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> Several problems with car, Nissan Sentra B14 (22 years old)

SilenTz_1993
post Dec 3 2018, 10:53 PM, updated 2 months ago

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Hello all sifus!

Trying to troubleshoot my own car right now... has a few problems here and there. Would love to get some tips on where and what to look at! Driving a Nissan Sentra B14 myself here.

Oil change, radiator water, brake fluid etc. I do my best to change/top them up when needed. A few problems below that I can't really figure out:

1. [TBD] When accelerating, its almost as if there is a second "motor" that gives a somewhat high pitched whirring noise - the harder I press the pedal the louder the noise gets. However, the whirring noise goes off once the car is is approx 50km/h (I think)
Update: Still trying to find what bearing is making this noise. confused.gif


2. [Fixed] Idling is somewhat rough, feels like my engine's RPM is very high (RPM meter rosak liao btw sweat.gif). Tried to adjust the idle speed but once its idling nicely and not very loudly, my engine feels like it's close to stalling every now and then.
Update: Rough idling fixed after I cleaned my engine using Seafoam (RM50+, Ikano Ace Hardware) + Changed my PCV hoses to remove the vacuum pinch


3. [TBD] I've topped up my brake fluid recently (warning lights came on) but I wonder if it's a normal occurrence or should I be worried and send my car to a mechanic to check my brake system out?
Update: Brake fluid not leaking d somehow. Not sure what to do with this rclxub.gif


4. [90% Fixed] I can smell gas when my gas tank is filled to max (eg. auto pump still stop). Once its down about 5L-ish I don't smell it anymore. My mechanic couldn't find anything on the gas tank he said. Any ideas?
Update: Fuel filter to fuel rail line broke, so changed filter + fuel line. Gas small is mostly gone, still have a bit so suspect that gas line also fractured somewhere between fuel filter - fuel pump.


Appreciate any input and insights.

Thank you! biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by SilenTz_1993: Dec 28 2018, 02:55 PM
ahchun
post Dec 3 2018, 11:04 PM

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QUOTE(SilenTz_1993 @ Dec 3 2018, 10:53 PM)
Hello all sifus!

Trying to troubleshoot my own car right now... has a few problems here and there. Would love to get some tips on where and what to look at! Driving a Nissan Sentra B14 myself here.

Oil change, radiator water, brake fluid etc. I do my best to change/top them up when needed.

A few problems below that I can't really figure out:

1. When accelerating, its almost as if there is a second "motor" that gives a somewhat high pitched whirring noise - the harder I press the pedal the louder the noise gets. However, the whirring noise goes off once the car is is approx 50km/h (I think)
2. Idling is somewhat rough, feels like my engine's RPM is very high (RPM meter rosak liao btw  sweat.gif). Tried to adjust the idle speed but once its idling nicely and not very loudly, my engine feels like it's close to stalling every now and then.
3. I've topped up my brake fluid recently (warning lights came on) but I wonder if it's a normal occurrence or should I be worried and send my car to a mechanic to check my brake system out?

Appreciate any input and insights.

Thank you!  biggrin.gif
*
1. possible of gear box or sound system. turn of ur sound system if still got may want to check ur gearbox
2/ not really sure this one
3. NOT NORMAL. better check. brake fluid not suppose to reduce till red light la unless leak somewhere.
SilenTz_1993
post Dec 3 2018, 11:49 PM

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QUOTE(ahchun @ Dec 3 2018, 11:04 PM)
1. possible of gear box or sound system. turn of ur sound system if still got may want to check ur gearbox
2/ not really sure this one
3. NOT NORMAL. better check. brake fluid not suppose to reduce till red light la unless leak somewhere.
*
1. I do listen to it with AC and sound system both off. Is there a possibility for any of my belts to be faulty somehow? (Looked and I think they seem ok)
2. No worries, thanks for chipping in!
3. Alright.. thanks for the heads up. Will get it checked soon!
SilenTz_1993
post Dec 7 2018, 05:37 PM

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Sorry if this is not allowed.. just wanted to bump my thread up to see if I can get any additional feedback or not. Changed my spark plugs (old ones way past their mileage) but doesn't seem to have fixed the rough idling issue.. haha

Thanks!
cempedaklife
post Dec 7 2018, 08:25 PM

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How old is your car and what mileage? Sorry not familiar with your model.

Advisable to clean your throttle body. Mine 100km 7 years, idle a bit rough. Clean it and no such issue anymore. You will see many forum people recommend it as well.

This post has been edited by cempedaklife: Dec 7 2018, 08:27 PM
SilenTz_1993
post Dec 8 2018, 01:00 AM

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QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Dec 7 2018, 08:25 PM)
How old is your car and what mileage? Sorry not familiar with your model.

Advisable to clean your throttle body. Mine 100km 7 years, idle a bit rough. Clean it and no such issue anymore. You will see many forum people recommend it as well.
*
Hey buddy! Its a Nissan Sentra B14 that is 22 years old, with ~530k mileage.

How would you go about cleaning the throttle body? I've seen reviews about this product Seafoam that seems to work pretty well. biggrin.gif
cempedaklife
post Dec 8 2018, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(SilenTz_1993 @ Dec 8 2018, 01:00 AM)
Hey buddy! Its a Nissan Sentra B14 that is 22 years old, with ~530k mileage.

How would you go about cleaning the throttle body? I've seen reviews about this product Seafoam that seems to work pretty well.  biggrin.gif
*
Some workshop does it for you. And like you said. Seafoam works as well. Though in workshop they dontvl exactly use that.
SilenTz_1993
post Dec 8 2018, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Dec 8 2018, 01:21 AM)
Some workshop does it for you. And like you said. Seafoam works as well. Though in workshop they dontvl exactly use that.
*
Hmm okay, in your experience how much can I expect it to cost for throttle body cleaning at a workshop?

And do you know where I can find Seafoam? I couldn't find the throttle body cleaning one in Ace Hardware @ Ikano.

Cheers biggrin.gif
rcracer
post Dec 8 2018, 11:12 AM

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QUOTE(SilenTz_1993 @ Dec 3 2018, 10:53 PM)
Hello all sifus!

Trying to troubleshoot my own car right now... has a few problems here and there. Would love to get some tips on where and what to look at! Driving a Nissan Sentra B14 myself here.

Oil change, radiator water, brake fluid etc. I do my best to change/top them up when needed.

A few problems below that I can't really figure out:

1. When accelerating, its almost as if there is a second "motor" that gives a somewhat high pitched whirring noise - the harder I press the pedal the louder the noise gets. However, the whirring noise goes off once the car is is approx 50km/h (I think)
2. Idling is somewhat rough, feels like my engine's RPM is very high (RPM meter rosak liao btw  sweat.gif). Tried to adjust the idle speed but once its idling nicely and not very loudly, my engine feels like it's close to stalling every now and then.
3. I've topped up my brake fluid recently (warning lights came on) but I wonder if it's a normal occurrence or should I be worried and send my car to a mechanic to check my brake system out?
4. I can smell gas when my gas tank is filled to max (eg. auto pump still stop). Once its down about 5L-ish I don't smell it anymore. My mechanic couldn't find anything on the gas tank he said. Any ideas?

Appreciate any input and insights.

Thank you!  biggrin.gif
*
1. Some bearing is about to die , common bearing are wheel bearing , belt tensioner bearing, alternator bearing, air cond compressor bearing. Bearings always have one definitive character, the higher the rpm the louder or the faster the louder.

2. Find factory setting and reset and fix rpm meter. Nothing can be adjusted blind is a total waste of time. Or is auto choke system clogged

3. Definitely leak and need more investigation

4. Gas tanks vent to air
cempedaklife
post Dec 8 2018, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(SilenTz_1993 @ Dec 8 2018, 11:06 AM)
Hmm okay, in your experience how much can I expect it to cost for throttle body cleaning at a workshop?

And do you know where I can find Seafoam? I couldn't find the throttle body cleaning one in Ace Hardware @ Ikano.

Cheers  biggrin.gif
*
80rm throttle cleaning.
60rm for machine relearning.
Done together.
But somehow they just charged me rm120 for both.
There is 2 seafoam. You need thw spray one.
I can't find the spray in ace publika. But spray can be found in ace taman melawati setapak.


Deja Vu
post Dec 8 2018, 01:35 PM

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QUOTE(SilenTz_1993 @ Dec 3 2018, 10:53 PM)
Hello all sifus!

Trying to troubleshoot my own car right now... has a few problems here and there. Would love to get some tips on where and what to look at! Driving a Nissan Sentra B14 myself here.

Oil change, radiator water, brake fluid etc. I do my best to change/top them up when needed.

A few problems below that I can't really figure out:

1. When accelerating, its almost as if there is a second "motor" that gives a somewhat high pitched whirring noise - the harder I press the pedal the louder the noise gets. However, the whirring noise goes off once the car is is approx 50km/h (I think)
2. Idling is somewhat rough, feels like my engine's RPM is very high (RPM meter rosak liao btw  sweat.gif). Tried to adjust the idle speed but once its idling nicely and not very loudly, my engine feels like it's close to stalling every now and then.
3. I've topped up my brake fluid recently (warning lights came on) but I wonder if it's a normal occurrence or should I be worried and send my car to a mechanic to check my brake system out?
4. I can smell gas when my gas tank is filled to max (eg. auto pump still stop). Once its down about 5L-ish I don't smell it anymore. My mechanic couldn't find anything on the gas tank he said. Any ideas?

Appreciate any input and insights.

Thank you!  biggrin.gif
*
1. Suspecting 1 or more bearings are worn. Try to listen if it's a wheel bearing (and on which wheel) or if it's coming from the gearbox.

2. My dad has a Ad Resort with a carb-fed GA16DS and no valve timing control mechanism unlike yours. It previously had very low idling especially when the compressor starts, and was diagnosed with a faulty IACV. Yours could be the same. But fix that tachometer 1st as itβ€˜ll help in the tuning process and I believe it's failure is common especially for B14s. By the way, it's always better to tune when the engine is at running temperature/hot, and based in your mileage it's also a good time to have the throttle body cleaned before tuning.

3. There are 2 main reasons for low brake fluid levels, a leaking system or worn brake pads/shoes where the fluid us pushed further in to press the pads.

4. Check the hoses leading to the evap canister and the canister itself.
SilenTz_1993
post Dec 9 2018, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(rcracer @ Dec 8 2018, 11:12 AM)
1. Some bearing is about to die , common bearing are wheel bearing , belt tensioner bearing, alternator bearing, air cond compressor bearing. Bearings always have one definitive character, the higher the rpm the louder or the faster the louder.

2. Find factory setting and reset and fix rpm meter. Nothing can be adjusted blind is a total waste of time. Or is auto choke system clogged

3. Definitely leak and need more investigation

4. Gas tanks vent to air
*
1. Will try and listen to it.

2. RPM meter.. should go to accessory shop or normal repair shops?

3. Yes found the leak source already earlier this morning. Thank you! smile.gif

4. Found the leak too. My fuel line has a small fracture that leaks petrol

biggrin.gif


QUOTE(cempedaklife @ Dec 8 2018, 11:37 AM)
80rm throttle cleaning.
60rm for machine relearning.
Done together.
But somehow they just charged me rm120 for both.
There is 2 seafoam. You need thw spray one.
I can't find the spray in ace publika. But spray can be found in ace taman melawati setapak.
*
I see. Might bring my car to a workshop soon.

I managed to find Seafoam @ Ikano Ace Hardware yesterday haha. Seems like real new stock. But for the life of me i CANNOT get the air intake pipes to open up to insert the pipe in. Its so rigid.. Maybe the rubber all too old already sweat.gif


QUOTE(Deja Vu @ Dec 8 2018, 01:35 PM)
1. Suspecting 1 or more bearings are worn. Try to listen if it's a wheel bearing (and on which wheel) or if it's coming from the gearbox.

2. My dad has a Ad Resort with a carb-fed GA16DS and no valve timing control mechanism unlike yours. It previously had very low idling especially when the compressor starts, and was diagnosed with a faulty IACV. Yours could be the same. But fix that tachometer 1st as itβ€˜ll help in the tuning process and I believe it's failure is common especially for B14s. By the way, it's always better to tune when the engine is at running temperature/hot, and based in your mileage it's also a good time to have the throttle body cleaned before tuning.

3. There are 2 main reasons for low brake fluid levels, a leaking system or worn brake pads/shoes where the fluid us pushed further in to press the pads.

4. Check the hoses leading to the evap canister and the canister itself.
*
1. Yep will try and listen!

2. Noted. For the Tachometer, any recommended place to get it fixed?

3. Brake pads quite new still, found some soiled parts on my brake lines.. suspect leaking is there. Will investigate further soon!

4. Canister = Gas Tank? Anyway I found a leak in my gas line from filter to fuel injector - changed the tubing now have to see if that's the source.



Anyway, I really appreciate all the responses guys. Thank you! biggrin.gif
SilenTz_1993
post Dec 11 2018, 03:52 PM

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Got my fuel filter changed at a shop nearby, but I can't help but feel the direction seems wrong? The IN side shown in the image below goes to the fuel injectors. Should the filter have been installed the other way around? confused.gif sweat.gif

EDIT: The fuel filter doesn't have the Flow Arrow thing on it either, checked earlier.

user posted image

This post has been edited by SilenTz_1993: Dec 11 2018, 03:56 PM
Samboi
post Dec 21 2018, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(SilenTz_1993 @ Dec 11 2018, 03:52 PM)
Got my fuel filter changed at a shop nearby, but I can't help but feel the direction seems wrong? The IN side shown in the image below goes to the fuel injectors. Should the filter have been installed the other way around?  confused.gif  sweat.gif

EDIT: The fuel filter doesn't have the Flow Arrow thing on it either, checked earlier.

user posted image
*
Fuel filter is the right direction. The hose for it is a pain to get on and off.... I need to replace my hose soon. I Think i Might have a petrol leak somewhere as well, my gas gauge drops significantly when I go uphill but it doesn't level back out when i'm on flat land again. cant see any leaks, but that could be because the fuel is evaporating before i get a chance to see where the smell is coming from.

1. as for this, it sounds like a bearing issue. Maybe idle pulley or some other moving part on the belt.

2. The idle issue on mine I have narrowed down to either the Idle Air Control Valve, or the fact that my battery is too small for my car and makes the alternator work more. I'm only stalling when my Aircon is on full blast and i push in the clutch though

the last two you said you sorted already tongue.gif

Seafoam doesn't do enough cleaning to justify the price. maybe try taking off your intake and clean the throttle body with some carb/throttle body cleaner, its like 5 or 6 RM at DIY. then remove the two screws on the IACV and clean that out carefully with the spray. and then the MAF can clean also. Then let everything dry and see if it helps.



SilenTz_1993
post Dec 23 2018, 03:20 PM

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QUOTE(Samboi @ Dec 21 2018, 05:43 PM)
Fuel filter is the right direction. The hose for it is a pain to get on and off.... I need to replace my hose soon. I Think i Might have a petrol leak somewhere as well, my gas gauge drops significantly when I go uphill but it doesn't level back out when i'm on flat land again. cant see any leaks, but that could be because the fuel is evaporating before i get a chance to see where the smell is coming from.

1. as for this, it sounds like a bearing issue. Maybe idle pulley or some other moving part on the belt.

2. The idle issue on mine I have narrowed down to either the Idle Air Control Valve, or the fact that my battery is too small for my car and makes the alternator work more. I'm only stalling when my Aircon is on full blast and i push in the clutch though

the last two you said you sorted already tongue.gif

Seafoam doesn't do enough cleaning to justify the price. maybe try taking off your intake and clean the throttle body with some carb/throttle body cleaner, its like 5 or 6 RM at DIY. then remove the two screws on the IACV and clean that out carefully with the spray. and then the MAF can clean also. Then let everything dry and see if it helps.
*
1. Yeah probably bearing, but I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from. rclxub.gif

2. For me, Seafoam did a good enough job - now my idling is quiet and there's little to no hiccups already when driving/stopping at lights. Overall the car feels smoother too so I'll probably keep driving for a bit more and see if I need to do anything else to it.

3. For the Fuel Filter - really? It didn't make sense to me that the "IN" side is facing upwards. IN = into engine? Haha
Samboi
post Dec 23 2018, 08:57 PM

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QUOTE(SilenTz_1993 @ Dec 23 2018, 03:20 PM)
1. Yeah probably bearing, but I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from.  rclxub.gif

2. For me, Seafoam did a good enough job - now my idling is quiet and there's little to no hiccups already when driving/stopping at lights. Overall the car feels smoother too so I'll probably keep driving for a bit more and see if I need to do anything else to it.

3. For the Fuel Filter - really? It didn't make sense to me that the "IN" side is facing upwards. IN = into engine? Haha
*
When i put mine in i just followed back the original πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ you should have seen the black sludge that came out of it i think the "IN" more means where the fuel is coming from. If you forget to release the pressure before hand youll see where the fuel shoots out from.

Mine has been recently making a bearing noise too, im not sure if its from the pulleys, the trans or the wheel. Im purplexed because the sound is more of a constant and doesnt go up or down with speed of the engine.

I need to find time to play with it and some money to buy tools and parts. I know i need to settle the suspension and steering rack sometime. All the boots are toast. And i can feel a rattle in the steering wheel when i hit bumps. Not sure if i wanna drop so much into it though because repairs are about half the cost that i paid for the car now.
SilenTz_1993
post Dec 23 2018, 10:10 PM

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QUOTE(Samboi @ Dec 23 2018, 08:57 PM)
When i put mine in i just followed back the original πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ you should have seen the black sludge that came out of it i think the "IN" more means where the fuel is coming from. If you forget to release the pressure before hand youll see where the fuel shoots out from.

Mine has been recently making a bearing noise too, im not sure if its from the pulleys, the trans or the wheel. Im purplexed because the sound is more of a constant and doesnt go up or down with speed of the engine.

I need to find time to play with it and some money to buy tools and parts. I know i need to settle the suspension and steering rack sometime. All the boots are toast. And i can feel a rattle in the steering wheel when i hit bumps. Not sure if i wanna drop so much into it though because repairs are about half the cost that i paid for the car now.
*
Hmm... okay. If I follow the original arrangement (by shape, my original one doesn't have the words "IN") then yes, the filter should be installed as shown in the picture.

However, I've already inverted the filter to have the "IN" side pointed at the fuel tank hose tongue.gif seems to be working fine so far.

I feel you. So many odd noises coming out here and there I don't even know anymore rclxub.gif biggrin.gif But its okay, so far so good and car still running fine so I'll just investigate slowly. Don't wanna fix what isn't broken in the car hahaha
Samboi
post Dec 24 2018, 12:57 PM

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QUOTE(SilenTz_1993 @ Dec 23 2018, 10:10 PM)
Hmm... okay. If I follow the original arrangement (by shape, my original one doesn't have the words "IN") then yes, the filter should be installed as shown in the picture.

However, I've already inverted the filter to have the "IN" side pointed at the fuel tank hose  tongue.gif seems to be working fine so far.

I feel you. So many odd noises coming out here and there I don't even know anymore  rclxub.gif  biggrin.gif  But its okay, so far so good and car still running fine so I'll just investigate slowly. Don't wanna fix what isn't broken in the car hahaha
*
thats good that it's still running, I'm starting to not want to fix anything until its broken.... but this is mostly due to part pricing and availability for b14s. need to figure out a parts interchange for everything. Like suspension and brakes and all that jazz.

its a bit ridiculous when b15 suspension is 1/2 the price of b14 for adjustables. and that brake pads cost close to 10x more for b14 than b15.

my most urgent fix i need to do is the horn. it only works when i push in the button at a certain angle. I think I can fix this as soon as I can get a decent soldering iron.
System Error Message
post Dec 24 2018, 02:47 PM

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congrats on keeping your car running for 22 years hopefully you'll get your issue fixed.
A lot of japanese cars from the 90s will still keep going with little maintenance.

When you buy brakes, the forward brakes need to be stronger than rear, this gives more stable braking. Its an old practice to improve braking, but rear brake bias lets you corner while braking.

Sure the maintenance seems like a lot, but may be way cheaper than buying a new car. Add up all the costs and see.
System Error Message
post Dec 24 2018, 02:47 PM

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congrats on keeping your car running for 22 years hopefully you'll get your issue fixed.
A lot of japanese cars from the 90s will still keep going with little maintenance.

When you buy brakes, the forward brakes need to be stronger than rear, this gives more stable braking. Its an old practice to improve braking, but rear brake bias lets you corner while braking.

Sure the maintenance seems like a lot, but may be way cheaper than buying a new car. Add up all the costs and see.

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