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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, Q&A about tips and technique here

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rayloke
post May 15 2008, 01:11 PM

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QUOTE(vincent09 @ May 15 2008, 09:24 AM)
Oh ya ya that top coat, is it will cover the scratch after sanding? Because i found out that, it will cover the marker stroke that we drawing. So I think ( or hope biggrin.gif ) will be like that.
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Actually Dengeki Hobby showed a few times already, with photos. Together with cement and top coat, you can almost make the seamline invisible. Use different sand paper, like 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 2000. scratches on the surface also will be very fine, then you use top coat to further cover them up.

Then as 300078 said, do weathering effect to further distract viewers' attention from realising sand scracthes and such. Actually it can be done really nicely, but is not easy job. Imagine you can achieve kits that appeared in magazine evenwithout the use of AB. For benchmark, usually i think the time u use for weathering is around 3 times longer than the time u use to snap fit.
vincent09
post May 15 2008, 01:21 PM

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Dengeki Hobby ..... I can't get this book so I don't know much info inside.

Actually where can get those sandpaper over 1000? TM there got ???
Mostly I see just until 1000 only T-T.


rayloke
post May 15 2008, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE(vincent09 @ May 15 2008, 01:21 PM)
Dengeki Hobby ..... I can't get this book so I don't know much info inside.

Actually where can get those sandpaper over 1000? TM there got ???
Mostly I see just until 1000 only T-T.
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he he cheapo like me use hardware shop type. usually i use 600, 800 (mostly), 1200. 2000 (for gloss finish)

To even soften the sanding effect, you can try wet sand. meaning, add some water on the surface then sand. The water in between sand paper and your model kit serve as a buffer. so scracthes will will finer and less likely to make mistake like pressing too hard. it will take longer but is good effect.
0300078
post May 15 2008, 02:08 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ May 15 2008, 01:11 PM)
Actually Dengeki Hobby showed a few times already, with photos. Together with cement and top coat, you can almost make the seamline invisible.  Use different sand paper, like 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 2000. scratches on the surface also will be very fine,  then you use top coat to further cover them up.

Then as 300078 said, do weathering effect to further distract viewers' attention from realising sand scracthes and such. Actually it can be done really nicely, but is not easy job. Imagine you can achieve kits that appeared in magazine evenwithout the use of AB. For benchmark, usually i think the time u use for weathering is around 3 times longer than the time u use to snap fit.
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yup i did this style before but it really used a lot of time! More than AB!
vincent09
post May 15 2008, 03:07 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ May 15 2008, 01:26 PM)
he he cheapo like me use hardware shop type. usually i use 600, 800 (mostly), 1200.  2000 (for gloss finish)

To even soften the sanding effect, you can try wet sand. meaning, add some water  on the surface then sand. The water in between sand paper and your model kit serve as a buffer. so scracthes will will finer and less likely to make mistake like pressing too hard. it will take longer but is good effect.
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Thank you for the info, then i can try sanding + top coat, but which top coat is suitable to do this kind job? Non gloss ?
0300078
post May 15 2008, 04:05 PM

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Flat top coat!
edwardgsk
post May 15 2008, 04:16 PM

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then when to apply the top coat? parts by parts or after finish fixing only then spray overall?
0300078
post May 15 2008, 04:19 PM

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best is after u snap fit! U dissemble them in to part by part (like torso, hand, leg) just dun dissemble until become back to original!
edwardgsk
post May 15 2008, 04:21 PM

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what about the joints? after whole leg snap fitted then u spray over the joint parts wont stick to the leg meh?
0300078
post May 15 2008, 04:27 PM

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It will not stick to the leg one! No worry! It is just a layer of invisible paint tat protects ur model kits!
edwardgsk
post May 15 2008, 04:29 PM

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wat i worry is after the layer dried, the layer will stick the knee and the leg parts together...
0300078
post May 15 2008, 05:09 PM

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QUOTE(edwardgsk @ May 15 2008, 04:29 PM)
wat i worry is after the layer dried, the layer will stick the knee and the leg parts together...
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From my experience none of this happen before! Becoz u aint stacking 2 parts together u just spray on top of them all! it wont stick one + the flat top coat dries very fast one!
edwardgsk
post May 15 2008, 07:33 PM

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wat bout this kind of the? have to seperate it? or whole leg top coat go over?


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0300078
post May 15 2008, 07:40 PM

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QUOTE(edwardgsk @ May 15 2008, 07:33 PM)
wat bout this kind of the? have to seperate it? or whole leg top coat go over?
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Just spray it over the whole thing! It will be able to cover most of the part tat are expose to the outside (why waste paint on internal frame)
edwardgsk
post May 15 2008, 07:45 PM

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ooo icic but won't there be any unspray parts since it is so complicated?
0300078
post May 15 2008, 07:54 PM

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for this top coat u try to cover up the whole armor part from each direction so it can have perfect coverage! So each part u want to spray one spray it from each direction!
chriswoo
post May 15 2008, 08:39 PM

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well for spaying top coat is fine but don't over spray it you might regret when got froze effect
edwardgsk
post May 15 2008, 10:11 PM

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aiyo then wat bout the self formulated top coat?(pye slate-seal+flat base)


Added on May 15, 2008, 10:16 pmdoes anyone think of the product of crome silver paint coated with clear yellow? will it looks like gold?

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 15 2008, 10:16 PM
vincent09
post May 15 2008, 10:25 PM

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I see, flat top coat, ok thank you for the info.
Look like I have to try for it thumbup.gif thumbup.gif

Never paint or doing nice detailing when modeling, need to hardword for each gundam now biggrin.gif
darklancer
post May 15 2008, 11:26 PM

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user posted image

comments please. thx!

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