please the weathering tips!!! i m going to spray it tmr!!

weathering is always done after u spray the colors on it la....
weathering consist of dry brushing,pastel, etc etc

ah ic... can tell me what is needed to do space weathering effect? i will get ready them asap...

er....... i have not done space effect b4..
but like i said it's up to u, got paint chip, color fade(this one duno how to do), etc etc....
paint chip use dry brush... use other paints type other than acrylic or lacquer... for me, i use enamel paint. get silver, or metalic colors...
slowly dry brush on the edges and such to achieve the paint chips.. good luck

but like they say, RESEARCH more 1st b4 u start... i am not sure how to do space weathering also..

Well get some SD cheap gundam and try it out

perhaps^^ kk thx ya i will do the painting 1st bah... now busy cutting out all the parts and use modelling knife to cut off the cosecant parts^^ lol kinda lot job to be done in 2 days...

okie ... let us discuses abit about space weathering .... since alot of ppl r interested in it and wanna know....
b4 we go in to what kind of weathering need to apply in space .... we need to think what is there in space in the 1st place ... if u guys dunno whats the real space really have then apply those u see in gundam anime ( sure u guy have watch at lease 1 series right ? )

okie now let us basically list out what we know should have :

- all sizes of rocks
- metals
- ice
- heat and frost

next what weathering we should have .... since there is alot of small object around paint chipping and uneven surface cant be avoided .... next heat and frost, for heat part u can add some burn metal weathering on the booster area or some times overall if flying fast and near the atmosphere .... the frost part its bit tricky .... those that watch ironman the movie will know some metal wont frost up and gundam is not build form iron or steel but in some cases bit of frost still builds up on some surface in a minor way la ...

another space weathering which is tricky is rust effect ... but the way rust happens is water and air and in space dosen't have this both .... but this only apply when that ms is not inside a space port and inside a colony ... so this should be consider if u planing to do space weathering ....

well this is all i can think of now atm ... also pardon me for my bad English if it is hard to understand

hope this help guys ...

thx zero1st!! its usefull!!

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Added on May 17, 2008, 7:41 pmmay i know what is the difference between mr. surface 1000 with mr surface 1200?


This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 17 2008, 07:41 PM

Just bear in mind that, unfortunately, i wopuld 80% of weathring or damage effect cannot be done by using airbrush. Mostly, brush and paint, pastel, cutter; other type of extra material like salt, plaster, sand, etc.

so u do not need to wait for tips on weathering before you ab (except one type: which is u need to cut holes or make uneven surface before ab). Most of the effects are done after you ab. So go ahead with your ab first, then only study/research more on weathering.

Dont let weathering stop you from starting to ab. mebbe u can show the after ab result, then some other would have better ideas / suggestion on weathering.

ok ty^^! what about mr surface? wats the diff between 1000 and 1200? whih is better to use?

just the grade.... 1000 is smooth, 1200 is smoother....
500 and 1000 big difference la... 500 is rough, 1000 is smooth... for AB, 1000 and 1200 almost the same

o ic... so can i use 1000 on freedom's outer armor? im using bottle type one with AB... will the result nice?

Basically if ur AB is really fine one (assume 0.5 and above) those 1000 above surfacer will give u smooth surface already!

helo, another noob question here. erm, after i spray my gunpla with tamiya/nippon pylox, if i wanna do washing panel lining, i have to spray a top coat first? tamiya/nippon paint wont mix with the top coat...rite?

after or before topcoat also can do paneling lining...
topcoat wun mix with the paint unless u spray too near

ooh...yeah ah...
coz im thinking ma, since the wash solution got some thinner in it, i scare it will mix/ruin the existing paint job. it wont mix hor?

regarding the top-coat, would like to ask a question too.

Given a scenario which if i spray water-based Mr.Hobby Top coat flat, until half-way only realized it finish, which left my gunpla only apply half of the top coat. Can i use the oil-based type of top coat, or the Mr.Hobby Super clear Flat to replace it ? what's the effect of doing like that ?

i duno wat u mean by wash, is it inking method type? if it's inking type means using enamel alr and tat thinner is another type of thinner which will not mix ur existing paint job. but be warn though, i used zippo fluid and another which almost alike, if apply too long on the existing paint, it will eat the paint awhile but very little

i think better not, since u used water based might as well continue it with water based... if u eat ur rice left half, would like to add but no more rice then u wan add noodles and mix it and eat both?

Haha, good example . Asking this because, i still got left of Flat Top-Coat to use since my last spray, so afraid i spray half-way then no more liao, since everywhere is out of stock now, so thought if there any alternative or not.
Anyway thanks for the advices.

Say, does the Super Clear flat, also got differentiate water based & oil based type ?

u mean flat base.... super clear means oil based d and topcoat is water...
i have read 2 articles bout these 2, ntg different just tat one is water based, one is oil based... tat's all