Hi all,

When driving non-stop (usually on highway), the Kancil's temperature is about 1/3 or 1/4.

However, when it stops or slows down at traffic lights or at heavy traffic roads, the temperature goes up to half.

If stuck in prolong traffic jams, goes up to almost 2/3, before the "red line" area).

Checked with the workshop - No leaking or loss of coolant. He can't even get the temperature up to half (the car is stationary, I guess need to move the car).

So, just asked the workshop to flush/wash the radiator (told me that 9 holes are blocked), and changed the coolant. Not sure if the 9 blocked holes are the culprit. Changing to a new radiator will cost me about RM270. Is that a fair price? Didn't change.

I noticed that Kancil has only 1 fan. This fan will switch on and off depending on the engine temperature and the some maybe 1 or 2 minutes interval (not sure about this).

I *think* the temperature goes up whenever the fan stops - I guess I can hear the fan is kicking in again during jams and the temperature goes down. And when the fan stops, the temperature goes up again. Is it advisable to switch the fan on non-stop?

Some other threads mentioned termostat - is it possible to tweak Kancil's to lower down the temperature so that the fan kicks in more often at lower temperature?


Thanks for your advices,
Garry

Ecko, so now your fan will turn on all the time? Does it 100% fix the temperature problem (no matter how bad the jam is)?

What is the consequences of this bypassing termostat? Weaker engine? How bad is it?

Any alternative like adjusting termostat to make the fan turn faster/longer?

How much you paid to get the "bypass"?

Thanks,
Garry

Alternation, can you let me know what are the reasons?

And how much it costs to change the hose? There are 2 hoses right?

I really hope that I don't have to tweak the parts, however, I'm trying hard to spend on trying/experimenting with different methods/workshop

Thanks for your advice.

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Added on June 11, 2007, 5:04 pmEcko, wahh.. my Kancil so unlucky become part of the statistics ar?

Could it be that the termostate not working properly, or the fan is too lembik?

Should I send it to P2 service center to sort this out? Are they competent in this issue?

Thanks.

This post has been edited by garry_npm: Jun 11 2007, 05:04 PM

Ecko, thanks for your input. Looks like no choice but let the mechanics do some diagnostics.

SleeplessEyes, I've read elsewhere too that the Kancil's "normal" point is at the middle. However, somehow it's too close for comfort, and the changes (whether going up or down) happen too quickly. I should say sometimes it's rather unpredictable. And that's the scary part.

If the temperature reaches the "danger" line after >45 mins of jam, probably I don't mind - at least I could predict after X mins.. my car would probably overheat. What is happening now is that this issue happens probably within 15 mins.

Feel worried too if I wanna use jam-proned roads like Federal h/w. Actually Federal is ok, at least still got space to stop at emergency lane. Imagine those 1 lane road (maybe construction etc) and car breaks down there

Thanks!!

SleeplessEyes, thanks for your expert explanation on this. Really appreciate this. Yeah, I would definitely prefer to be able to figure out what is the root cause and the culprit and fix that, rather than finding an easy way out and tweak other stuff. Well, bypass looks good, but I hope I don't have to do that

I'll send my car to a different workshop and see what they got to say about this. This time will focus on hose, plastic joints (where are they, I don't see any?) and whatever other connections.

All of you have been very helpful - thanks!!

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Added on June 12, 2007, 9:11 amJimmy, I do notice that when it jams, the temperature rises, and then the fan kicks in, and subsequently the temperature goes down slightly.

However it looks like the fan doesn't turn long enough. It probably turns less than a minute. Then it shuts off. Then the temperature goes up again.

You see, if this keeps happening, eventually it goes beyond the 1/2 mark and 2/3 mark. I just feel that the fan is not turning long enough or probably not fast enough. The car just unable to cope with the "stress"



This post has been edited by garry_npm: Jun 12 2007, 09:11 AM

Sent to 2nd mechanic and he checked - actually nothing wrong with radiator, coolant, cap, hose, termostate, etc.

Now thinking maybe the indicator/temperature gauge itself is faulty. Actually, when the indicator goes 1/2, then up to 2/3, fan kicks in, goes down... all these "movements"... am I suppose to expect the indicator goes up and down "smoothly and very gradually", or is it possible for it to "jump" a few mm (drastically)?

The car's indicator is being checked by the same mechanic again today.

Ecko, how does battery grounding and it being loose affect the indicator? Blur...

Btw, it seems I can't change the individual temperature indicator/needle. Need to change entire panel (including speedometer, mileage gauge, etc). Sigh.. How much should that cost?

Thanks.

Flushing is just taking out the radiator and give it a good washing. Shouldn't cause leaking unless the cleaner drop it/break it/poke a hole to it I think flushing it should clear all the rust and you should use coolant because it does contain some anti-rust ingredient.

I was quoted about RM270 for a new radiator. Not sure if that's a fair price. I'll assume this is original Kancil radiator.

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Added on June 14, 2007, 10:00 amWahlao.. blocked so many holes ar? For me out of so many holes, only 7 holes were blocked. Yeah, they will need to poke it or scratch it to remove the rust.

Think the valve you mentioned here is the termostat?

This post has been edited by garry_npm: Jun 14 2007, 10:00 AM

Hi all,

I've driven my car for a few days now and the problem of the temperature going up and down has gone

I think I missed out an important info on my original problem (see below). When I mentioned the temperature moves up/down, I didn't mean it went up gradually/gracefully/slowly. The temperature gauge needle actually went up/down quite fast/drastically/jumpy about few mm. I wish I had recorded that and put it in YouTube for you guys to see.

Anyway, NO BYPASS, no fixing/changing of radiator and fan. Somehow, there were 2 problems:
1. The temperature gauge moving too fast, which is not suppose to happen (according to mechanic). Change a device called "Thermo Switch" - RM18.00. After that, the gauge behaved properly - movement is now gradually, although temperature still go up.
2. To fix this temperature going up, he changed something called "Fan Switch" - RM45.00.

Now everything kaotim. Labor charged me RM45.00 (actually took a few days to diagnose the problem and test driving).

Thanks. Hopefully it does

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Added on June 25, 2007, 2:01 amErrrm.. don't think so.


This post has been edited by garry_npm: Jun 25 2007, 02:01 AM