I see, then need to pratice alot Hmm plan to get some of them (Gundam Marker) to play play around. SD gundam less colour T-T.

erm, bout marker u can erase it with the Gundam Marker Eraser (dunno correct name or not, i got 1) or any other thingy which i dunno...
bout the real touch marker, i oso got a few, u can even rub it off with ur fingers or eraser...

you can use masking tape to cover the parts.. make it easier to play play with color... just need to add a little time.... its just like you want to airbrush.. need to cover some part... painting also can use same teknik.

Ok i get it, Masking
But how bout after use gundam marker color + lining, is it will easy drop by touching it ???
After modeling i like to play with them just like kids

^ cute
wat u mean by "easy drop"? the parts or wat o_O?

1. I normally cut it out from the sprue, then cut off the remaining carefully using xacto knife. If it's smooth, then just leave it, else just sand it with the finest grit you get. I normally cut out the sand paper and stick it to an ice cream stick.

2. You can either go for primer (which is good to see uneveness) or just soak it in soap water to remove all the demould agent left on the plastic. Try to scrub it using some toothbrush.

3. I've never use primer before as laquer = thinner = dissolves plastic. So Mr. colour mixed with mr. colour thinner = good bond on the plastic parts.

4. I've never do weathering..prefer it to be original colour and clean..heh heh..but will do different tones.

5. Decals can be accurately put on to the kit by cutting it out, and placing it on the kit, then use a pencil, preferable 2B or equivalent and just sketch along the decals.

6. Top coat you can either go for acryllic floor cleaner thinned with mr. colour thinner, or you can get Mr. Colour semi gloss or super gloss for your coat.

I'm using enamel based tamiya colour to do my panel line washing. I've tried oil paste before but it was messy. Anyone tried with tamiya water based colour?

alucard..
wat do u mean by "I've never use primer before as laquer = thinner = dissolves plastic"?

as far as i know, most of the primers meant for gunpla are lacquer-base.

anyway, the decals u mentioned is the dry-transfer rite? jus abit curious , y need to use pencil (u mentioned preferably 2B, is there any significant help?)

and how can u use acrylic floor CLEANER as top coat?
isn't those floor POLISH?

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Added on November 23, 2007, 2:37 pmi assume the 1 u r refering is Future Floor Acrylics?
FFA is not a cleaning agent, it's just a diluted solutions of clear acrylics

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Nov 23 2007, 02:37 PM

cool...but still dun get it ... ... i duno how to read japanese... btw...where to get that marker...and i oso want to knw where to get gundam weathering marker...the one like rusty brown colour and others...

at 1st i oso tot no

at 2nd thought, i oso think no

by 3rd thought, i can almost confirm cannot d

then.. WTH
but it is really fun when u realise in modelling world, nothing is impossible, maybe just too HARD to achieve
at one time, it was a hit when alot of pro modellers (esp those japs) were doing washing and weathering without using airbrush, not even with any paint, just markers
rili want to go that far meh..

even those dry-transfer decals, pro-modellers were saying to me, once u rub it on, cannot use again (one time apply only) but check check it oso can be removed and re-use again

well.. my guess is that the only thing that limit us is ourselve, if u think u can.. even the skies aren't the limit

cheers

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Added on November 23, 2007, 3:07 pmbeg my pardon.. i can't read japanese too
but i think those aren't japanese, the explanation text should be chinese rite? (i can't read chinese either.. poor me )

have u try xl-shop or auntie lenny's shop, they shud carry some markers, though quite limited.

not everytime u must get exactly the same thing of what others have use to achieve a similar effect

with some imaginations and experience, something else could be explored, namely art shop markers (for rendering drawings), i saw steadler/ or forgot the name, also came out large variety of color makers

spent some more time in art store, bookshop, hardware shop, sometimes u'll find useful tools there too:)

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Nov 23 2007, 03:07 PM

u kno any art shops in kl? i heard ther is one in ue3...
whn i go shopping ill surely go to bookstores and hardware areas... and so far i actually came up with something i duno wad it is... with a golden gundam marker... i makes it looks a little scratched..but still gold looks too "new"... so i want to get the weatthering marker...mayb will be better... but usually how u guys weather...lets say... with weathering pastels?(and how the art pastels i heard tat can replace it look like?) sry to ask too much...

But guys, do you think those painting marker is same as gundam marker ?

Me latest completed project. One of the classic fatboys






edit: argh.. just realized that I posted in the wrong thread...

VincC454, can help me move to the right one? Sorry ya? kinda late at night, and got careless...


This post has been edited by fyire: Nov 24 2007, 02:37 AM

hey guys, need some help here, i'm gonna try something a bit crazy here, never done it before though



this is the front body cover for rx78 oyw
see those red lines? i'm planning to "potong" it but i cant just simply potong it, can i?
so is there any advise of how am i gonna get it cut?

thx

I'm have never mod before.. but I think it can be cut safely using art knife... or p-knife... cut slowly...

Laquer = thinner, and all thinner melts plastics in a way or two. I have a newbie friend who even tried out industrial grade thinner on his sacrificial gundam. Works, but the surface it not that unform. If you are using Mr. Colour's thinner which is meant for airbrushing, try to drop a drop or two of Mr. Retarder to reduce 'spider webs' from you airbrush. Or you can mix in a ratio of 60-70% thinner to 40-30% paints (My method).

Yup..I like dry transfer more than wet ones. Wet ones are a real mess. 2B pencil does not do anything. If you use a pencil to sketch along the decal decoration meant to be transfered to the kit, you can actually see the sketches made by your pencil. In another word, you'll know which area of the decals you have yet to fully 'transfer' to the kit.

It is true. It is for floor cleaning. However, there are some modellers out there using this top coat to give a very hard and durable as well as shiny coating. I've never tried it though, coz you need to buy a whole bottle which cost around RM40 or so.

lol, at first i was thinking like heat up the hobby knife, then cut it guess i was wrong

no nid heat the knife one la...
y u wan to cut it 1sT? separate half?
tat's a saw for gundam for u to cut .. u can use design knife but need to be careful..

lol.. heat up iron + plastic = disaster...

last time i also want heat knife then i no have la( duh...) go buy modeller saw...many piece 25rm... af hobby got sell..very easy cut...also got another type of bigger saw which i am using now^^

thanks for the clarifications..

well.. some thinner does melt plastics, coz most of those for industrial use are usu a mix of chemical (organic solvents) instead of single type. we just can't be sure to use the same type everytime we buy a new thinner bottle fr hardware. so my rule of thumb is to always test the thinner on plastics before using

even so, so thinner melts better than others, which can be seen by looking the reaction of the paint + thinner. some paint dissolve but leaving some small small droplets/ coaggulations which is not good.

oh.. for the 2B, yeah.. nothing to do wth the lead, just for safe-tracking how can i miss that point