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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, Q&A about tips and technique here

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edwardgsk
post May 3 2008, 06:57 PM

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or maybe if order in large quantity will have discount for it... who knows hahaha... i will discuss further with the dealer for better price.


Added on May 4, 2008, 3:08 pmcan some one suggest me a gold paint that is most suitable for MG Strike Freedom's inner skeleton? i wan a shiny yellow gold. post picture for example of the colour paint or work if possible. ty

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 4 2008, 03:08 PM
kurz
post May 6 2008, 11:06 PM

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eyy some of u might remember i bought a set of Mr.Hobby paints which is acrylic and water-soluble...so does that mean i no need use leveling thinner?
use water to level the paint is enough?
pcomet
post May 7 2008, 12:09 AM

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How much of quantity littak for each shipment? So 10% discount from yen??
MyKy44
post May 7 2008, 12:33 AM

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QUOTE(edwardgsk @ May 3 2008, 06:57 PM)
or maybe if order in large quantity will have discount for it... who knows hahaha... i will discuss further with the dealer for better price.


Added on May 4, 2008, 3:08 pmcan some one suggest me a gold paint that is most suitable for MG Strike Freedom's inner skeleton? i wan a shiny yellow gold. post picture for example of the colour paint or work  if possible. ty
*
I just use the Mr Color, Gold, No. 9
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I posted some in the WIP section, but for convenience sake smile.gif
WZC page
zoidx_chung
post May 7 2008, 01:11 AM

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QUOTE(kurz @ May 6 2008, 11:06 PM)
eyy some of u might remember i bought a set of Mr.Hobby paints which is acrylic and water-soluble...so does that mean i no need use leveling thinner?
use water to level the paint is enough?
*
if not mistaken got specific thinner for it
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temptation1314
post May 7 2008, 01:13 AM

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eh, guys... want to ask about sanding leh..
I sand the seam lines until the whole surface become flat and smooth jor...
But the seam lines seem like a bit visible lar.. Later i post up the pics..

I use cement.. wait 1 day then only sand.. sand with 400 de.
chriswoo
post May 7 2008, 01:17 AM

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QUOTE(temptation1314 @ May 7 2008, 01:13 AM)
eh, guys... want to ask about sanding leh..
I sand the seam lines until the whole surface become flat and smooth jor...
But the seam lines seem like a bit visible lar.. Later i post up the pics..

I use cement.. wait 1 day then only sand.. sand with 400 de.
*
if sand already still visible u need to putty liao biggrin.gif but usually if a bit visible went u paint it, it will cover it up liao unless u use metal color or super silver than that was different case. btw went i use cement i no need wait for a day 1 just 2 hours then can already
temptation1314
post May 7 2008, 01:32 AM

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OK, this one consider have seam lines or not... need more sanding or not..

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kurz
post May 7 2008, 01:32 AM

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QUOTE(zoidx_chung @ May 7 2008, 01:11 AM)
if not mistaken got specific thinner for it
*
hoh really..then y it says water soluble de..tipu me mah the box..
zoidx_chung
post May 7 2008, 01:35 AM

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temptation: i'll sand again & apply putty
temptation1314
post May 7 2008, 01:36 AM

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eh... really ar? sweat.gif
Erm.. I sand many time jor wor.. so just put putty and sand?

Btw, the surface on seam lines is darn smooth and flat jor.. doh.gif
z3r0717
post May 7 2008, 08:26 AM

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QUOTE(temptation1314 @ May 7 2008, 01:32 AM)
OK, this one consider have seam lines or not... need more sanding or not..

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
pic too big shakehead.gif
i still can see sumthing...
u still nid to sand it.... afta sanding it smooth, sometimes got a very small tiny line then it's ok... coz afta u prime, the primer will cover it.. smile.gif
0300078
post May 7 2008, 09:08 AM

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The problem with clossing the gap between 2 separate kits right? let me give u some pic:

user posted image
user posted image

I did have an article in my blog talking about it!
http://sotbest.blogspot.com/2007/10/gundam-head-mod.html

rayloke
post May 7 2008, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(kurz @ May 7 2008, 01:32 AM)
hoh really..then y it says water soluble de..tipu me mah the box..
*
Actually u can use water! most people tend to use thinner cause it melts the paint faster and also dry faster. Sometimes i use water to mix acrylic paint too. mr hobby is much easier to dilute than tamiya paint but thinner mix the paint the fastest.

Pro: u will get extremely slow drying time, which sometimes is good, especially for gloss finish. also tends to remind you to do your painting slower(be patient fren). Also can use water to wash, very cheap!

Con: slow drying time, so u cant do anything for quite a long period of time. i usually wait one day plus. Also if u spray too much, or didnt apply putty, or even the paint is too thin, the surface tension will make the the paint form droplets.


Added on May 7, 2008, 11:35 am
QUOTE(temptation1314 @ May 7 2008, 01:36 AM)
eh... really ar? sweat.gif
Erm.. I sand many time jor wor.. so just put putty and sand?

Btw, the surface on seam lines is darn smooth and flat jor.. doh.gif
*
one way to test whether seam line is properly done or not: Close your eyes, use your finger nail lightly scracth thru the surface. If u still can feel and know where the seam line is with your eyes closed, then is not properly done biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by rayloke: May 7 2008, 11:35 AM
eehtsitna
post May 7 2008, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(neo_sigma @ May 2 2008, 10:15 PM)
Does anyone here knows, who do compressor repairing? 

Now my sparmax having a leakage of air at the part where the metal tube connecting to the pressure meter.

I can hear the hissing of air and felt the air after I dip my finger in water then check for air leakage.

Now the meter only goes up pointing to 3 last time was at 6 or something

Could anyone pm me a contact to the repair guy?
*
If its only a leak at the connection you dont have to go to the shop to repair it. Get someone who might have some knowledge with plumbing to get those white tape (commonly used to seal water pipe) and apply it on the area that might have a leak. It should fix the problem.
HooTeRcWy
post May 7 2008, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(neo_sigma @ May 2 2008, 09:15 PM)
Does anyone here knows, who do compressor repairing? 

Now my sparmax having a leakage of air at the part where the metal tube connecting to the pressure meter.

I can hear the hissing of air and felt the air after I dip my finger in water then check for air leakage.

Now the meter only goes up pointing to 3 last time was at 6 or something

Could anyone pm me a contact to the repair guy?
*
get some silicone sealants la....just apply it and wait for 24 hours...save the rest of the silicone for future diorama... biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
temptation1314
post May 7 2008, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ May 7 2008, 11:14 AM)
Actually u can use water! most people tend to use thinner cause it melts the paint faster and also dry faster. Sometimes i use water to mix acrylic paint too. mr hobby is much easier to dilute than tamiya paint but thinner mix the paint the fastest.

Pro: u will get extremely slow drying time, which sometimes is good, especially for gloss finish. also tends to remind you to do your painting slower(be patient fren). Also can use water to wash, very cheap!

Con: slow drying time, so u cant do anything for quite a long period of time. i usually wait one day plus. Also if u spray too much, or didnt apply putty, or even the paint is too thin, the surface tension will make the the paint form droplets.


Added on May 7, 2008, 11:35 am

one way to test whether seam line is properly done or not: Close your eyes, use your finger nail lightly scracth thru the surface. If u still can feel and know where the seam line is with your eyes closed, then is not properly done biggrin.gif
*
doh.gif then mine is consider ok jor lor..

Coz the surface really flat + smooth.. no edges, no "longkang" or bumper aka seam lines...

Nvm, tonight I try prime and spray it...
If after paint the seam lines still there.. then no choice to re-sand again and putty lor..
Well, I hate puttying lol.. doh.gif
rayloke
post May 7 2008, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(temptation1314 @ May 7 2008, 12:07 PM)
doh.gif then mine is consider ok jor lor..

Coz the surface really flat + smooth.. no edges, no "longkang" or bumper aka seam lines...

Nvm, tonight I try prime and spray it...
If after paint the seam lines still there.. then no choice to re-sand again and putty lor..
Well, I hate puttying lol.. doh.gif
*
Yeah sometimes before u prime, u still can see the something like a seamline; but if after priming is not visible, then is ok.

Btw, for small line, many times i dont use putty. very troublesome to dilute everytime, also putty a little hard to sand. Normally i use primer to cover. So much easier to sand.

Buy one bottle of primer (Not the can spray type, bottle type) use toothpick and apply on the plastic.
temptation1314
post May 7 2008, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ May 7 2008, 12:20 PM)
Yeah sometimes before u prime, u still can see the something like a seamline; but if after priming is not visible, then is ok.

Btw, for small line, many times i dont use putty. very troublesome to dilute everytime, also putty a little hard to sand. Normally i use primer to cover. So much easier to sand.

Buy one bottle of primer (Not the can spray type, bottle type) use toothpick and apply on the plastic.
*
huh... u mean prime using toothpick on the seam lines only?

Last time I did my other kits... I sand, then prime using brush.. then only paint with colour..
Well, the seam lines still there lor coz i sand not enough..
z3r0717
post May 7 2008, 12:30 PM

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toothpick small enuff to use the primer(bottle type not spray can) to cover the lines ma... rayloke told me b4, i wanna giv a try.. better than putty lo, nid to wait for it to harden. wink.gif

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