Ok. So sand the thick top coated model while gradually increasing the grit of the sand paper. How many layers of top coat is considered thick? And how many cans of top coat is likely to be needed(not sure about you guys, but I intend to paint and polish each individual piece before assembling, with the exception of the internal skeleton)?

Model in question: MG Strike Freedom(I know most ppl use flat top coat for their gundams, but I want to try and make mine shine ).

Regarding the sandpaper, those types of grit(600,1000,1500,2000) can be found from art shops or from hardware stores? Anyone have a specific recommendation of grits to use on a model?

go multifilla to get it....


www.multifilla.com

it's bcos of the scratches tat sandpaper can do to the part, i dun use it. IMO, the model kit itself oledi smooth smooth leh...want look shiny just apply glossy topcoat

Sand paper has it own purpose! Especially used on uneven parts, nips point and bla bla bla! I would used them to send the whole kit just to cre8 the effect of war!

400... then 1000
I use this both only... as 400 when u use, they'll definitly increase to 1000++ later
You had to be careful not to over-sand ur kit else all run shape...

got couple of questions:

i wanna paint my tf with chrome. what type of painter shud i use and how much it gonna cost?

and how do u guys clean your toys if it's dusty...i mean really2 dusty inside out?

I think polish each part individually is very good habit! regarding layers of top coat, when talk about ab, normally 3 to 4 layers. depends on how good the fundamental paint work is. Sometimes when the base / surface work was very good, i think 2 layer is sufficient to create pretty good effect, a bit risky though.

If u use spray can, since generally it tends to spray thicker than AB, i really dare not say how many layers. just make sure u polish each layer as good as you can. also make sure the details are still there.

ic ic thanks

it depends what kinda level of completion you wanna achieve lor.....

who have Gundam Unicorn ? will the etching decal fall off easily ?

This post has been edited by lehtung: Apr 23 2008, 09:35 PM

if u had problem with decal, but the Mr. Settler to apply decal...

i mean tat kind transparent/ dry transfer decal ... i afraid it will falll off ...
Mr Settler work with tat also ?


another question , the white , green , blue type of decal is referring to the paper tat the decal stick to ?
i'm a super beginner in this ....

This post has been edited by lehtung: Apr 24 2008, 12:53 AM

those are called DRY decal...
those just apply on it, it wont fall off.. only easily scratched if u're not careful
PS: those dun work wiv mr settler

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Apr 24 2008, 12:52 AM

i see ... thank you !

no problem...
just to make sure..
3 types of decals... de jaa vu
Green background - glue type
Blue bg - Water slides
Transparent - Dry type

i see ... i just know tat got so many types of decals .. haha , i only made 2 HG before ....

HG usually contain glue type de.. Dry type i never encountered before....

yeah .. so i didnt realize tat 3 types of decal exist ..

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Added on April 24, 2008, 6:45 pmwhat # of blade are u all using ?
where can i buy the blade ? i wan 45 degree or above 1 ...

This post has been edited by lehtung: Apr 24 2008, 06:45 PM

guys,
isit ok let the paint bottle open for a while?
i mean directly paint from bottle.. close only after some painting..
won't the paint in the bottle getting thicker n dry faster?

hmm... get a design knife which can be bought in KLCC(only place i kno) Ofla brand..
refer to the pinned thread for pictures.

better dun.... it will dry n get harden..

it will get harden...

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Added on April 25, 2008, 12:10 pmthings like paint, putty all will get harden when touches air...
Even Cement also...

This post has been edited by temptation1314: Apr 25 2008, 12:10 PM

Wat about paint storage? Most prolly i'll not be using it for at least 2 months now. How to store to ensure the paint won't dry or anything ar?