>>zero: non taken, cos didn't realise initially he's still new.

>>k33vin: i'll let Zero guide u, he's more pro then me

For the camo i've seen how it was done before. Looks easy from outside, but can see it's very difficult actually! As VincC said, it's all in controlling the flow of paint from AB.

Got a friend who does it for his tanks. Damn chunted.

BTW, for compressor rite, which type would u guys recommend, cos i heard like got diff types.

My boss uses one, which can be used whole day without turning off. Really good la. Think it was written 40 hp at the side.
He said AB + Compressor around 800 plus. I think it's abit expensive, but very worth it lo cos the compressor can literally run whole day.

>>zoid: is it? I once heard him mentioned it's used for aquariums wan.
Well ya la don't need whole day lo if it's self use. Any recommendations? Would wanna get myself one once grad.

>>zoid: Ek. i dunno either. But it works fine though.
sparmax? if + AB how much?

Agreed agreed!
Did some asking and found out there's 2 types, with and without air tank. If without air tank needs to off every half an hour or so to let it cool down rite? Gotta wait how long? Anyone with this type of compressor?

Seems like sparmax is really good and worth price eh? ok ok can consider getting one next time
Ya having 2 guns is more convenient la. Otherwise gotta clean gun everytime change color

VincC how much u bought your whole set? compressor + 2 AB

>>Zero: Meaning u the whole kit assembled then u prime it?

>>zero: ooohh... If like tht then really big difference jor.
But even then after prime then how, u spray terus ar? Or u still got dismember (FRESH MEAT!!) your kit?

>>zero1st: Ya tht's what i do too. But knowing which part is exposed and which part is always hidden helps too during AB process

But scribing do u guys use the templates (rulers, special designed rulers) ar? Or just scribe as u like only?

^I don't think u can avoid scratches while u sand your kits though. Because sanding actually grinds away the plastic bits.

Or maybe, u can fold your sand paper such that it'll sand only the 'nips'. maybe then it can prevent

Wow got till 15000 ar? Walau how much it cost then...

^Very very shocking man...... i don't think i'll ever use one..

Wat about paint storage? Most prolly i'll not be using it for at least 2 months now. How to store to ensure the paint won't dry or anything ar?

^if i just store in the original Mr. Color bottles, ok ar?

>>lonetitans: I can shed some lights here
U've gotta find those type of LED, the flat thin type one. Some MGs the head are rather big, so u can easily slip one behind.

U'd need a PCB, or those boards wit lotsa holes, where u then solder the components.

Here're the things u'll need to consider:
1. The power supply u're using. How much of voltage will u be applying?
2. The resistors values. Can get a set value or those adjustable ones

That 2, u can trial and error to get the 'brightness' that u wan. Cos if too bright can see the lights thru back of the head (something u wouldn't wan) and worse might spoil the LED.

U might wanna consider getting a switch as well

>>lonetitans: Few methods here.
1. U use PCB, then u can have LEDs at several other places. Just tht u'll have to extend the wires externally.

2. If use Li batts like LR44, maybe u can somehow stuff the whole circuit inside your kit. Problem is though, how u wanna switch on and off?

>>lonetitans: yeah i guess so. If gunpla like MK-II got big body, maybe can somehow fit inside. Smaller ones like WZC, F91 will be very difficult.

I've got a senior who did the PCB method. Very cool. He use USB power supply.

Aiyo i worry la if we're taking up too much spaces here PM me if u wan anymore details. I'll help wit wat i can

This post has been edited by MyKy44: May 2 2008, 12:43 AM

I just use the Mr Color, Gold, No. 9


I posted some in the WIP section, but for convenience sake
WZC page