would affect the sector, it was important to take a stand against the invasion of Ukraine.
“The videos of the war these women have shown us from their partners made me understand that what we see on television isn’t even half of the story and it is simply devastating.”
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Hedge funds
Merger arbitrage funds go hunting as corporate deals come under threat
Elon Musk’s agreement to buy Twitter is one of several deals that has thrown up opportunities for specialist funds
by Sujeet Indap and Antoine Gara in New York (3 HOURS AGO)
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Hedge funds aiming to profit from the uncertainty over whether corporate takeovers that have been agreed will ultimately be completed say the US stock market now offers more compelling targets than when the eruption of the coronavirus pandemic threatened to torpedo every deal.
So-called merger arbitrage funds typically place bets in the period between a deal being struck and when it is due to complete, a high-stakes strategy that relies for its success on correctly predicting whether a transaction will happen or not against an often volatile backdrop.
The combination of a slowing economy, increased regulatory scrutiny and the challenge of executing highly leveraged transactions in skittish debt markets is forging opportunities for such specialist Wall Street funds.
“From a risk/reward perspective, it’s a more attractive environment since there are real strategic rationales you can underwrite as an arb,” said one executive at a merger arb fund.
The question of whether Elon Musk will follow through on his $44bn agreement to buy Twitter has proved the most captivating. Late last week, Musk notified Twitter that he was terminating the deal, accusing the social media platform of misleading him over its number of fake accounts.
Even before Musk formally reneged on the deal, investors were sceptical the billionaire would complete the transaction, with Twitter shares trading roughly a third below the $54.20 a share he had offered. The stock was down almost 7 per cent at $34.35 in pre-market trading on Monday.
But with Twitter’s board vowing to pursue legal action to force Musk to complete the deal, some merger arb funds are likely to wager on the outcome of the stand-off.
“To be honest, I think it is an amateurish attempt at a termination,” said Roy Behren, who runs a $5bn merger arb fund for Westchester Capital.
Twitter’s share price still needs to reflect the chance that the deal is renegotiated at a lower price, or that the company secures a damages judgment or termination fee, he added.
The transaction is far from the only one with a spread of more than 10 per cent between where the target’s stock is trading and what the acquirer has agreed to pay. For merger arb funds, a gap of at least 10 per cent is regarded as indicating a significant degree of doubt over whether a deal will close.
While Musk’s intentions have been the key variable in the Twitter deal, it is fear over how US competition regulators will treat Microsoft’s $75bn acquisition of video games group Activision Blizzard that has created uncertainty over whether it will happen — and an opening for merger arb funds.
The spread of 18 per cent reflects concern that antitrust authorities, who are increasingly hostile towards Big Tech, will subject the takeover to a strict review and potentially even block it.
Merger arb funds have also been drawn to the $15bn deal that Intercontinental Exchange, the owner of the New York Stock Exchange, struck in May for mortgage software provider Black Knight.
Some funds reckon that competition regulators could step in, while others point to the possibility that the companies could challenge any opposition from authorities just as AT&T successfully did in 2019 when it defeated the Department of Justice’s bid to block its $80bn purchase of Time Warner.
Acquirers usually have almost no discretion to walk away from signed agreements, making scrutiny from competition authorities the most common impediment to a deal closing.
Once a takeover is agreed, the target’s shares will typically trade at a small discount to the offer price. The gap narrows but is not eliminated until shareholders are paid at the closing, which typically happens three to six months after a deal is first agreed.
As rising interest rates raise the cost for takeovers dependent on debt, two outstanding leveraged buyouts — Apollo’s $7.1bn purchase of car parts maker Tenneco and the $16bn acquisition of television ratings group Nielsen by Elliott and Brookfield — each have had spreads beyond 10 per cent. Tenneco’s discount has, however, narrowed to less than 5 per cent recently as financing for the takeover has started to come together.
Alongside an assessment of the risk that a given deal fails to complete, a spread also reflects the opportunity cost to a merger arb fund of choosing to wager on the outcome of a particular takeover rather than putting money into US government bonds.
Merger arb funds typically aim for annual returns in the mid to high-single digits, though their lack of correlation with broader equity markets heightens their appeal for some investors.
Arguably the most complex but still potentially rewarding case for merger arb funds is the fate of US budget carrier Spirit Airlines. Since signing a stock-and-cash merger with arch rival Frontier in February, JetBlue has made an all-cash offer for Spirit.
With a risk that competition authorities could thwart both potential deals, Spirit has twice postponed a shareholder vote on the Frontier transaction, a delay that keeps JetBlue’s hopes alive. The two competing transactions — alongside the potential intervention from regulators — offers an attractive backdrop for funds prepared to wager on the eventual outcome.
The number of variables in play is a sharp contrast to the onset of the pandemic in March 2020, when a plunge across equity markets at one point appeared to derail every pending takeover.
“You were worried if Tiffany stores were ever going to open up again,” said the executive who works at a merger arb fund, referring to the uncertainty over whether the $16bn deal that French luxury group LVMH had agreed before the pandemic for the US jewellery chain would ever happen.
The rapid intervention by the Federal Reserve in financial markets meant most deals ended up closing at or near their original terms.
Despite the drama of LVMH’s 2020 pursuit of Tiffany, Musk’s approach to Twitter has made it even more intriguing for merger arb funds. Legal experts have said that the agreement to buy Twitter is watertight, but Musk’s stubbornness and financial resources raise the prospect of a messy legal battle.
“Twitter should continue to trade well above the standalone value of the company,” said Behren of Westchester Capital. “The company has the better argument and there is validity to the merger agreement that should be enforced.”
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Financial services
Wealth management booms as the rich get richer but markets get choppy
Industry aims to attract rising tide of younger DIY customers coming into inheritances but who need assistance
by Madison Darbyshire in New York (10 HOURS AGO)
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Asset managers and brokerages are rushing into wealth management as “the rich get richer” and a rising tide of young do-it-yourself investors come into inheritances, according to a new report.
Growth of wealth management is set to outpace that of asset management by an average of 2 per cent every year until 2030, as DIY investors seek assistance in turbulent markets, according to research by Bain and Company, a consulting group.
The move into wealth management is a marked shift for traditional asset managers. The industry historically relied on self-directed brokerages such as Charles Schwab, Fidelity and Hargreaves Lansdown, or independent wealth managers to steer investors towards their products.
The aim is to attract younger customers coming into new wealth, and keep them as their needs grow more complex.
DIY investors joined markets in record numbers over the past few years. Now, “we’re betting that those self-directed investors will seek advice”, said Stephen Bird, the chief executive of old school asset manager Abrdn.
At the end of 2021, Abrdn bought the UK’s second-largest DIY investment firm, Interactive Investor**, to grab a younger, more tech-savvy customer base.
“When the next generation inherits money from their parents, they typically don’t stay with their parents’ financial adviser,” Bird said.
The wealth management industry, which combines asset management with financial planning and advice, is expected to swell 67 per cent from $137tn under management in 2021 to almost $230tn globally by 2030, according to Bain. Asset management, which is more investment focused and already a saturated market, is expected to grow by less than 40 per cent from $109tn to $152tn under management over the same period.
“If you have a wealth management capability you have a much more valuable business,” said John Waldron, the chief operating officer of Goldman Sachs, of the future growth in the sector. Younger customers are “incredibly attractive to us”, Waldron said.
Self-directed investors face a down market, many for the first time. “The rougher things get the more people will need wealth management,” said Markus Habbel, a partner at Bain who worked on the report.
Much of the growth in demand for wealth management is because of rising inequality and highly concentrated wealth, Bain found. Globally, the investable assets of wealthy individuals is expected to double in almost every part of the world by 2030.
“The rich are getting richer, that’s for sure,” Habbel said.
Across the industry, wealth management services are picking up steam. In June, Charles Schwab, one of the largest US retail asset managers, renamed its 20-year-old private client advisory the “Schwab Wealth Advisory” to widen the appeal of its wealth management offering to a broader client base. The average customer enrolled in the programme has $2mn in investable assets.
“We’d like them to take advantage of all the services we offer and be clients for life,” said Bryan Olson, the head of Schwab’s wealth advisory business.
“Hopefully the next generation will be clients too, and when that wealth transfer takes place we will already be engaged and helping them.”
Many, such as Abrdn, are building out their offerings through acquisition.
In March, Royal Bank of Canada announced plans to buy the UK’s largest wealth manager, Brewin Dolphin, for £1.6bn to become a dominant player in the UK wealth market almost a year after JPMorgan bought online wealth management platform Nutmeg for $1bn.
Goldman’s Waldron said the group was actively looking for businesses that expanded its wealth management business’ digital capabilities.
Habbel, of Bain, said: “We expect a lot of M&A.”
**This article has been amended to correct the name of the company purchased by Abrdn to Interactive Investor -------------------------------
Aircraft manufacturing
Airbus raises outlook for global jet demand
Company revises up delivery estimate for all manufacturers but lowers passenger number forecast
by Sylvia Pfeifer (2 HOURS AGO)
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Airbus expects airlines to order more aircraft than previously forecast over the next 20 years to replace less fuel-efficient planes, but said passenger numbers would not grow as fast as previously thought.
In its
20-year outlook published on Monday the European aerospace group raised its forecast for global deliveries of jets by all manufacturers to 39,490 from 39,020.
Roughly 80 per cent of the deliveries are expected to be for single-aisle aircraft, which typically serve short and medium-haul destinations, while 2,400 planes will be new and converted freighter aircraft.
The upward revision is partly the result of 2021 being taken out of the rolling 20-year forecast period. Last year was exceptionally weak for deliveries as the industry struggled to emerge from the pandemic, which led to the temporary grounding of most of the world’s fleet.
Airbus said it expected passenger traffic to grow more slowly than before, by 3.6 per cent per year rather than the 3.9 per cent forecast in November, as higher energy costs and the cost of carbon start to hit the sector.
“As energy prices become more expensive, whether we are talking about crude oil prices or carbon dioxide pricing or alternative fuels, there is a strong correlation between what is good for the environment and the fact that purely for operating costs, airlines are very, very motivated to require the latest, most efficient and lowest-emission aircraft,” said Bob Lange, head of business analysis and market forecast at Airbus.
Just 20 per cent of all aircraft currently in service are in the latest generation of fuel-efficient planes, such as Airbus’ best-selling A320neo family of narrow-body jets and Boeing’s rival, the 737 Max. However, this is up from 13 per cent in 2019.
The company still expects air traffic to recover to pre-pandemic levels some time between 2023 and 2025, amid ongoing pressure from soaring inflation as well as the risk of further outbreaks of variants of Covid-19.
Orders from Asia, which has driven demand for planes in recent years, are expected to be slightly lower than the previous Airbus forecast. China, however, still remains poised to overtake the US as the world’s busiest aviation market in the coming years.
The company’s assumptions include global economic growth of 2.6 per cent a year, and passenger and freight traffic growth of 3.6 per cent and 3.2 per cent a year respectively.
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Climate Capital: Oil & Gas industry
Shell takes to TikTok as oil groups try to boost credentials during energy crisis
Social media ad spending jumps as industry invokes national security concerns
by Aime Williams in Washington and Camilla Hodgson in London (9 HOURS AGO)
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Shell is recruiting a manager for its TikTok channel to influence a generation that uses the social media platform known for short videos, as oil and gas companies pump money into advertising campaigns to improve their public image during the energy crisis.
The
social media push comes as US and British companies take advantage of supply shortages due to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and attempt to persuade the public their products are a matter of national security.
Companies including BP in the UK, Chevron in the US, as well as the American Petroleum Institute, a trade body representing more than 600 members in the oil and gas industry, have launched campaigns pushing an expansion of domestic capacity as a solution to the crisis.
But the public relations drive also comes in the context of pledges by governments around the world to phase out polluting fossil fuels, and a new focus among regulators on both sides of the Atlantic over how companies market their environmental credentials.
In the UK, BP spent more on Facebook ads marked as being about “political or social issues” than any other organisation in the 30 days to July 5.
According to Facebook-owner Meta’s spending tracker, the oil group spent more than £220,000 in the week to July 5, six times more than the second top spender, the International Rescue Committee.
The BP ads launched since the start of the war in Ukraine have featured slogans such as “We’re backing Britain” and “Home grown energy”. Others promote “North Sea oil and gas”, and the UK’s “plan to boost long-term energy security”.
Who Targets Me, a British organisation that monitors political advertising on social media, noted that before Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, BP’s ads had focused on green energy.
But BP said its ad campaign was aimed at highlighting its future plans. “Ultimately, our plans for homegrown energy in the UK are diverse and include oil and gas, wind, hydrogen and EV charging — and we see our long-term investments reflecting that.”
In the US, Chevron’s ads on Facebook said it was increasing drilling in the Permian basin by more than 15 per cent, “as part of a larger effort to help offset rising energy demands and lower carbon emissions”. In similar ads on Google, Chevron said it was meeting demand for “reliable” energy.
“It’s important for our stakeholders to be aware of the investments and progress being made to provide reliable energy that is needed in their lives. Paid social media allows us to effectively reach these stakeholders,” a Chevron spokesperson said.
InfluenceMap, a think-tank that tracks lobbying, reported an increase in ads by oil and gas companies that promoted the expansion of US fossil fuel production as part of the solution to the energy price shocks.
The API campaign on Facebook has promoted “American-made energy” and “American natural gas and oil”. The trade body has consistently resisted the Biden administration’s push to shift to renewable energy.
Between January 26, when the API first specifically referenced the Ukraine crisis, and April 1, the group created and ran 761 ads through its Energy Citizens homepage, InfluenceMap found. The campaign reached 19.6mn people, the group calculated.
By comparison, in the final three months of 2021, the API’s Energy Citizens page created just 67 ads referencing energy or national security or energy independence, which were seen 6mn times, said InfluenceMap.
Kathy Mulvey, accountability director of the Union of Concerned Scientists, said Russia’s war in Ukraine had “certainly” disrupted energy markets. “But it really shouldn’t disrupt the transition we need to make to clean energy, and I think we really see the API seizing on the war here in its lobbying efforts to fight back against the clean energy transition.”
A spokesperson for the API said: “We hope the administration will view US natural gas and oil, which is relied on by families and businesses every day, as a strategic asset that is vital to our national security.”
Shell said it was trying to engage young people by demonstrating its role in the energy transition. It said more than 35 per cent of its spending in 2022 would go towards producing low-carbon energy and non-energy products.
The company’s ad for someone to manage its TikTok channel requires the successful candidate to “catapult Shell [into becoming] one of the best content creators on TikTok”.
“You will start a new chapter that will help energy engaged audience[s] and Gen Z worldwide understand . . . the opportunities of energy transition and the Shell role and ambition in it.”
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ETF Hub: ESG investing
Pressure grows on regulators to scrutinise ESG data providers
Influential member of European Commission advisory board calls for action amid rising criticism of greenwashing
by Josephine Cumbo in Paris (10 HOURS AGO)
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Pressure is growing on regulators to formally scrutinise the data and rating providers who award investments high or low scores on environmental, social and governance (ESG) principles.
An influential member of an advisory board to the European Commission has added his voice to calls for ESG data and ratings providers to be regulated amid growing concerns about greenwashing in the asset management sector.
Pierre Bollon, who serves on the European Economic and Social Committee (EESC) and is a general representative of AFG, the French Asset Management Association, said data providers were playing an increasingly important role in the investment industry and should be subject to the same regulatory scrutiny as other parts of the financial services sector.
“Companies are being asked by investors to produce more and more information on ESG, as this becomes more mainstream, but there is no standardisation of this information,” said Bollon, whose board advises the European Commission on employers’ issues.
“Data providers are now a key part of the financial chain and I do not see why this key part — ratings are important — isn’t under scrutiny somewhere,” he added, pointing out that, in contrast, asset managers, brokers and stock exchanges were all regulated.
Globally, asset managers and owners are under increasing pressure from policymakers and customers to provide information on the ESG impact of their funds and investment holdings as part of a wider net zero carbon emissions push.
Output from data providers is used to construct indices that determine the investment strategy of a wide variety of financial products, including the $10tn exchange traded funds industry.
A recent call for evidence on the burgeoning ESG data market by the European securities regulator found those using the services had a range of concerns over the consistency and transparency of data provided.
Bollon’s comments, at a high level conference of world pension leaders in Paris last week, come as regulators around the world consider tighter controls on the sector to reduce false claims about “green” credentials of funds.
Last month the European Securities and Markets Authority (Esma) said feedback it had received on the ESG data sector showed “an immature but growing market” which, following several years of consolidation, has seen the emergence of a small number of large non-EU headquartered providers.
However, bodies that gave evidence to Esma highlighted “some degree of shortcoming” in their interactions with the rating providers, “most notably on the level of transparency as to the basis for the rating, the timing of feedback or the correction of errors”.
There are currently about 59 ESG rating providers active in the EU including a small number of very large non-EU providers, according to Esma data.
“Esma will continue supporting the European Commission in their assessment of the need for introducing regulatory safeguards for ESG ratings,” said Esma.
The European Commission was contacted for comment.
The UK’s Financial Conduct Authority last month said it saw a “clear rationale” for regulatory oversight of certain ESG data and rating providers.
“We stress that market participants and consumers must be able to trust green and other ESG-labelled financial instruments and products,” said the FCA.
This post has been edited by TOS: Jul 11 2022, 10:04 PM