Hi all,

My contractor is doing my wiring for extended kitchen now. I asked him to add 2 normal sockets & 1 socket for electrical hob at the extended wall, in addition to 1 existing socket there.

Based on what i see, what he did was he extended from the existing socket to the 3 new sockets, incl the socket for electrical hob which i heard ppl saying it shud be 15A instead of the normal 13A.

May i know if this is ok?

Thx in advance.

Definitely not ok for a hob

Hob should have own MCB with min 16A. Wire core at least 2.5mm thick.

Can I check couple of things...
How many sockets share the same MCB? Is it 4 total (1 existing, 2-13A & 1 for hob)?
And how many Amp is your MCB?
What appliances are you planning to plug into those? Are you planning to use them all at the same time?
How many watt ur electrical hob requires?


MCB at DB...
I used a dedicated circuit (MCB) for it.

Suruhanjaya electric guidelines: https://www.st.gov.my/contents/publications...uildings%20.pdf (page 26)
'viii. Electric cookers exceeding 3kW shall have its own circuit connected permanently to a 30A rated circuit breaker or fuse with an isolator switch and cooker control unit incorporated with a 13A socket outlet. Two or more cooker appliances may be installed in the same room within a distance of 2 meters.'

I guess the above is safe practice: Separate 30A MCB.


Plug/ Hardwire
My electric hob is 3200Watt,
Voltage 220-240.
Amp required 3200 divide 220-240Amp= 13.3-14.5amp. It shouldn't hit max, only 80%.
So best to use either:
1. 15Amp socket
2. 20Amp Double Pole Switch + Hardwire
3. 20Amp Double Pole Switch + 15 Amp socket
The 20A DP switch is like the aircon switch.

Initially planned to hardwire it but my electrician suggested to add a 15A socket. Later during installation, my contractor helped me to buy the 15A plug. More convenient...

Nope. Better do a dedicated wiring from db.
Malaysia use ring wiring. If the ring break, the mcb won't trip= fire. Something silly left over from the brits

Personally I would wire new dedicated 4mm2 wiring direct from DB on 20A mcb's .
One set for the hob and another set for the 2 normal 13A sso if inside the kitchen

Reason is because mostly high current heating appliances and motor mixers gets connected there.
The 2.5mm2 wires tend to be overheat especially the connections and is actually sized for low power general appliances.

It will cost more but in compliance to standard ST wiring practice and peace of mind

Hi @glasgowkitchen, let me try answer your questions with what i know.

How many sockets share the same MCB? Is it 4 total (1 existing, 2-13A & 1 for hob)?
Yes correct.

And how many Amp is your MCB?
Not sure, he say enough for all 4 socket but he did say the developer's electrician is not professional, eg at other house in same taman, wire wrong switch to wrong location & some sockets not working. So I not sure if we should have confidence in the 1 MCP the developer's electrician prepared.

What appliances are you planning to plug into those? Are you planning to use them all at the same time?
The 15A is for induction hub in future but currently will use gas hob 1st. The socket at top left of pic is potentially for water filter. The other 2 socket for backup purpose, no confirmed/dedicated appliances for it atm.

How many watt ur electrical hob requires?
Not sure, i roughly see a few websites that shows around 2900-3200Watt.


Based on ur formula on AMP & in case my wiring guy is wrong bout the capacity of the socket for induction hub, I should get an induction hub no mroe than 2900watt is it? (13AMP x 220 voltage)

Sorry cant imagine what you were saying bout what ur electrician done.

Induction hob purchase
Err…Better buy an induction hob of your liking be it 2900-3200Watt. That 13Amp Socket vs 15Amp Socket is not too much of an issue cz it's a DIY thing to change the socket itself. The bigger headache is actually adding a new MCB at the DB, rewiring after considering wire thickness and wire quality.

MCB
Hmmm.... If 4 sockets share one 1 MCB (assuming that the developer provide 20A), it might not be enough if you attempt to connect it to an induction hob (about 3000W) running at max setting plus some other higher powered electrical appliances say a microwave (1000W) and an electric kettle (2200W) simultaneously. But the MCB will trip in that case...

If you are planning to connect just 1 water filter(heater 300W) and 1 induction hob (3000W), theoretically calculation wise it should be enough. However thats just maximum load. Safe wiring is a different issue....

Sounds like you are doubtful on the quality of electrical wiring. In that case, best to get:
A dedicated MCB (straight from DB) 20A 4mm cable for 2 zone induction hob (2800-3200W) or
A dedicated MCB(straight from DB) 32A 4mm cable for 4 zone induction hob (7200W).
Use good quality SIRIM approved cable e.g. megakabel. Since it hasn’t been plastered/ tiled yet… better to make sure it is done properly. If later on there are problems with wiring, will need to hack and redo or do external casing which is not that nice looking.

15A Socket / Hardwire/ 20A Double Pole Switch
Most electric hob do not come with a 15Amp Plug.



Hardwire means connecting the wire direct to the wall backbox. No plug to plug in
15A Socket: Put a 15A Plug (DIY) to connect to the 15Amp socket.



Actually 15Amp Socket will do for this… I wanted a switch on the countertop.

Ohh...
So that explains, why when I did a test this 1 particular newly installed dedicated circuit

1) Bathroom water heater (with built in pump)
2) Washing machine socket

It didnt trip the 20AMP MCB. I'm certain this is a dedicated circuit installed by the electrician during renovation.

What I did was, I ran a 2000W rated kettle at the washing maching socket, turned on the water heater to max temperature (and mine is abit advance, digital control, not the usual "turn knob to adjust power" water heater).

Assuming this : 2000W plus water heater rated max 3800W but was probably only pulling estimated 2500W plus minus at time of testing (even when I turned it only to 3/4 way or 43C, because when I go beyond that, the display will blink, indicating outlet water "Not enough hot" and it wont go any hotter than that. BTW who in the world will bath at 43C and beyond. Maybe Captain Marvel LOL.)

Sorry I dont have a clamp meter. Just doing rough estimation.

Total : 4500W or 18.75Amps.

Didnt trip. Does it have to go beyond 20 Amps to start tripping? I read somewhere that even going near the rated MCB should cause it to trip. Correct me if Im wrong.
Anyway, in real life, I dont run water heater and high powered electrical item at the socket concurrently to prevent overload.
Even only once my wife used the water heater while the washing machine is running.

I only use the washing machine plug for either washing machine, air fryer or sometimes kettle.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Sep 1 2019, 10:01 AM

This is the proper way to do it. You don’t want house to be on fire